Finally pulling the trigger on parts!
Btw, Summit said I shouldn't run that Radiator. So I returned it via UPS Friday. They haven't asked yet what I want to do: exchange or refund.
I think I'm going to do neither and put the cost of that radiator toward a BeCool drop in replacement... It is a 2.5" thick dual core all aluminum deal. It comes with the 15PSI BeCool cap and BeCool coolant as well and a $25 rebate. If I can get them to pricematch, I'm going to do it.
That way, when I go with more power down the line, I'll be good to go.
I think I'm going to do neither and put the cost of that radiator toward a BeCool drop in replacement... It is a 2.5" thick dual core all aluminum deal. It comes with the 15PSI BeCool cap and BeCool coolant as well and a $25 rebate. If I can get them to pricematch, I'm going to do it.
That way, when I go with more power down the line, I'll be good to go.
Yup.
That's why I like your Polluter v2. The LSL lobe is fast with a lot of curtain area on the intake with XE lobes on the exhaust to help... it also helps it has a ton of overlap everywhere.
That's actually why I was considering Tooley's 235/242 cam over yours. The exhaust lobe doesn't make it magical. It just makes more power at the degradation of drivability.
The EPS profile I have has a fast seat to seat intake and exhaust lobe profile (similar to XE-R) but with an endurance profile, so the lifter doesn't slam back down when it comes over the nose of the lobe. It's more like your SNS Stage 3 in that it doesn't have additional overlap at .006", but has even less overlap at .200" and uses a milder lobe. So, I'm hoping I can still make power with it without blowing up my valvetrain or killing drivability toooo much. That's where the last 5HP might be found on my cam when compared to a cam with an LSL/XE lobe profile or LSL/LXL. And I think a lot of people will agree; the valve events of the old "G5X3" are probably the best trade off for violent power and decent street manners in a 346.
The LXL lobe is a great exhaust lobe because it has similar seat-to-seat duration and slow closing ramp of XE, but with a lot more curtain area and lift. I like that you use it on a lot of your shelf cams.
That's why I like your Polluter v2. The LSL lobe is fast with a lot of curtain area on the intake with XE lobes on the exhaust to help... it also helps it has a ton of overlap everywhere.
That's actually why I was considering Tooley's 235/242 cam over yours. The exhaust lobe doesn't make it magical. It just makes more power at the degradation of drivability.
The EPS profile I have has a fast seat to seat intake and exhaust lobe profile (similar to XE-R) but with an endurance profile, so the lifter doesn't slam back down when it comes over the nose of the lobe. It's more like your SNS Stage 3 in that it doesn't have additional overlap at .006", but has even less overlap at .200" and uses a milder lobe. So, I'm hoping I can still make power with it without blowing up my valvetrain or killing drivability toooo much. That's where the last 5HP might be found on my cam when compared to a cam with an LSL/XE lobe profile or LSL/LXL. And I think a lot of people will agree; the valve events of the old "G5X3" are probably the best trade off for violent power and decent street manners in a 346.
The LXL lobe is a great exhaust lobe because it has similar seat-to-seat duration and slow closing ramp of XE, but with a lot more curtain area and lift. I like that you use it on a lot of your shelf cams.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Btw, sold the Morels... they sold quick. Had three people interested in less than two days.
I wanted to maximize stability even further... So I have Tony Mamo sending me a set of the Johnson .058" short travel link-bar lifters with axle oiling. I'm hoping to spin the 234/242 with a 108 ICL to 7400 with these.
Btw, Martin, I'm going to try out the new EPS cam and see how it does. But the valvetrain is now such that I could run whatever you want to throw at it. I'd just need to upgrade the valvesprings from the PAC-1904s...
I might even consider going to the YT Ultralites with the right spring and a double-tapered 3/8"-5/16" pushrod if I can get it to fit...
I wanted to maximize stability even further... So I have Tony Mamo sending me a set of the Johnson .058" short travel link-bar lifters with axle oiling. I'm hoping to spin the 234/242 with a 108 ICL to 7400 with these.
Btw, Martin, I'm going to try out the new EPS cam and see how it does. But the valvetrain is now such that I could run whatever you want to throw at it. I'd just need to upgrade the valvesprings from the PAC-1904s...
I might even consider going to the YT Ultralites with the right spring and a double-tapered 3/8"-5/16" pushrod if I can get it to fit...
Btw, sold the Morels... they sold quick. Had three people interested in less than two days.
I wanted to maximize stability even further... So I have Tony Mamo sending me a set of the Johnson .058" short travel link-bar lifters with axle oiling. I'm hoping to spin the 234/242 with a 108 ICL to 7400 with these.
Btw, Martin, I'm going to try out the new EPS cam and see how it does. But the valvetrain is now such that I could run whatever you want to throw at it. I'd just need to upgrade the valvesprings from the PAC-1904s...
