How much should I expect to pay for a basic LS1 shortblock rebuild?
How much should I expect to pay for a basic LS1 shortblock rebuild? Assuming I can re-use my existing components (crank, pistons, rods), how much should I expect for a basic OEM quality re-build? Just curious so I have a frame of reference for the quotes I'm getting.
So far one place has told me "Around $2000. If you need pistons figure $700-$800 more". Waiting to hear back from two other places before I decide what to do.
Thanks,
Brian
So far one place has told me "Around $2000. If you need pistons figure $700-$800 more". Waiting to hear back from two other places before I decide what to do.
Thanks,
Brian
I honestly would go ahead and do forged rods and pistons.
You may never need the power capabilities they offer, but the re-sale of your car with a built motor, and knowing you did it the first time it was apart will save you in the long run and be nearly the same price.
You may never need the power capabilities they offer, but the re-sale of your car with a built motor, and knowing you did it the first time it was apart will save you in the long run and be nearly the same price.
Check out Thompson Motorsports. They're a sponsor on here, they send out short blocks with FRESH rotating assemblies for as low as $1799! I just got an LM4 short block with fresh pistons, crank and bearings for that price. Now I can build it at leisure and pull the old small block in my B4C when I'm ready 
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 4
how do you do a rebuild of a short block using the original pistons.if you hone it you will need new pistons and rings.the stock rods need the big end resized.I am looking at getting a short block from schwanke also.
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If the cylinders and pistons are still within spec technically a light hone and new rings will work. I wouldnt do it with a performance motor unless I was on a really tight budget.
What's the deal with TMS's prices? I see a nice aluminum LS1/6 on eBay for $1799 vs. the basic Texas Speed stuff for $3300 on the low end.
I'm curious where I should spend my money? I don't need anything fancy just durable. The car will see 6600-6800 rpm max, no boost, no nitrous, just lots of extended use. Any need to use forged rods/pistons? Any need to use fancy bearings or are the basic durabond or clevites fine? Where do coated bearings show an advantage? Power production or longevity?
I figure if an OEM 119k motor did as well as it did I just need something about as good as that or a bit better. I don't need something exotic. I'm cheap not poor. I.e. I'll spend the right amount of money to do the job correctly the first time, but I have no desire to waste money. Money = tires and entry fees.
I'm curious where I should spend my money? I don't need anything fancy just durable. The car will see 6600-6800 rpm max, no boost, no nitrous, just lots of extended use. Any need to use forged rods/pistons? Any need to use fancy bearings or are the basic durabond or clevites fine? Where do coated bearings show an advantage? Power production or longevity?
I figure if an OEM 119k motor did as well as it did I just need something about as good as that or a bit better. I don't need something exotic. I'm cheap not poor. I.e. I'll spend the right amount of money to do the job correctly the first time, but I have no desire to waste money. Money = tires and entry fees.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
What's the deal with TMS's prices? I see a nice aluminum LS1/6 on eBay for $1799 vs. the basic Texas Speed stuff for $3300 on the low end.
I'm curious where I should spend my money? I don't need anything fancy just durable. The car will see 6600-6800 rpm max, no boost, no nitrous, just lots of extended use. Any need to use forged rods/pistons? Any need to use fancy bearings or are the basic durabond or clevites fine? Where do coated bearings show an advantage? Power production or longevity?
I figure if an OEM 119k motor did as well as it did I just need something about as good as that or a bit better. I don't need something exotic. I'm cheap not poor. I.e. I'll spend the right amount of money to do the job correctly the first time, but I have no desire to waste money. Money = tires and entry fees.
I'm curious where I should spend my money? I don't need anything fancy just durable. The car will see 6600-6800 rpm max, no boost, no nitrous, just lots of extended use. Any need to use forged rods/pistons? Any need to use fancy bearings or are the basic durabond or clevites fine? Where do coated bearings show an advantage? Power production or longevity?
I figure if an OEM 119k motor did as well as it did I just need something about as good as that or a bit better. I don't need something exotic. I'm cheap not poor. I.e. I'll spend the right amount of money to do the job correctly the first time, but I have no desire to waste money. Money = tires and entry fees.
1- Ask for quotes in writing and Itemized part numbers used
2- Have block blueprinted
3- Compare quotes then make a decision who to go with.
Cheapest is not usually the best. Build method and attention to details pays off at the long run.
When I get a shortblock, I usually try to have cam installed (and degreed at desired ICL).
Do research by talking to shops.
1- Ask for quotes in writing and Itemized part numbers used
2- Have block blueprinted
3- Compare quotes then make a decision who to go with.
Cheapest is not usually the best. Build method and attention to details pays off at the long run.
When I get a shortblock, I usually try to have cam installed (and degreed at desired ICL).
1- Ask for quotes in writing and Itemized part numbers used
2- Have block blueprinted
3- Compare quotes then make a decision who to go with.
Cheapest is not usually the best. Build method and attention to details pays off at the long run.
