You'll get much more than 2-3, if you want it. Nice pickup.

 

I hope it's cosmetic. I sent to the engineers at Cooling Depot to ask them. Should hear back tomorrow. I have 90 days with Summit to return if needed.

It's definitely a thicker radiator. Most folks talk of 5-15 degree cooler temps with the LT1 rad. Can't really go wrong with it.

I just need to plug the LT1 ports. I was hoping they would have included some port plugs since this radiator is also the PN for the LS1.

The V6 radiator is apparently the same core without the extra plugs and was a hair cheaper. Maybe if I have to do an exchange, I can talk Summit into letting me swap for a different P/N?

 

Are you getting the Corvette rears? Or just replacements? I have the Casper wiring harness extensions that came with my Kooks. I plan to run those.

I also have to imagine the O2 sensors have been replaced sometime in the not too distant past. They just don't last 145k miles. lol

And on the radiator. I only looked at it quickly before heading out with my kids and took those two quick pics. I went back out into the garage tonight and looked. Sure enough, the bottom support bracket has the same notch and funky *** cosmetic damage on the passenger side (top is driver).

I think they are there for expansion.

I'm going to run it unless Spectra tells me differently.

 

I'm grabbing stock Denso replacements. I did the PCM wire swap from front to rear so my O2's are actually read from the rear harnesses; right where they should be

As far as replacement, idk. They looked rough as all get-out when I swapped them from the stock crap last year. That was me being a cheap-***.

 

I need to get the right socket (24mm?) to pull them from the old *** exhaust piping. So, I haven't looked at them to see.

Btw, got word back from Spectra on the radiator:

Yes it’s called stress cut. It’s for expansion & retraction of the aluminum (cold & hot). The only thing is look up if the saw didn’t go thru the first tube.

And it didn't so I'm good with the radiator.

 

Awesome news brother. Glad all that worked itself out.

I bought the socket and didn't use it. It still was too short and would smash the wires. I use a crescent wrench on mine and its flawless.

 

I need a bigger crescent wrench then. Home Depot time!

My wife hates when I go to NAPA, Sears, or Home Depot, because I spend like 3 hours there looking at tools.

And God help me if I see the Snap-On truck.

 

Well why didn't I see that before.

 

Okay, well the thread in Gen IV Morel failures has freaked me out.

So in my research, it appears that instead of buying short-travel lifters to replace the Morels, one solution is a Restricted Oil pushrod.

So, I'm going to see if I can get a custom 3-piece 3/8" x .083" wall, double-tapered restricted oil push rod. Hopefully that solves any issues the Morels have with bleed down and pumping up (or failure to do either or both) and allows them to clear my TEA ported 243s...

I'll update once I know more or get an answer back on what's happening with the Morels.

 

I've been following that thread as well. As you spoke of, in that thread its scary to think about, but many times "we" the consumers are also the R&D for them.

This said, with lifters no manufacture is void of issues. My 09 5.3 Silverado w/ AFM had my first set of lifters and the camshaft replaced @ 33k. By the time it hit 90k, it needed them again. I think GM's warranty department didn't like my truck to much.

 

swap them for some johnson lsr's and never look back

 

I know. Morels are awesome, but designed to take on more abuse than Eaton stock lifters. But it's happening after thousands of miles. So it sounds like something is up with cams - perhaps loft which will damage and destroy any lifter.

I am going to go with a restricted pushrod with the Morels to help keep then pumped up at high RPMs so there is no loft effect.

 

My issue there is they aren't proven. The first design batch was recalled. Not saying it isn't a great lifter, but it's not a lifter seeing action.

With that said, it shouldn't lose hydraulic pressure and loft since its essentially a solid lifter at high rpm.

 

Just an fyi for ya, this was taken from his pm's to me discussing the recall, of which mine were the last set to be affected as far as he knows. The revision updated the internals - different pushrod cup, different (thicker) metering plate. Anyway see below - the morel's are awesome too...just trying to bring more info to the table.

 

Hmm. That's pretty good.

