Biggest cam for stock converter
Biggest cam for stock converter I am getting some parts together for a head swap and a cam swap. I will be using this for dd application, not really trying to break any HP records. I was thinking of using a great all around cam like the TR224. Can i get away with the 228 or say a 230? I am using a stock convereter and dont wanna get a new one.
I'm using a comp cams 228/230 cam with stock converter. It isn't as bad as everybody says it is, but my next upgrade will be a converter because 1500rpm launches don't cut it at the drag strip. If its just a daily driver that you aren't racing competitively than you will be fine. Sure others will toss their 2.
Then keep the stock cam.
Been there, made that mistake myself.
A mild stall would be a better mod than heads and cam at this time.
If you think a "high stall" get hot and drives badly then you just need to update what you think, keep the stall mild say 3000-3200 and it can drive like stock at low throttle, better than a 230degree cam would with a stock converter that is damned sure.
You probably don't like this input so let me repeat it again, I MADE THIS MISTAKE no need for you to repeat it. I had a mild cam/2800stall/3.42s when I was putting 20K a year on the car and it was great, just buy a good converter Edge is as cheap as I would recommend if you are really worried about drivability Yank usually gets highest marks.
Been there, made that mistake myself.
A mild stall would be a better mod than heads and cam at this time.
If you think a "high stall" get hot and drives badly then you just need to update what you think, keep the stall mild say 3000-3200 and it can drive like stock at low throttle, better than a 230degree cam would with a stock converter that is damned sure.
You probably don't like this input so let me repeat it again, I MADE THIS MISTAKE no need for you to repeat it. I had a mild cam/2800stall/3.42s when I was putting 20K a year on the car and it was great, just buy a good converter Edge is as cheap as I would recommend if you are really worried about drivability Yank usually gets highest marks.
Largest cam for a stock converter is the stock cam. I'm speaking 100% from experience...drove a tr230 copy (which is a lot more like the TR224 than most would think) for over a year on the stock stall and hated it.
But if you're stubborn, you want something smaller than a 224 and definitely nothing larger. I can promise you daily driving a car with a cam and stock converter is a lot more of a pain in the *** than putting up with a quality converter.
I would rather set my car on fire than drive a 224 cammed car on the stock converter again.
But if you're stubborn, you want something smaller than a 224 and definitely nothing larger. I can promise you daily driving a car with a cam and stock converter is a lot more of a pain in the *** than putting up with a quality converter.
I would rather set my car on fire than drive a 224 cammed car on the stock converter again.
thank you for the response i was hoping a sponsor would chime in. And I am asking cuz i dont know, but what makes it such a pain in the dik hole to drive? I mean how is it from a roll? how is it from punching it from a stop? with the stock converter and a 224 cam. I have a hard time grasping what the converter does, i have read articles but still have questions. but thats off topic. why is driveability so bad?
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Can I ask why are you so dead set against a convertor?
You are willing to dump heads and a cam in a dd and not upgrade the convertor? Heads and cam is not a budget build. Save a little longer and wait until your car isn't a dd. Everything needs to work as a package and the convertor gives your engine the ability to get into the operating range of the camshaft so there is no bog or low power level when the car starts to roll. A street car with street tires masks the issue a little bit whereas a sticky track with sticky tires will magnify the issue and you will experience a bog. The drivability is terrible if the cam is too big. I hope that made a little sense.
You are willing to dump heads and a cam in a dd and not upgrade the convertor? Heads and cam is not a budget build. Save a little longer and wait until your car isn't a dd. Everything needs to work as a package and the convertor gives your engine the ability to get into the operating range of the camshaft so there is no bog or low power level when the car starts to roll. A street car with street tires masks the issue a little bit whereas a sticky track with sticky tires will magnify the issue and you will experience a bog. The drivability is terrible if the cam is too big. I hope that made a little sense.
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Verdad Gallardo your right i do need a ride in a stalled car. I live in joliet if anyone is near me. im NOT AT ALL against a converter. Just dont have the money to get one yet. I am going to do one after the cam is in. And i will DD my camaro as its my only car at the moment. Just seeing what people have run in stock form/
I haven't met anybody who was really satisfied with a cam and no stall. At the time, the stall was my most expensive mod, and I was really hesitate to do it, but it was the best money I've spent so far. Look at it this way, if you do the stall first, you can get a bigger cam but have it be just as driveable as small cam/no stall. My stall enabled me to do a 231/234 cam without any issues in driveability. (along with a nice tune of course)
i know that a converter will be a huge difference from what i have read, and i may get one before i end up getting the cam in. I am building the 241s i have new spring and pushrods. they are a set i just bought so they are off the motor in the garage waiting. i will probably end up getting the cam end of november and depending how work goes i may end up getting a converter december. I wanna get these heads on soon though. my current valve train is makin some ticks out of no where.
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From: BFE
The main issues you will face if you do not get a stall are:
-Pulling on the brakes at a stop. Because depending on cam chosen, you most likely will have to raise idle rpm and that is what induces that pull. Remedy is to choose a cam that can idle at stock idle rpm, something with low or negative overlap.
-Lack of performance. That one again requires a cam that has close to stock powerband in order to avoid the dead spot that results in lower rpm with a cam that has a higher operating range.
In all if you cater to those criterias, yes you can change the cam from stock, and if done smartly, you can harvest a little performance increase over stock.
Things to avoid is wanting lope, because that will cause both of the situations above and performance will be crap.
-Pulling on the brakes at a stop. Because depending on cam chosen, you most likely will have to raise idle rpm and that is what induces that pull. Remedy is to choose a cam that can idle at stock idle rpm, something with low or negative overlap.
-Lack of performance. That one again requires a cam that has close to stock powerband in order to avoid the dead spot that results in lower rpm with a cam that has a higher operating range.
In all if you cater to those criterias, yes you can change the cam from stock, and if done smartly, you can harvest a little performance increase over stock.
Things to avoid is wanting lope, because that will cause both of the situations above and performance will be crap.
Can I use this crucifixion of the OP to ask a very relevant question?
What about a bolt on car with a Z06 cam and 3.42 gears? I'm pretty sure all of you would say "yes, a stall is required". But would that baby cam and mild gearing require a 3200+ stall? What would be optimal for DD activity?
What about a bolt on car with a Z06 cam and 3.42 gears? I'm pretty sure all of you would say "yes, a stall is required". But would that baby cam and mild gearing require a 3200+ stall? What would be optimal for DD activity?
Can I use this crucifixion of the OP to ask a very relevant question?
What about a bolt on car with a Z06 cam and 3.42 gears? I'm pretty sure all of you would say "yes, a stall is required". But would that baby cam and mild gearing require a 3200+ stall? What would be optimal for DD activity?
What about a bolt on car with a Z06 cam and 3.42 gears? I'm pretty sure all of you would say "yes, a stall is required". But would that baby cam and mild gearing require a 3200+ stall? What would be optimal for DD activity?
I recently put the hot cam in my car with the stock stall and I've had no complaints driving it. However, it's a fairly mild cam in today's standards. I set the operating temp idle at 650rpm so it is right at the stock idle my default tune had and sounds real nice.
dont do it. Unless you are doing some 60mph roll hits, it will feel like a turd with a stock converter. It might not even spin the tires.
I've done this with a couple cars (cruiser old cars with swaps) with a 224ish cam. sounded great, pulled from a roll, wouldnt even get out of its own way off the line, worse than stock
I've done this with a couple cars (cruiser old cars with swaps) with a 224ish cam. sounded great, pulled from a roll, wouldnt even get out of its own way off the line, worse than stock