Finally pulling the trigger on parts!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
I know. I'm just going to put it all back together, try to fire it up again, and if it doesn't work, tow it to EPS and let Geoff play with the tune.
I thought it was getting choked for air, so I removed the lid and airbridge. But it still dies out quick. I might play with the TB stop a bit and see if the blade being closed all the way is the problem. It revs up like the blade opens, but then if it slams shut, it is cutting off all airflow. The 102 has no hole in it like stock.
I thought it was getting choked for air, so I removed the lid and airbridge. But it still dies out quick. I might play with the TB stop a bit and see if the blade being closed all the way is the problem. It revs up like the blade opens, but then if it slams shut, it is cutting off all airflow. The 102 has no hole in it like stock.
Holding it to the floor will put it in flood mode and disable the injectors. If you can get it started you might have to keep the RPM's up for a bit to help it clear out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
I tried that today. It just flashes up and dies. I wish I could get it back to holding 5-6 secs of idle. I didn't have the throttle cable hooked up, so I couldn't nurse it to live. But if it would idle like that, I could keep it alive with my foot.
I checked the throttle cable and it's not too tight, so the TPS should be able to make corrections. I just hate firing it repeatedly for 1 sec bursts. That's not good since the oil pressure doesn't build that quickly and I can smell it dumping unburnt fuel out the open headers.
If I could just get it to live for a minute or so, I'd be good. I think it just needs to run and self-trim the values.
I did disconnect the battery between the video where it idles for 6 seconds and the last one where it fires and dies. So, I don't know if that makes a difference.
Also, it looks like I'm throwing a code in both with different warning lights on the dash flickering. I might need to check to see what code is being thrown as that might be the problem. Also, in the one where it kinda lives, it revs up a bit but basically holds at 1K RPM. In the one where it dies, it flashes up to 1500 and stalls out. I don't think I have a vacuum leak anywhere. The first time I fired it, I forgot about the brake booster and it just kept climbing in the RPMs...
I checked the throttle cable and it's not too tight, so the TPS should be able to make corrections. I just hate firing it repeatedly for 1 sec bursts. That's not good since the oil pressure doesn't build that quickly and I can smell it dumping unburnt fuel out the open headers.
If I could just get it to live for a minute or so, I'd be good. I think it just needs to run and self-trim the values.
I did disconnect the battery between the video where it idles for 6 seconds and the last one where it fires and dies. So, I don't know if that makes a difference.
Also, it looks like I'm throwing a code in both with different warning lights on the dash flickering. I might need to check to see what code is being thrown as that might be the problem. Also, in the one where it kinda lives, it revs up a bit but basically holds at 1K RPM. In the one where it dies, it flashes up to 1500 and stalls out. I don't think I have a vacuum leak anywhere. The first time I fired it, I forgot about the brake booster and it just kept climbing in the RPMs...
I know. I'm just going to put it all back together, try to fire it up again, and if it doesn't work, tow it to EPS and let Geoff play with the tune.
I thought it was getting choked for air, so I removed the lid and airbridge. But it still dies out quick. I might play with the TB stop a bit and see if the blade being closed all the way is the problem. It revs up like the blade opens, but then if it slams shut, it is cutting off all airflow. The 102 has no hole in it like stock.
I thought it was getting choked for air, so I removed the lid and airbridge. But it still dies out quick. I might play with the TB stop a bit and see if the blade being closed all the way is the problem. It revs up like the blade opens, but then if it slams shut, it is cutting off all airflow. The 102 has no hole in it like stock.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Oh, I'm not drilling a hole. Just saying that the blade has to crack a bit for idle to happen I would think. That's why I might play with the stop position and have it ever so slightly open and re-learn the TPS at "0." But that might just cause more issues.
The MAF isn't hooked up - I know the tune isn't ready for the LS3/7 slot MAF. Geoff told me he had to do that in the shop. But, it should run without the MAF... If not, I'll install the stock MAF and see what happens...
