What cam to choose in a stock LS1?
10-02-2012, 05:05 AM
#1
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What cam to choose in a stock LS1? Hi guys
I'm really new to LS1 engines (and to this forum :-) )
Just bought a 70 Chevelle with a 98 Camaro SS LS1 and a 4L60E tagging along
If i wanted to get a little more hp out of the engine, what cam would be a good choice?
The engine is all stock exept from new dougs headers.
What HP can i expect to get with just a cam change?
Magnus
I'm really new to LS1 engines (and to this forum :-) )
Just bought a 70 Chevelle with a 98 Camaro SS LS1 and a 4L60E tagging along
If i wanted to get a little more hp out of the engine, what cam would be a good choice?
The engine is all stock exept from new dougs headers.
What HP can i expect to get with just a cam change?
Magnus
10-02-2012, 06:20 AM
#3
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Hi
Stock is about 325hp as i understand it.
If i could get closer to 400 it would be nice.
Forgot to tell you:
It will have a 2.5 or 3" exhaust without cat.
Rear end is 4.11
Magnus
Stock is about 325hp as i understand it.
If i could get closer to 400 it would be nice.
Forgot to tell you:
It will have a 2.5 or 3" exhaust without cat.
Rear end is 4.11
Magnus
10-02-2012, 08:26 AM
#5
I would seriously consider changing the heads, because a 1998 has the perimeter bolt heads and are about the worst. I run a Texas Speed 228R 112 in my 2000 Formula and I am quite happy with it. It makes 415 at the tires through a 4L60, but I also have their Stage 1 LS6 heads and that helps quite a bit. You are going to have to upgrade the valvetrain anyhow, why not go a little extra and get better heads.
10-02-2012, 08:37 AM
#6
You need a higher stall converter, past that it depends on what you intend to do with the car. Driver, racer, etc. For a driver that still makes good power, the 228r mentioned above is a great choice.
Keep in mind you also need pushrods, valvesprings, and a quality tune (either mail order from someone reputable or a street/dyno tune). The pcm cannot make a cammed car run properly. Since the car is a 98, you should also consider a ls6 intake manifold. On a cammed car it will be a gain of ~15hp or more.
BTW stock the engine makes 340+hp, they were under rated by GM to make the Corvette look stronger. With headers, exhaust, and a cam you should be close to 380rwhp which is well past your goal of 400 hp crank. You are probably closer than you think now to 400hp.
Keep in mind you also need pushrods, valvesprings, and a quality tune (either mail order from someone reputable or a street/dyno tune). The pcm cannot make a cammed car run properly. Since the car is a 98, you should also consider a ls6 intake manifold. On a cammed car it will be a gain of ~15hp or more.
BTW stock the engine makes 340+hp, they were under rated by GM to make the Corvette look stronger. With headers, exhaust, and a cam you should be close to 380rwhp which is well past your goal of 400 hp crank. You are probably closer than you think now to 400hp.
10-02-2012, 08:37 AM
#7
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Do research on the cam. I have an MS3, Great sound just nothing down low. I like smaller more torque cams. To make bigger cams work you have to put lots of $$$ into supporting mods. Upgrade to an LS6 intake or a FAST for starters.
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10-02-2012, 08:49 AM
#8
I would seriously consider changing the heads, because a 1998 has the perimeter bolt heads and are about the worst. I run a Texas Speed 228R 112 in my 2000 Formula and I am quite happy with it. It makes 415 at the tires through a 4L60, but I also have their Stage 1 LS6 heads and that helps quite a bit. You are going to have to upgrade the valvetrain anyhow, why not go a little extra and get better heads.
to the OP, you gunna need some bolt ons im guessing before the cam. definitely a converter
10-03-2012, 09:02 AM
#10
Get a stall converter.
There is no point in putting an aftermarket camshaft in a vehicle without one.
As others have said you will need some sort of camshaft "kit" that comes with valve-springs, push rods and other necessities.
We have one for 679.99 that includes any of our Elite Series of camshafts designed by yours truly or a custom one from me that adds 20 dollars to that price that includes Brian Tooley Racing springs and Manley push rods. http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls6-engines/
Something for a heavy chevelle that would give it that nice muscle car sound and help motivate it along better would be along the lines of 222/226 .602"/.605" 112+2 or if you wanted something a little larger for more mid range and a little more top end you could do 226/228 .605"/.571" 112+3 which I actually like the events for your set-up better on that second one. First cam will make really nice low end power and mid-range.
I would also swap to a LS6 intake over the LS1 intake if not during the cam swap shortly there afterwards as it will allow your engine to breath much better in the mid-range and up top.
There is no point in putting an aftermarket camshaft in a vehicle without one.
As others have said you will need some sort of camshaft "kit" that comes with valve-springs, push rods and other necessities.
We have one for 679.99 that includes any of our Elite Series of camshafts designed by yours truly or a custom one from me that adds 20 dollars to that price that includes Brian Tooley Racing springs and Manley push rods. http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls6-engines/
Something for a heavy chevelle that would give it that nice muscle car sound and help motivate it along better would be along the lines of 222/226 .602"/.605" 112+2 or if you wanted something a little larger for more mid range and a little more top end you could do 226/228 .605"/.571" 112+3 which I actually like the events for your set-up better on that second one. First cam will make really nice low end power and mid-range.
I would also swap to a LS6 intake over the LS1 intake if not during the cam swap shortly there afterwards as it will allow your engine to breath much better in the mid-range and up top.
10-03-2012, 10:03 AM
#11
If you only want a cam for the "sound" and have no interest in a better converter, stick to something tiny. Smaller than a 224. Otherwise you will have issues that are more difficult to tune around to make the car enjoyable to drive.
Driving a car that rides the brakes is not fun, hell on pads, and in the end...it will still be slow for the mods done.
10-03-2012, 10:25 AM
#12
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Whats your budget is a good question and place to start.
In order to make the 400 with with that engine an auto your looking at a big *** cam which isnt going to be very street friendly....
an engine is an air pump.. more air in more air out more power made....
Not knowing your budget I would look to do:
Intake, stall, heads and cam if you can swing it all.
As the Tick guy said a cam without the stall is not ideal at all.
Stall cam and intake would be the minimum and then you need a tune so dont forget about that.
Patrickg specs some very smart cams and the heads I would look to some LS6 heads instead of the 5.3's ... you can always have them milled to bump compression and they are better heads... Lots of good choices out there and good companies, dont get narrow focused on TSP or your selling yourself short. They are ok but are not the best by any means but they are cheap so they are popular.
In order to make the 400 with with that engine an auto your looking at a big *** cam which isnt going to be very street friendly....
an engine is an air pump.. more air in more air out more power made....
Not knowing your budget I would look to do:
Intake, stall, heads and cam if you can swing it all.
As the Tick guy said a cam without the stall is not ideal at all.
Stall cam and intake would be the minimum and then you need a tune so dont forget about that.
Patrickg specs some very smart cams and the heads I would look to some LS6 heads instead of the 5.3's ... you can always have them milled to bump compression and they are better heads... Lots of good choices out there and good companies, dont get narrow focused on TSP or your selling yourself short. They are ok but are not the best by any means but they are cheap so they are popular.
10-03-2012, 10:34 AM
#13
I would seriously consider changing the heads, because a 1998 has the perimeter bolt heads and are about the worst. I run a Texas Speed 228R 112 in my 2000 Formula and I am quite happy with it. It makes 415 at the tires through a 4L60, but I also have their Stage 1 LS6 heads and that helps quite a bit. You are going to have to upgrade the valvetrain anyhow, why not go a little extra and get better heads.
