Critique this setup...
#1
Critique this setup...
Hey guys,
I'm trying to piece together what I'd like to do in the interim for a heads/cam package before pulling the trigger on something like a 416 down the road. So, I'm trying to buy things that will translate well later and still provide excellent results today. I have a 2002 T/A A4 and want to keep it streetable but aggressive. I currently have 144k miles on the clock...
For now, I'm thinking of the following:
-Tick/Comp LSL/LXL 231/238 .617"/.615" 113+3 LSA Camshaft
-TFS As-Cast 220 Heads with turned-down LS3 valves, BTR Platinum Springs with Ti retainers, PM Guides, and milled to 59cc Chambers all prepped by Brian Tooley
-Stock Rockers with Comp Trunion Upgrade
-BTR 3/8" Pushrods with 5/16" ends to clear TFS heads
-Morel Link-Bar lifters
-GM MLS head gaskets .051" compressed (11.5:1 CR with the heads and 8.7:1 DCR with that cam for 93 octane)
-Melling HV Oil Pump
-Katech C5-R Timing Chain
-ARH 1-7/8" Headers with 3.5" ORY
-Stainless Works 3.5" Exhaust
-FTP 98mm Lid with SD Tune
-FAST LSXR 102mm Manifold with 92mm NW TB (don't know if the 102 TB is worth the potential headaches?)
-42lbs Racetronix Injectors and Upgraded Racetronix/Walbro Fuel Pump
-Powerbond Underdrive Pulley
-FTI 3600 Stall Converter
I'd be looking for 450rwhp or so through a locked converter with a stock 3.23 geared 10-bolt. I'm also looking for valvetrain stability, which is why I'm going with the lightweight valves, GM rockers, Morel lifters, and larger pushrods.
Any thoughts?
I'm trying to piece together what I'd like to do in the interim for a heads/cam package before pulling the trigger on something like a 416 down the road. So, I'm trying to buy things that will translate well later and still provide excellent results today. I have a 2002 T/A A4 and want to keep it streetable but aggressive. I currently have 144k miles on the clock...
For now, I'm thinking of the following:
-Tick/Comp LSL/LXL 231/238 .617"/.615" 113+3 LSA Camshaft
-TFS As-Cast 220 Heads with turned-down LS3 valves, BTR Platinum Springs with Ti retainers, PM Guides, and milled to 59cc Chambers all prepped by Brian Tooley
-Stock Rockers with Comp Trunion Upgrade
-BTR 3/8" Pushrods with 5/16" ends to clear TFS heads
-Morel Link-Bar lifters
-GM MLS head gaskets .051" compressed (11.5:1 CR with the heads and 8.7:1 DCR with that cam for 93 octane)
-Melling HV Oil Pump
-Katech C5-R Timing Chain
-ARH 1-7/8" Headers with 3.5" ORY
-Stainless Works 3.5" Exhaust
-FTP 98mm Lid with SD Tune
-FAST LSXR 102mm Manifold with 92mm NW TB (don't know if the 102 TB is worth the potential headaches?)
-42lbs Racetronix Injectors and Upgraded Racetronix/Walbro Fuel Pump
-Powerbond Underdrive Pulley
-FTI 3600 Stall Converter
I'd be looking for 450rwhp or so through a locked converter with a stock 3.23 geared 10-bolt. I'm also looking for valvetrain stability, which is why I'm going with the lightweight valves, GM rockers, Morel lifters, and larger pushrods.
Any thoughts?
#2
Looks like the Stainless Works exhaust necks down to 3" so I'm not sure that's much of an upgrade over a GMMG or Magnaflow...
Anyway, any thoughts? I just replaced the alternator with a Power Bastards and after tracking down a pesky issue with the exciter, all seems to be doing well and ready for stereo and perf mods now.
Anyway, any thoughts? I just replaced the alternator with a Power Bastards and after tracking down a pesky issue with the exciter, all seems to be doing well and ready for stereo and perf mods now.
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
how much power do you want the 416 to make?
what do you want to do with the car?
whats the part number on the melling oil pump?
are you going to do the racetronix fuel pump AND hotwire kit or just the pump? I would do both the pump and the kit.
i like where you are with the rockers, pushrods, lifters, and timing chain.
for the underdrive pulley, i would do either ATI or stock.
what do you want to do with the car?
whats the part number on the melling oil pump?
are you going to do the racetronix fuel pump AND hotwire kit or just the pump? I would do both the pump and the kit.
i like where you are with the rockers, pushrods, lifters, and timing chain.
for the underdrive pulley, i would do either ATI or stock.
#4
Fast street car mainly. It's a second car and a toy, but I want it to be versatile enough to cruise around, go to the drag strip, maybe do an autoX event or two.
As for the 416 - down the road perhaps 530rwhp through a locked converter. I figure the TFS 220s offer a nice foundation for whatever I end up doing without costing significantly more than ported stock heads.
Melling PN = 10296
Racetronix pump and hotwire kit. Not chancing it.
As for the Powerbond... on a stock shortblock, I feel it's okay and probably the best of those types of underdrive kits. For anything with a 4" stroker crank, I'd only look at ATI.
And the valvetrain would be setup to be as light as possible over the valve and robust enough to control the valve on the cam side. If you can go with larger, more stout pushrods, better lifters, and lighter valves/springs/rockers then do it for stability, power, and reliability.
As for the 416 - down the road perhaps 530rwhp through a locked converter. I figure the TFS 220s offer a nice foundation for whatever I end up doing without costing significantly more than ported stock heads.
Melling PN = 10296
Racetronix pump and hotwire kit. Not chancing it.
As for the Powerbond... on a stock shortblock, I feel it's okay and probably the best of those types of underdrive kits. For anything with a 4" stroker crank, I'd only look at ATI.
And the valvetrain would be setup to be as light as possible over the valve and robust enough to control the valve on the cam side. If you can go with larger, more stout pushrods, better lifters, and lighter valves/springs/rockers then do it for stability, power, and reliability.
#6
I'd go with a larger cam. That would be optimized for the shortblock. Right now, the 231/238 is optimized for a 346.
Everything I've seen says the 10296 is what you want. High Volume. High pressure may starve the top end of oil on an otherwise stock engine.
Everything I've seen says the 10296 is what you want. High Volume. High pressure may starve the top end of oil on an otherwise stock engine.
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#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
#9
Banned
iTrader: (10)
Wouldnt use the powerbond UD pulley. Heard alot of bad experiences with people using them. ATI is the way to go.
Id also go with a 4000 stall converter. Just my opinion.
Again the 102mm is a friggen headache but it will definitely show gains if you plan on using bigger cubes down the road. However, if your going to stay 346 for a while, id go 92mm.
Overkill with the lifters too IMO. LS7 would be just fine at half the cost.
Id also go with a 4000 stall converter. Just my opinion.
Again the 102mm is a friggen headache but it will definitely show gains if you plan on using bigger cubes down the road. However, if your going to stay 346 for a while, id go 92mm.
Overkill with the lifters too IMO. LS7 would be just fine at half the cost.
#10
Erik Koenig recommends the HV pump as it keeps the hydraulic lifter from collapsing. That's why I'd go with it.
Better thread and discussion:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oil-pumps.html
I'd simply use the HV pump and standard spring with 6 qts.
Better thread and discussion:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...oil-pumps.html
I'd simply use the HV pump and standard spring with 6 qts.