Whats A Good Budget Cam For LS1 ??
03-31-2013, 01:25 PM
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Whats A Good Budget Cam For LS1 ?? I have a 2000 z with full Bolton's and suspension the car is a A4 with some work done to the tranny stock 853 heads @3608 lbs race weight it went 12.46@108 the way it sits. I'm trying to get some ideas on a budget cam I could pick up off here that will work well for a street strip application. I will so be spraying the car this year I'd like to see mid to low 10s if the 7.5 holds together. Any advice will be greatly appreciated this is my first ls build
03-31-2013, 06:05 PM
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it all comes down to goals and budget. you state mid to low 10s with nos but want a budget cam. kinda contradicting. helps you got a 3600 stall but i doubt rear end will survive mid to low 10s very much. that will cut into the budget. not trying to be or sound like an ***, just trying to help you get going in the right direction with least amount of problems and expenses on a budget.
with 3600 stall, a 228 to 233 cam on intake would be a good fit. 243s and a fast would be nice. rear end upgrade before nos i would recommend. that way car is not down for extended period of time. hope this helps and good luck with your project.
with 3600 stall, a 228 to 233 cam on intake would be a good fit. 243s and a fast would be nice. rear end upgrade before nos i would recommend. that way car is not down for extended period of time. hope this helps and good luck with your project.
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03-31-2013, 06:24 PM
#9
i found a nib eps cam for about 75 off the new price.. You gotta find those guy that bought new stuff and CHANGED DIRECTION on their build. They usually unload brand new stuff much cheaper than new. It happens all the time. That being said we really dont know whats in your budget. My 226-230 cam is useing the stock injectors and fuel pump. It pretty much has everything on the verge of being maxed out . Injectors fuel pump,mass air meter. If you go really big remember that all this stuff will need to be changed and the cost adds up quick.
04-01-2013, 12:58 PM
#11
Considering all the supporting items (springs, etc), labor, and tuning that goes into this; if $100 is a budget breaker then one should probably rethink the whole project. Just a personal opinion, much likte building a motor, and then buying ebay fasteners instaead of ARP to save $200. The logic escapes me.
04-01-2013, 01:52 PM
#12
If you do your research and shop around to try an get maximum Bang for the Buck on all the supporting modifications as well it can add up to good bit of savings. Now of course if you just jump into it blindly without truly knowing what you've bought, then you really run the risk of having to spend the money again to do it right.
What's logical to me or you can be two totally different things, that's why it always good to do plenty of research before making a purchase if you feel you lack a good understanding of the product in question.
What's logical to me or you can be two totally different things, that's why it always good to do plenty of research before making a purchase if you feel you lack a good understanding of the product in question.
04-01-2013, 04:21 PM
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Not all cams are N2O friendly so if that's the direction you want to go then buy the right cam the first time!! To go mid/low 10s you'll be spraying 150-175 shot and your 10 bolt probably won't stand for that, so buy a good cam then the rear then do the N2O. It's not cheap but its the cheaper route! Just my 2 cents, Good Luck!!
04-02-2013, 06:25 PM
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I guess I should have been more specific haha I know I will probably end up changing ring n pinions once.or twice throughout the year I won't be spraying right out of the hole I have the kit setup on a button the most I'll be spraying is a 185 shot I'm just trying to have and go fast I'm looking to spend about a grand total for cam springs and pushrods I have a set of 317 heads I think I'm going to put on the car I also have a ssi intake and bbk throttle body has a fuel system too and holds 60 lbs of oil pressure when you put the pedal down