I might even consider going to the YT Ultralites with the right spring and a double-tapered 3/8"-5/16" pushrod if I can get it to fit...
I wanted to maximize stability even further... So I have Tony Mamo sending me a set of the Johnson .058" short travel link-bar lifters with axle oiling. I'm hoping to spin the 234/242 with a 108 ICL to 7400 with these.
Btw, Martin, I'm going to try out the new EPS cam and see how it does. But the valvetrain is now such that I could run whatever you want to throw at it. I'd just need to upgrade the valvesprings from the PAC-1904s...
I might even consider going to the YT Ultralites with the right spring and a double-tapered 3/8"-5/16" pushrod if I can get it to fit...
For springs, PAC 1209 shimmed to 1.78" FTW......that is if you go with the YT's...hope they can handle that kind of spring pressure...might be time to look into some Jesel's or T&D's.
I bet your wife loves you...like really...really...loves you.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; Jul 30, 2013 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
She hates my guts. She thinks of a car like a toaster.
Btw she had an old Civic forever. It took me a long time to convince her to buy a vehicle I could fit in.
Extreme line? That on Bullet lobes?
Btw she had an old Civic forever. It took me a long time to convince her to buy a vehicle I could fit in.
Extreme line? That on Bullet lobes?
Good call on the lifters Jake, the Johnsons are a fine piece and their customer service is second to none. Check yours for burrs prior to install though - I ended up having to take some #1000 grit to break the edges of the "ears" that shroud the roller wheel along with the immediate area surrounding the roller shaft holes. Seemed to improve the action immensely.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
I have been impressed with Randy's service.
With Morel, the best bet is to go to Chris Straub.
And 510lbs open... How would the PRC EHT set work?
Not as much seat pressure without shimming... but:
Closed Spring Pressure: 148lbs @ 1.810"
Open Spring Pressure: 450 lb. @ .600" lift
Open Spring Pressure: 490 lb. @ .675" lift
With Morel, the best bet is to go to Chris Straub.
And 510lbs open... How would the PRC EHT set work?
Not as much seat pressure without shimming... but:
Closed Spring Pressure: 148lbs @ 1.810"
Open Spring Pressure: 450 lb. @ .600" lift
Open Spring Pressure: 490 lb. @ .675" lift
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I have been impressed with Randy's service.
With Morel, the best bet is to go to Chris Straub.
And 510lbs open... How would the PRC EHT set work?
Not as much seat pressure without shimming... but:
Closed Spring Pressure: 148lbs @ 1.810"
Open Spring Pressure: 450 lb. @ .600" lift
Open Spring Pressure: 490 lb. @ .675" lift
With Morel, the best bet is to go to Chris Straub.
And 510lbs open... How would the PRC EHT set work?
Not as much seat pressure without shimming... but:
Closed Spring Pressure: 148lbs @ 1.810"
Open Spring Pressure: 450 lb. @ .600" lift
Open Spring Pressure: 490 lb. @ .675" lift
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
No, going to stay with the EPS cam.
Can't sell the other one I have, so it's this one for now.
But when the motor lets go, I'll probably swap springs, goto a new cam, and see what else I can do. Maybe a 408, maybe a forged 347 + F1 procharger. Who knows. Need to get this one together and enjoy it tho.
Waiting on the new lifters (today), new cam (tomorrow?), and the baseline tune on the PCM (day after?). lol
Can't sell the other one I have, so it's this one for now.
But when the motor lets go, I'll probably swap springs, goto a new cam, and see what else I can do. Maybe a 408, maybe a forged 347 + F1 procharger. Who knows. Need to get this one together and enjoy it tho.
Waiting on the new lifters (today), new cam (tomorrow?), and the baseline tune on the PCM (day after?). lol
I have been impressed with Randy's service.
With Morel, the best bet is to go to Chris Straub.
And 510lbs open... How would the PRC EHT set work?
Not as much seat pressure without shimming... but:
Closed Spring Pressure: 148lbs @ 1.810"
Open Spring Pressure: 450 lb. @ .600" lift
Open Spring Pressure: 490 lb. @ .675" lift
With Morel, the best bet is to go to Chris Straub.
And 510lbs open... How would the PRC EHT set work?
Not as much seat pressure without shimming... but:
Closed Spring Pressure: 148lbs @ 1.810"
Open Spring Pressure: 450 lb. @ .600" lift
Open Spring Pressure: 490 lb. @ .675" lift
I use those springs on a customers 7800rpm 408 AFR 225cc engine with a mechanical roller cam and Comp Endure-X mechanical roller lifters. His are shimmed .045" for roughly 195/495 on both ends of the spectrum.
No, going to stay with the EPS cam.
Can't sell the other one I have, so it's this one for now.