When I get a shortblock, I usually try to have cam installed (and degreed at desired ICL).
Yes... I understand how to research a build
I have quotes coming back from a few shops.My main question is what makes a TMS short-block $1799 vs. an entry level texas sepeed on $3000+? I see that the basic TMS one is a bored-over 5.3 with refurbished crank and rods and some basic new pistons.
I'm guess that not all shops "blueprint" a block? What's involved in a basic rebuild vs. a bluebrint? I would assume they have to deck the block, machine the piston bores and cam bores no matter what right? I'm looking to be able to compare apples to apples.
I'm running a stock 2001 Z06 cam and a stock timing set with a LS2 chain so it can only be installed "dot to dot". I can only make around 365 rwhp max for the class I race in (power-to-weight class) so every last bit of power isn't important. Durability is.
Yes... I understand how to research a build I have quotes coming back from a few shops.
My main question is what makes a TMS short-block $1799 vs. an entry level texas sepeed on $3000+? I see that the basic TMS one is a bored-over 5.3 with refurbished crank and rods and some basic new pistons.
I'm guess that not all shops "blueprint" a block? What's involved in a basic rebuild vs. a bluebrint? I would assume they have to deck the block, machine the piston bores and cam bores no matter what right? I'm looking to be able to compare apples to apples.
Yes... I understand how to research a build
I have quotes coming back from a few shops.My main question is what makes a TMS short-block $1799 vs. an entry level texas sepeed on $3000+? I see that the basic TMS one is a bored-over 5.3 with refurbished crank and rods and some basic new pistons.
I'm guess that not all shops "blueprint" a block? What's involved in a basic rebuild vs. a bluebrint? I would assume they have to deck the block, machine the piston bores and cam bores no matter what right? I'm looking to be able to compare apples to apples.
I asked about blueprinting when I picked it up, just out of curiosity... I believe he said the service was $250. Nice guy, he was surprised to see me pick it up with a Mazda 3 hatchback 
I can't say what would cause TSP to charge $3000+ while a TMS is $1799. Probably the same thing that makes certain shops in my area quote $2000 for a rebuild of an LS1 with ME providing all the parts without a warranty while LME would rebuild it for $1800 with a warranty...
P.S. TMS was charging $1999 for an LS2 version in aluminum a couple months ago, now it's up substantially. They may have figured out their prices are VERY competitive
Looks like it's used vs. new parts. TSP's cheapest 346 shortblock uses a new block, new crank, and forged rods/pistons. Whereas TMS's $1799 setup uses a rebuilt bore-over 5.3 block, used crank, used rods, and new pistons. Makes sense. Now I have to determine what will work for my intended use.
Do research by talking to shops.
1- Ask for quotes in writing and Itemized part numbers used
2- Have block blueprinted
3- Compare quotes then make a decision who to go with.
Cheapest is not usually the best. Build method and attention to details pays off at the long run.
When I get a shortblock, I usually try to have cam installed (and degreed at desired ICL).
1- Ask for quotes in writing and Itemized part numbers used
2- Have block blueprinted
3- Compare quotes then make a decision who to go with.
Cheapest is not usually the best. Build method and attention to details pays off at the long run.
When I get a shortblock, I usually try to have cam installed (and degreed at desired ICL).
Good luck.
We sell our motors with a 1 year warranty that will cover the motor against any defects or workmanship issues. We take a large amount of pride in our work and especially in customer service. If you have any questions on any of our motors please do feel free to call us so we can find your best match.
Also thank you for your business, Enjoy your TMS 346 and let us know how it works in your build. I hope it made it home ok in the Mazda haha. It was a little surprising to see it leave that way.
Thanks for all the feedback. At this point I'm leaning toward having a local shop rebuild my existing equipment. The price is a wash when you take freight and crating out of the equation.
I was in the same boat as you. Ended up going with Billy Briggs at Motor City Speed. I called him with the same story as you: Looking for a budget rebuild. He took me under his wing and thought it would be nice to get back to the basics for once. He ended up talking me into forged rods and forged pistons with relief cuts already in them. Of course, he didn't twist my arm and he made ZERO bucks off the parts because he let me buy them elsewhere.
HAPPY as can be that I went with the relief cut pistons. Never have to worry about any cam I'll ever run.
Yes, the parts cost extra money. But in the end, it was money WELL spent. If I remember right it was $300 for the Scat rods and ARP bolts, and I think around $500 for the Diamond Pistons. Makes me feel a lot more comfy knowing that stuff is in there.
and he made ZERO bucks off the parts because he let me buy them elsewhere. HAPPY as can be that I went with the relief cut pistons. Never have to worry about any cam I'll ever run.
Yes, the parts cost extra money. But in the end, it was money WELL spent. If I remember right it was $300 for the Scat rods and ARP bolts, and I think around $500 for the Diamond Pistons. Makes me feel a lot more comfy knowing that stuff is in there.