Finally pulling the trigger on parts!
03-22-2013, 09:32 AM
#41
Damian literally has a bin full of them. It's not that the cams being ground "off," it's been a hardening process or something, as the lobes have literally chewed themselves apart.
Don't get me wrong, it's not a CONSTANT thing, but it is happening a lot more than normal. Makes me nervous, as mines a Comp as well.
Don't get me wrong, it's not a CONSTANT thing, but it is happening a lot more than normal. Makes me nervous, as mines a Comp as well.
03-22-2013, 10:12 AM
#42
Got the EPS cam today. There was a bit of confusion as it came from Cam Motion. Spoke to Geoff and confirmed he is now using Cam Motion to grind his cams. He said Comp's QC and cores have left a lot to be desired as of late. I've heard this from several other vendors as well.
The Cam Motion core is a better aluminum, so that's a big plus. I'm glad he made the change.
The Cam Motion core is a better aluminum, so that's a big plus. I'm glad he made the change.
Anyways, you have a seriously nice build going here. Very nice attention to detail!
03-22-2013, 12:22 PM
#43
Yeah, it's less about them being off, which they can be, but about the material used in the cores and the hardening process. Now, that's not to say all cam manufacturers don't have issues. But, it's interesting Geoff and Ed Curtis would both switch about the same time to other vendors.
03-22-2013, 12:28 PM
#44
Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
Anyways, you have a seriously nice build going here. Very nice attention to detail!
And yeah, when I talked to Damian about having some of the work done, he pointed me hard to Cam Motion. Glad it all worked out.
03-22-2013, 03:41 PM
#49
Launching!
Join Date: May 2011
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That's a seriously nice build you're doing!!! I'm just a little confused with the stock 10 bolt, what's up with that?? I'll be watching for the dyno numbers!! Good Luck with the build.
03-22-2013, 04:33 PM
#51
Yeah, it's less about them being off, which they can be, but about the material used in the cores and the hardening process. Now, that's not to say all cam manufacturers don't have issues. But, it's interesting Geoff and Ed Curtis would both switch about the same time to other vendors.
03-29-2013, 11:59 AM
#54
Been talking to Erik @ HKE about doing a rebuild of my motor.
I'm thinking of some forged Diamond flat top (0cc relief) pistons, Total Seal rings, stock rods w/ARP2000 rod upgrade, stock crank, all new bearings, balanced assembly, and honing my LS6 block for 3.905" bore. It'd be a budget build using my stock crank, rods, and block.
Waiting to hear back from him on the price and whether or not it'd be worth even doing, or if I should step up to a Wiseco piston/ring set and Compstar or K1 rods and milling my heads down locally here to 59cc. Or just going with a full 383 package as originally planned with a forged 4" crankshaft. I guess I'll see on the price.
I'm thinking of some forged Diamond flat top (0cc relief) pistons, Total Seal rings, stock rods w/ARP2000 rod upgrade, stock crank, all new bearings, balanced assembly, and honing my LS6 block for 3.905" bore. It'd be a budget build using my stock crank, rods, and block.
Waiting to hear back from him on the price and whether or not it'd be worth even doing, or if I should step up to a Wiseco piston/ring set and Compstar or K1 rods and milling my heads down locally here to 59cc. Or just going with a full 383 package as originally planned with a forged 4" crankshaft. I guess I'll see on the price.
03-30-2013, 02:00 AM
#58
Thanks.
I've actually researched it a bit more and have asked HKE, AES, and Thompson for a quote on the following:
L33 Aluminum 5.3L bored to 3.905, line honed, deck squared, bored, tq plate honed (deck height set to -0.010")
Rotating assembly fully balanced
Factory GM crankshaft polished/magnafluxed
Diamond 3.905" 2618 forged piston set w/0cc Reliefs (PN: 126-11501)
Total Seal AP Tool Steel Ring Set
Scat 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN 66100927A)
-or-
Compstar 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN CSC6100DS2A2AH)
ACL or Clevite Rod and Main bearings
Durabond cam bearings
Either connecting rod would work. Whichever ends up being cheapest is what I'll probably end up rolling with. This also allows me to keep the car running while I build up the longblock. Then I can just sell my stock LS1 shortblock here locally when I swap motors.
I've actually researched it a bit more and have asked HKE, AES, and Thompson for a quote on the following:
L33 Aluminum 5.3L bored to 3.905, line honed, deck squared, bored, tq plate honed (deck height set to -0.010")
Rotating assembly fully balanced
Factory GM crankshaft polished/magnafluxed
Diamond 3.905" 2618 forged piston set w/0cc Reliefs (PN: 126-11501)
Total Seal AP Tool Steel Ring Set
Scat 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN 66100927A)
-or-
Compstar 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN CSC6100DS2A2AH)
ACL or Clevite Rod and Main bearings
Durabond cam bearings
Either connecting rod would work. Whichever ends up being cheapest is what I'll probably end up rolling with. This also allows me to keep the car running while I build up the longblock. Then I can just sell my stock LS1 shortblock here locally when I swap motors.
Last edited by JakeFusion; 03-30-2013 at 01:04 PM.
03-30-2013, 03:21 PM
#60
Thanks.
I've actually researched it a bit more and have asked HKE, AES, and Thompson for a quote on the following:
L33 Aluminum 5.3L bored to 3.905, line honed, deck squared, bored, tq plate honed (deck height set to -0.010")
Rotating assembly fully balanced
Factory GM crankshaft polished/magnafluxed
Diamond 3.905" 2618 forged piston set w/0cc Reliefs (PN: 126-11501)
Total Seal AP Tool Steel Ring Set
Scat 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN 66100927A)
-or-
Compstar 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN CSC6100DS2A2AH)
ACL or Clevite Rod and Main bearings
Durabond cam bearings
Either connecting rod would work. Whichever ends up being cheapest is what I'll probably end up rolling with. This also allows me to keep the car running while I build up the longblock. Then I can just sell my stock LS1 shortblock here locally when I swap motors.
I've actually researched it a bit more and have asked HKE, AES, and Thompson for a quote on the following:
L33 Aluminum 5.3L bored to 3.905, line honed, deck squared, bored, tq plate honed (deck height set to -0.010")
Rotating assembly fully balanced
Factory GM crankshaft polished/magnafluxed
Diamond 3.905" 2618 forged piston set w/0cc Reliefs (PN: 126-11501)
Total Seal AP Tool Steel Ring Set
Scat 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN 66100927A)
-or-
Compstar 6.100" 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ARP2000 Bolts (PN CSC6100DS2A2AH)
ACL or Clevite Rod and Main bearings
Durabond cam bearings
Either connecting rod would work. Whichever ends up being cheapest is what I'll probably end up rolling with. This also allows me to keep the car running while I build up the longblock. Then I can just sell my stock LS1 shortblock here locally when I swap motors.