Alright guys, Here is my situation

Ive Just recently purchased a 1999 SS M6

Mods-

Ported MAF

SLP longtubes

SLP Y

Cant remember what catback

373's eaton posi

SLP Lid

Pretty sure the TB is still stock

I swear its got more but my mind is blank at the moment

Car dynoed at 351RWHP in Vegas. I live in utah so im not expecting to see the same result with my elevation about 4000ft higher

now,

I have tried to do as much research as I can for a cam I can safely use on with my stock heads and still have a decent DD and be easy on my valvetrain.

I know its old technology but the LS1 hot cam seems to be alright but of coarse everyone on here says its not worth using if your going to pull your car apart for it..

Ive also considered something like tr220 114 lsa

any thoughts on this or any other cams that would fit the bill?

Like i stated before. My main concerns are-

Not a crazy idle (I want to be able to use my A/C) haha but some lope would be nice.

im hoping to get atleast 40 more RWHP or else its not worth the effort.

I just dont need anything crazy since its a DD so please refrain from saying go big or go home..

Im on a budget so the hotcam seemed good for that.

I need something that will work well with stock heads..

Help me out here guys! i really appreciate any feedback!

 

Also remembered

Short shift, ZR1 replica wheels and BFG gforce KDW.

Not that any of those matter

 

talk to texas speed and performance. they told me tourquer v2 cam with a good sound and drivability

 

For good sound and driveability, I suggest the GM ASA cam. It uses ls6 valve springs and has a very choppy idle. However, it is easy to tune so using ac will not be a problem.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...m-asa-cam.html

For reference.

 

And with what I have seen, 400 at the wheels should not be a problem.

 

gonna be staying with the 373's? i think youd be happy with a 219/226 .607/.605 114+3

 

why 373 with m6? i went with 4.11s love it

 

With the altitude being that high, id save my money for boost.

 

This is what I would suggest.
218/230 .605/.604 112+3 LSA
That is 2* positive overlap so noticeable rumble but DD with a professional tune.
Power range from 1800>6300rpm with a LS6 intake.

If you like it let me know I'll give the specs to cut it.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys! I went with 3.73 because i had 4.11 in a trans am and thought it was a little too low. I felt that first gear was totally worthless, the rpms would only drop a about 800 rpm's between shifts and i didnt feel like i was utilizing any torque with that ratio only the power i made up top. and since its a dd i wanted to still get good mileage on the freeway.

I didnt know that the ASA cam used the ls6 springs thats good info though. would i see better power with the asa cam? also I called comp and they said that if im going with a cam that has less than .600 then i dont need to change out my pushrods. is that the case? I want to be able to get a little more rpm range so i figured it would be a good idea. the reason i dont want to go higher than .600 is because I dont want to be changing my springs every so often. I want this project to be one and done as this will probably be the last thing i do to this car for a long time. What is a decent rwhp number for the ASA cam? Ive seen about 380 with the hot cam

 

Jarren, if you want to change cam and forget about it, then don't. There is no such thing. Springs will have to be maintained, meaning pulled off and pressure tested at least every 20 k miles or so (no matter what magic springs you put on). It is part of modifying internals and should be expected.
40rwhp from a cam swap is not easy task and has to be done properly. Putting the cheapest deal out there is not the right approach. IMO focus on the main criteria desired from a cam and study its consequences. changing a cam is not a (I want this and that) deal. With a cam you always have to compromise on something. There is no i can do it all cam. The thing you mentioned about not going over .600 to not change pushrods is entirely false. Once you change the rate of the cam lobe, you'll need stiffer pushrods.

 

224r would be a good choice IMO. And Z is right about maintenance intervals etc.

 

Your wants are exactly what a good % of people on here want. Just a fun car that they can toy around on the street with. Hardly ever see the track. Maybe just wanting to make 400rwhp stock heads.. even though you will want more...

Go with the good ol proven 224/224 cam.. Tough to beat that cam. It has proven itself for years. A 224/224 cam will fit your needs.

 

How did you come up with that?

 

looked like a good street cam on the valve events calculator, should give a little little lope but nothing crazy. Wont have to rev it much at all to help with the 373's.

i personally would run it on a 114+1 or 115+2.. but i like to RPM the little cams

 

I would like an early IVO for a cam like this, while sticking the IVC out there later than you have it, but like you said you would prefer it to be on a 113icl to bring the IVC out later.

Just keeping you on your toes.

 

Ok well thats not alarming news then since I was going to change out pushrods anyway for more reliability. Im not trying to say I need a cam that will do it all, is 40rwhp too much to expect from the cams i have listed and also the ones others have suggested? from what i have read on other threads i thought 40rwhp wouldnt be too difficult to attain, I actually have looked at the 224 cam as well and thought it might be a good pick. I think i want something with about 114lsa cause ive heard it gets pretty gassy around 112. My next concern is tuneability. Ive read threads where people say that the hotcam is really easy to tune and others that say it isnt. would there be any difference in the ability to tune the 224, hotcam, or asa? which out of these three would be my best option? and also could i still use LS6 springs with the 224? I dont remember the specs on it. Sorry for so many questions but this is my first cam swap, which was probably obvious

 

I wouldn't use LS6 springs on any of those.

Is there a particular reason why you want to use LS6 springs?

 

If it were my car and I was looking to do cam only for DD, I'd go with a 224/228 on a 114, advanced 2 or 3 degrees, with milder lobes, about a 0.570 lift. I'm not endorsing any particular "Brand" here, just somthing close to those specs, many vendors have cams in this size range. Without porting the heads your won't gain much for flow above that lift, and it is just making it harder on your springs. For a mild cam like that I'd go with aftermarket single beehive springs like the PSI 1511, in this case that is my brand of preference. These will have a good long maintainance interval. Replace your valve seals as well, while this is apart, OEM ones are fine. You will want new hardened pushrods too, I'd recommend measuring for them, not just putting 7.40s in and bolting down the rocker arms. I'd also consider a trunion upgrade on the rockers while they are apart, a good many of us have had stock needle bearings in our oil pans. This is not necessary, but a good plan based upon my personal experience. I'd estimate, based upon computer engine simulation, that this should get you close to the 40 rwhp your looking for. This will require a retune to make the car run as it should.

I'm not a professional LS engine guy here like some of the others, for example Martin and Z, who have way more experience at this than I do. So take my opinion and consider it against others, ymmv. I do have an engineering degree and have assembled a few engines in my day, also I've done a little studying of ic engine thermodynamics and valve timing events. Everyone here is going to have a slightly different personal opinion, and they are all about correct, unless somone recommends you a radical reverse split, or a donkey sized cam.

Good luck with your swap!