But when the motor lets go, I'll probably swap springs, goto a new cam, and see what else I can do. Maybe a 408, maybe a forged 347 + F1 procharger. Who knows. Need to get this one together and enjoy it tho.
Waiting on the new lifters (today), new cam (tomorrow?), and the baseline tune on the PCM (day after?). lol
Can't sell the other one I have, so it's this one for now.
But when the motor lets go, I'll probably swap springs, goto a new cam, and see what else I can do. Maybe a 408, maybe a forged 347 + F1 procharger. Who knows. Need to get this one together and enjoy it tho.
Waiting on the new lifters (today), new cam (tomorrow?), and the baseline tune on the PCM (day after?). lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ProCharger-HO-Intercooled-Supercharger-98-02-Camaro-Firebird-Trans-Am-LS1-V8-/110743387922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c8d1ff12
Let us add a spal low profile 9" fan, a aster bracket, twin in tank fuel set-up(I really like the Squash Performance set-up as I have his 1600hp twin pump set-up for my car) and let us build the motor too while it's here. Oh and upgrade the P1SC to a F1C...
What say you Jakey Jake?
Peanut gallery says.....bring it to us for this:
Procharger HO Intercooled supercharger 98 02 Camaro Firebird Trans Am LS1 V8 | eBay
Let us add a spal low profile 9" fan, a aster bracket, twin in tank fuel set-up(I really like the Squash Performance set-up as I have his 1600hp twin pump set-up for my car) and let us build the motor too while it's here. Oh and upgrade the P1SC to a F1C...
What say you Jakey Jake?
Procharger HO Intercooled supercharger 98 02 Camaro Firebird Trans Am LS1 V8 | eBay
Let us add a spal low profile 9" fan, a aster bracket, twin in tank fuel set-up(I really like the Squash Performance set-up as I have his 1600hp twin pump set-up for my car) and let us build the motor too while it's here. Oh and upgrade the P1SC to a F1C...
What say you Jakey Jake?
It would be cool
Jake! Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Okay, so I started playing around with stuff today, because the cam will be here tomorrow!
So, I took my MAP off my old intake and decided to install in the stock LS1 location on the back of the FAST 102 manifold. So, I used a 3/8" drill bit and drilled the hole. No problem.
The issue is now putting it back together. I didn't notice before, but it doesn't look like the top shell sits flush all the way around with the bottom shell. Is that a problem? I put some RTV back near the MAP location as FAST recommends, but pulled it apart to check that the top and bottom were sealing correctly (and that the RTV didn't ooze over into the interior of the manifold). All looks well. It just won't sit flush all the way around.
The other question was the bolts used for securing the top shell to the bottom. It says to use medium thread locker and torque down to 70-89in/lbs. Does anyone actually do that? It's plastic...
So, I took my MAP off my old intake and decided to install in the stock LS1 location on the back of the FAST 102 manifold. So, I used a 3/8" drill bit and drilled the hole. No problem.
The issue is now putting it back together. I didn't notice before, but it doesn't look like the top shell sits flush all the way around with the bottom shell. Is that a problem? I put some RTV back near the MAP location as FAST recommends, but pulled it apart to check that the top and bottom were sealing correctly (and that the RTV didn't ooze over into the interior of the manifold). All looks well. It just won't sit flush all the way around.
The other question was the bolts used for securing the top shell to the bottom. It says to use medium thread locker and torque down to 70-89in/lbs. Does anyone actually do that? It's plastic...
Okay, so I started playing around with stuff today, because the cam will be here tomorrow!
So, I took my MAP off my old intake and decided to install in the stock LS1 location on the back of the FAST 102 manifold. So, I used a 3/8" drill bit and drilled the hole. No problem.
The issue is now putting it back together. I didn't notice before, but it doesn't look like the top shell sits flush all the way around with the bottom shell. Is that a problem? I put some RTV back near the MAP location as FAST recommends, but pulled it apart to check that the top and bottom were sealing correctly (and that the RTV didn't ooze over into the interior of the manifold). All looks well. It just won't sit flush all the way around.
The other question was the bolts used for securing the top shell to the bottom. It says to use medium thread locker and torque down to 70-89in/lbs. Does anyone actually do that? It's plastic...
So, I took my MAP off my old intake and decided to install in the stock LS1 location on the back of the FAST 102 manifold. So, I used a 3/8" drill bit and drilled the hole. No problem.
The issue is now putting it back together. I didn't notice before, but it doesn't look like the top shell sits flush all the way around with the bottom shell. Is that a problem? I put some RTV back near the MAP location as FAST recommends, but pulled it apart to check that the top and bottom were sealing correctly (and that the RTV didn't ooze over into the interior of the manifold). All looks well. It just won't sit flush all the way around.
The other question was the bolts used for securing the top shell to the bottom. It says to use medium thread locker and torque down to 70-89in/lbs. Does anyone actually do that? It's plastic...