And that goes to show you the exhaust lobe needs to be pretty mild. The slamming can do more than create a loud "clack." It can wipe out a lifter and an engine.

My original cam had LXL lobes on the exhaust. It set down well. New has EPS... not quite as soft.

RPM lobes are soft and work well too.

 

I wonder who told you that.....

There is a reason our largest flagship camshaft has a RPM exhaust lobe after the first version had a XER. Valve control with every day components that didn't need heavy wall push rods, aftermarket lifters etc.

Do those parts work great and add performance when used? Of course they do, just not everyone can afford them. So I came up with a solution.

 

Lol.

The added seat duration and slow closing ramp help expel exhaust gas as well when teamed with overlap...

 

I've always believed that the added seat to seat overlap that a slower closing exhaust lobe carries over a faster lobe aids in scavenging during overlap.

When the lobe is at the amount of lift we call "advertised duration" for a hydraulic roller lobe that lobe has only lifted the tappet of the lifter .006" of an inch on the opening ramp/closing ramp. Advertised duration is the amount of degrees of duration that the lobe is open for between .006"-.006" lobe lift. Mechanical tappets are measured at .020" lobe lift so don't get the two confused as they do not coincide.

Ironically enough, when the tappet(lifter) has been lifted .006" of an inch, guess where the piston is? At TDC. What happens at TDC? Power stroke and intake stroke. When the intake valve first begins to open, if the cam profile has been ground in such a way that the exhaust valves closing overlaps the intake's opening we end up with positive valve overlap. Again this happens at or right before/after TDC and only at TDC.

So if we know that the valve is only open .102" of an inch and the piston is at TDC when this happens, we know that overlap occurs between .000-.100" valve lift for the majority of the time spent during overlap. If the lobe takes longer to open and close from seat to seat(.006"-.006") then we know it will add more valve overlap during TDC when the most important part of the overlap event occurs. This in theory will aid in scavenging the intake runner and create more mid-range and top end power. If done right it can also add to low end power as well.

The only cams I grind that don't use this philosophy are the SNS Torquemax cams because they already carry a healthy amount of valve overlap in their profile at .050" and .200" I felt that adding more overlap at TDC wouldn't of been in the best interest of driving manners.

There is a whole can of worms you open with a long runner intake and added seat to seat overlap, but if done right it can really open up the power numbers and E.T. at the track.

 

Yup.

That's why I like your Polluter v2. The LSL lobe is fast with a lot of curtain area on the intake with XE lobes on the exhaust to help... it also helps it has a ton of overlap everywhere.

That's actually why I was considering Tooley's 235/242 cam over yours. The exhaust lobe doesn't make it magical. It just makes more power at the degradation of drivability.

The EPS profile I have has a fast seat to seat intake and exhaust lobe profile (similar to XE-R) but with an endurance profile, so the lifter doesn't slam back down when it comes over the nose of the lobe. It's more like your SNS Stage 3 in that it doesn't have additional overlap at .006", but has even less overlap at .200" and uses a milder lobe. So, I'm hoping I can still make power with it without blowing up my valvetrain or killing drivability toooo much. That's where the last 5HP might be found on my cam when compared to a cam with an LSL/XE lobe profile or LSL/LXL. And I think a lot of people will agree; the valve events of the old "G5X3" are probably the best trade off for violent power and decent street manners in a 346.

The LXL lobe is a great exhaust lobe because it has similar seat-to-seat duration and slow closing ramp of XE, but with a lot more curtain area and lift. I like that you use it on a lot of your shelf cams.

 

Btw, Summit said I shouldn't run that Radiator. So I returned it via UPS Friday. They haven't asked yet what I want to do: exchange or refund.

I think I'm going to do neither and put the cost of that radiator toward a BeCool drop in replacement... It is a 2.5" thick dual core all aluminum deal. It comes with the 15PSI BeCool cap and BeCool coolant as well and a $25 rebate. If I can get them to pricematch, I'm going to do it.

That way, when I go with more power down the line, I'll be good to go.