The MAF isn't hooked up - I know the tune isn't ready for the LS3/7 slot MAF. Geoff told me he had to do that in the shop. But, it should run without the MAF... If not, I'll install the stock MAF and see what happens...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Yeah, I plan to go with EFI Live at some point.
Thanks bozz... I'll adjust the throttle screw ever so slightly and see if that helps. It's definitely acting like it needs air. It has fuel and spark... but after the initial rush of air to fire it, it falls flat hard.
Thanks bozz... I'll adjust the throttle screw ever so slightly and see if that helps. It's definitely acting like it needs air. It has fuel and spark... but after the initial rush of air to fire it, it falls flat hard.
I'm curios what the set screw looks like now, as is. I got my 92 setup used, so it must've already been set for me, but it was definitely "set". It wasn't all the way flush either way. More in the middle.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
It's flush. I think I need to play with that some. When TPS is at 0, I don't see how much air is getting in, which may be the issue. I'll try to fire it up after my morning meetings and see if i can get it to burble and live.
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I'm no expert by any means, just trying to help the best I know how.
Good luck,
James
The Idle Air Control Valve is what's regulating the amount of airflow while the TPS is at 0%. The drive by wire throttle bodies do not have this and regulate the air flow by adjusting TPS. (Not saying you didn't know this already) I'm just saying I don't think you need to crack the throttle blade to compensate. You may need to add ~2 g/sec airflow to the start up airflow table and see how this performs. You're just trying to get it idling correct? I mean the tune is just a start up tune...
Which brings me to my next point, this is probably your issue. I know once I let mine idle after such drastic changes it fouled the **** out of my plugs. Which is where you need to ask Geoff if he re-scaled the tables for the new injectors. They could be just washing the cylinders with fuel...
I'm no expert by any means, just trying to help the best I know how.
Good luck,
James
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Injectors were tuned based on what FIC gave us.
The set screw needs to be turned to just a hair under 1% open and then TPS relearn has to be done. The FAST 102 has no idle hole and the 17 degree overlap cam has essentially no vacuum. So it does not pull in air at idle like a smaller cam would, so you have to compensate.
I'm pulling the plugs later today. Geoff told me to check them as well. And he told me to get the trans hooked up. No weight on the flexplate makes it a "finicky bitch."
Also, I have to check the MAP. It's on the back of the engine and with no trans, the engine tilts back. I may have damaged it...
The set screw needs to be turned to just a hair under 1% open and then TPS relearn has to be done. The FAST 102 has no idle hole and the 17 degree overlap cam has essentially no vacuum. So it does not pull in air at idle like a smaller cam would, so you have to compensate.
I'm pulling the plugs later today. Geoff told me to check them as well. And he told me to get the trans hooked up. No weight on the flexplate makes it a "finicky bitch."
Also, I have to check the MAP. It's on the back of the engine and with no trans, the engine tilts back. I may have damaged it...
I bet its your base running airflow table(needs more air) and the VE table is probable too rich between 400-1200rpm. More so the base running airflow table.
When you start dealing with 30* plus overlap, thats when you have to get mid evil with the tunning and sometimes injector pulse. 17* should be a piece of cake.
When you start dealing with 30* plus overlap, thats when you have to get mid evil with the tunning and sometimes injector pulse. 17* should be a piece of cake.
My new cam has 24* OL. Hopefully it doesn't require any mid-evilness LOL
Good luck Jake! Many of us have been following this build, from the thought of the build lol I want to see your success.
James
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Tony Mamo.
Same price as Morels.
I promise to finish this build.
One problem I have... I keep buying ****. I have some more stuff on the way.
And I'm working like 80 hour weeks. So, I don't actually have any time right now to do anything. LOL
Same price as Morels.
I promise to finish this build.
One problem I have... I keep buying ****. I have some more stuff on the way.
And I'm working like 80 hour weeks. So, I don't actually have any time right now to do anything. LOL