Forged Crank and Rods for 5.3
11-13-2012, 09:29 AM
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Forged Crank and Rods for 5.3 Summit Racing does not list a Forged Crank for a 5.3 Any help finding one would be great. Im very new to this so also any tips would be nice IE Cam, Rods, Pistons. Im putting a D1SC on it with a blow through Carb. Im open to all ideas bc I have no idea on what set up would be best. The only rock solid ideas so far are the blow through and the D1SC. Thanks
11-13-2012, 09:50 AM
#3
Are you looking to stay stock stroke, or go larger? We offer a few different brands that will work with your setup.
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11-13-2012, 09:55 AM
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11-13-2012, 11:08 AM
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The block looks good so I do not need to bore it over any. I would like to keep the walls as thick as I can. Im use to SBC that needed some block work to allow for a bigger stroke. IE clearing for a stroker crank. Do I need to do that for a longer stroke on a 5.3?
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11-13-2012, 02:08 PM
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11-13-2012, 02:47 PM
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I would tend to agree with both these guys.
The people pushing stock parts 800-1000hp+ do so knowing they could lose the engine. Some do it figuring a junkyard longblock is cheaper than a forged crank, some like the challenge and notoriety that come with making huge power on stock parts. At any rate anyone saying 500ish is the limit for a stock crank is not to be trusted atall, OEM gen 1 sbc cranks are go to more than that and materials/engineering/machining on the LS series is better.
There are gen 1 and gen 2 cast aftermarket cranks that will break below that but not stock GM V8 stuff.
11-13-2012, 03:07 PM
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The stock GM cranks are quite durable. I'm close to 600 hp on a stock LS1 bottom end.
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
11-13-2012, 03:17 PM
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11-13-2012, 03:25 PM
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I would tend to agree with both these guys.
The people pushing stock parts 800-1000hp+ do so knowing they could lose the engine. Some do it figuring a junkyard longblock is cheaper than a forged crank, some like the challenge and notoriety that come with making huge power on stock parts. At any rate anyone saying 500ish is the limit for a stock crank is not to be trusted atall, OEM gen 1 sbc cranks are go to more than that and materials/engineering/machining on the LS series is better.
There are gen 1 and gen 2 cast aftermarket cranks that will break below that but not stock GM V8 stuff.
The people pushing stock parts 800-1000hp+ do so knowing they could lose the engine. Some do it figuring a junkyard longblock is cheaper than a forged crank, some like the challenge and notoriety that come with making huge power on stock parts. At any rate anyone saying 500ish is the limit for a stock crank is not to be trusted atall, OEM gen 1 sbc cranks are go to more than that and materials/engineering/machining on the LS series is better.
There are gen 1 and gen 2 cast aftermarket cranks that will break below that but not stock GM V8 stuff.
11-13-2012, 03:26 PM
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The stock GM cranks are quite durable. I'm close to 600 hp on a stock LS1 bottom end.
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
To answer your original question, anytime you install a stroker crank, you need to check the clearance of the counter weights and rod bolts. Sometimes a little grinding of the block is required. It's usually not much with a 4" crank.
I'd just get forged rods and pistons and call it a day. Here are the pistons you want for a 5.3 with stock crank (use 6.125" long rods with those pistons):
http://texas-speed.com/p-741-wiseco-...l-engines.aspx
