Has anyone that replaced their stock rod bolts with arp's had a problem with the small steel bushings in the end of the rod caps? I replaced the stock rod bolts with the arp's and torque the caps. The sizes checked anywhere between 2.2248-2.225 which was within tolerance. When I removed the bolts from the rods the bushings stayed on the bolts. This is my first time with ls1 rods. Need some advice?

 

I've had them hang up on them.. Just a tight tolerance.

 

I just read on another website that the steel ferrules are suppose to be discarded. I'm gonna call arp. If this is true it would have been useful info in the installation instructions. They really don't serve any purpose with the factory bolts.

 

the ferrules are to be removed when swapping bolts. the 01+ bolts have a larger shoulder and no ferrule. the aftermarket bolts are made the same way, but simply stronger.

 

dont use them unless you are gonna resize the rods. i lost my first 6.0 cause i didnt resize. this one has the stock bolts in it and is going strong so far

 

Those inserts are kind of crimped inward at 1 end of the hole . If You put bolt in from each end You'll see what I mean . What I did was to use a file and file that crimped inward part away until the bolts would slide in and out most of the way to the bolt head and then in My opinion will not only work but will provide a more stable cap by keeping the cap more solidly located . I also have the ARP sportsman LS1 rod bolts and I resized My rods Myself . Quite a bit of work/time . BTW The ferules do serve a very important role and that is They fill up most of the space that the stock and aftermarket bolts don't occupy between the bolts and the rod cap bolt holes . And that in turn keeps the caps from moving ,,,,,it keeps Them more solidly located .

 

I replaced them on my 5.3l. Changed one at a time and torqued to a spec (dont remember its been a while) i didnt see any ferrules. Well it broke two rods 500 miles later. I didnt check clearences either. I wouldnt do it unless you know what youre doing cause i didnt lol. But it did last longer than the next 5.3l which i left alone lol which was funny.

 

Guys, my engine is apart. I would never do this in a vehicle even with the one bolt at a time method. After I torqued the rod caps back in place with the arp bolts it definetly distorts the bores. We check the bores with the stock bolts and they were round within .0001". When we torque them with the arp's they were distorted about .0003". I am going to resize the rods and go with the clevite bearings that are plus .002" on the O.D. Even if you plastigage the clearance in the car you aren't going to know if you have round bores. You may have the proper clearance where you check but if the bores are egged and there is a tight spot where the clearance wasn't plastigaged you can kiss your rod bearings good bye. Chrisfrost, the inserts do not fit tight around the shoulder of the stock rod bolts. They do fit tight around the arp's but there is clearance around the stock rod bolts which makes them useless with the stock rod bolts.

 

And plastigauge isnt 100% accurate