What's up with Comp Cams ?
At a minimum I am having the test below done on these CAMs
Metallographic Testing
Failure Analysis
Chemical Analysis
Mechanical Testing
If you have or know of anyone with what you believe is a bad custom ground Comp CAM please PM me here....
Last edited by maxdmax; Apr 28, 2013 at 04:44 AM.
This was a concern of mine as well. I did some research before I put the VR1 oil in my car just to be sure. The Zn/p levels are in the range of what was typical in the 90's. It's going to take a long, long time to destroy a cat.
At a minimum I am having the test below done on these CAMs
Metallographic Testing
Failure Analysis
Chemical Analysis
Mechanical Testing
If you have or know of anyone with what you believe is a bad custom ground Comp CAM please PM me here....
Please update once info is know.
At a minimum I am having the test below done on these CAMs
Metallographic Testing
Failure Analysis
Chemical Analysis
Mechanical Testing
If you have or know of anyone with what you believe is a bad custom ground Comp CAM please PM me here....
We do alot of cams here and would definitely know if comp was bad. I would be the first on here saying they suck.
When we do a cam job the oil gets a good amount of zinc and we give the customer a list of good oils for the car.
If this changes ill post up.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
We do alot of cams here and would definitely know if comp was bad. I would be the first on here saying they suck.
When we do a cam job the oil gets a good amount of zinc and we give the customer a list of good oils for the car.
If this changes ill post up.
In any event, think you would be better off with a smaller cam with those exhaust manifolds you are running in your LS swapped C4. We could knock it out in a day.
I get a lot of noise from my valvetrain. I suspect it's the fast ramp rate on the exhaust closing.
The XE-R and LSK lobes are aggressive ramp rate lobes that give good power but require a fully built and thought out valve train.
Last edited by Exidous; Apr 28, 2013 at 06:01 PM.
In any event, think you would be better off with a smaller cam with those exhaust manifolds you are running in your LS swapped C4. We could knock it out in a day.




Lobe profile, spring pressure, pushrods stiffness, valve train geometry,
Valve weight, etc all critical factors before accuracy of grind spec and quality
Of cam material and heat treatment are considered. As has been said
It is like a stacking effect of all these criteria which can be likened to a domino
Effect.
As a 25 year user and Dealer of Amsoil synthetic oils I also know the value of using the best oil possible for ones performance engine.
A few quick points about ZDDP Obd I which started about 1986 required a
Maximum of 1000 ppm zinc and phosphorous so that the catalytic systems
Would last 50k miles Obd II which started about 1996 required a Maximum
Of 800 ppm so that cat systems would last 100k miles.
Some general info Amsoil break-in oil the only conventional oil (non-synthetic)
That Amsoil manufactures has 1800 PPM zinc & phosphorous to insure quick
And proper ring-seal and lobe lifter break-in should be run no more than
500 miles before changing.
I would follow mototunes break-in procedures. Then Change and do
At least 1 500 street mile with break in oil before changing to synthetic.
Since the time and expense of replacing an engine is at least! 8 to 12 times the cost of a catalytic system if you even have one! I will use at least an
Oil with minimum 1200 PPM and great anti- shear properties.
Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30 and for those that want or need a 40 wt for extreme
Heat and long duration (road racing) our Premium Protection 10w-40
Both qualify as well as having detergents for street operation.
Dominator series Racing Oil has 1800 PPM and phenomenal anti-shear
Protection but no! detergents thus must be changed to often for economical
Street operation.
I would like to hear some of the experts who have contributed thus far on
Pre-Lubing dry vs Wet, I can't believe someone would spend multiple
Dozens of hours and many thousands of dollars and not spend 450 dollars
on a Pre-luber or build one for <100 dollars or borrow one vs dry starting.
Kind of like ..... Wetter is Better! LOL!
:thumb
Of our catalytic systems
Miles before changing to synthetic
Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; Apr 28, 2013 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Grammer & clean-up
I wonder if additional oiling of the lobe would reduce the cam problems discussed here. Aside from the extra lubrication, it'll also reduce (carry away?) some of the heat developed between the roller and the lobe.
I say this because it almost looks like the affected cams have lost their surface heat treatment.





But to say "anybody" can't, well that would be just plain incorrect


