Pics Of My Advanced Induction Dart/RHS 223cc Heads/Build Thread
11-13-2013, 02:52 PM
#301
The car will more then likely stay in SD in less you really want it with maf.
iat/ect sensor have been set to adj fueling.
If you can lets put the WB back in this weekend and see how far if any the afrs are off.
In my opinion SD/open loop is the steadiest afr reading driving or wot.
yes in extreme weather change the afr do move but in my experience not enough to justify a new tune for te winter to summer temps.
As stated in early post the afrs (as of the day delivered) where around 12.5/12.7..
iat/ect sensor have been set to adj fueling.
If you can lets put the WB back in this weekend and see how far if any the afrs are off.
In my opinion SD/open loop is the steadiest afr reading driving or wot.
yes in extreme weather change the afr do move but in my experience not enough to justify a new tune for te winter to summer temps.
As stated in early post the afrs (as of the day delivered) where around 12.5/12.7..
11-13-2013, 03:40 PM
#302
If you dial in the IAT vs ect and stick the sensor in the front bumper or some other place for fresh air the SD tune is fine. Not to mention idle quality is better without the MAF crap, and throttle response, and you can easily run a hwy lean cruise group of cell's. Or you can disable the IAT vs ECT crap all together. I was hoping the new HPT SD OS did away with all that BS though. Im still on the old serial cable, just bought the new pro setup! Now if only I had a car to tune.
For a new SS header (even though they're Chinese crap SS) they cant be beat. They fit a million times better than the ebay chinese ones and they should bolt directly to your TSP TD's. Used is good too, I just sold my Kooks 1-7/8 a couple weeks ago for $600. Just have to sit around on classifieds all day cuz the good stuff goes quick
For a new SS header (even though they're Chinese crap SS) they cant be beat. They fit a million times better than the ebay chinese ones and they should bolt directly to your TSP TD's. Used is good too, I just sold my Kooks 1-7/8 a couple weeks ago for $600. Just have to sit around on classifieds all day cuz the good stuff goes quick
The maf is not crap, it works very well and if you dial in your VE table, your throttle response is just as good as pure VE without the maf.
After all, the VE table's entire purpose is a lookup table for throttle transitions (throttle response). If you just tune your maf, and leave the VE table stock, it will feel soggy. I have been back and forth with SD Only and maf/ve the last 2 months and I settled on maf /ve based on data logging just about every day.
SD does pickup a teeny bit at the track, but only if I have my wideband in and I am readjusting the AFR back to my target. IMO, unless you do your own tuning and can make adjustments whenever you want, I would stay away from SD.
Last edited by mchicia1; 11-13-2013 at 03:50 PM.
11-13-2013, 05:35 PM
#303
Launching!
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my old LS2 GTO put down something like 336 on my local dyno here in Indiana.I'd say that's a pretty honest dyno that you used.I've definately seen some inflated #s compared to what track times were once the car was raced.i wouldn't sweat the low numbers,i bet it'll run good at the track.
11-14-2013, 06:11 AM
#307
That's hacky, I had it that way on my GTO, and the AFR still swings regardless. Not even talking about heat soak swing....it just swings. Also, think about as the engine gets hotter and hotter from WOT pulls. It's not going to be pulling in ambient air anymore, but that is what you're telling the PCM.
The maf is not crap, it works very well and if you dial in your VE table, your throttle response is just as good as pure VE without the maf.
After all, the VE table's entire purpose is a lookup table for throttle transitions (throttle response). If you just tune your maf, and leave the VE table stock, it will feel soggy. I have been back and forth with SD Only and maf/ve the last 2 months and I settled on maf /ve based on data logging just about every day.
SD does pickup a teeny bit at the track, but only if I have my wideband in and I am readjusting the AFR back to my target. IMO, unless you do your own tuning and can make adjustments whenever you want, I would stay away from SD.
The maf is not crap, it works very well and if you dial in your VE table, your throttle response is just as good as pure VE without the maf.
After all, the VE table's entire purpose is a lookup table for throttle transitions (throttle response). If you just tune your maf, and leave the VE table stock, it will feel soggy. I have been back and forth with SD Only and maf/ve the last 2 months and I settled on maf /ve based on data logging just about every day.
SD does pickup a teeny bit at the track, but only if I have my wideband in and I am readjusting the AFR back to my target. IMO, unless you do your own tuning and can make adjustments whenever you want, I would stay away from SD.
So your not pulling in ambient air (or better) when your moving? Obviously my car is down so I cant go log to confirm, but Im pretty sure that the readings while moving were the same regardless of where it was. Getting it out of the engine bay just gets rid of that 130+ degree heat soak, split second hot spot when your parked in the lanes/traffic/no air flow. I did not ever try to fix that hot spot in the tune though...shame on me...just saw that it kept going lean on take off with 130+ degree under hood temps so I moved it real quick and never looked back.
My car had been SD for a long time, and one day a buddy asked why the MAF was still in the car. I said because I hadnt made a new intake tube yet and was switching back and forth between an SD and MAF tune a few months back. So I made a new tube, pulled the MAF out of the intake tract, and throttle response went through the roof. Exact same tune, the tune did not change at all, went for a drive before and after the change. That change also makes me want a bigger lid too. I guess its kind of like the Ford Vs Chevy talk though, some guys love one, some the other.
11-14-2013, 08:11 AM
#308
So your not pulling in ambient air (or better) when your moving? Obviously my car is down so I cant go log to confirm, but Im pretty sure that the readings while moving were the same regardless of where it was. Getting it out of the engine bay just gets rid of that 130+ degree heat soak, split second hot spot when your parked in the lanes/traffic/no air flow. I did not ever try to fix that hot spot in the tune though...shame on me...just saw that it kept going lean on take off with 130+ degree under hood temps so I moved it real quick and never looked back.
My car had been SD for a long time, and one day a buddy asked why the MAF was still in the car. I said because I hadnt made a new intake tube yet and was switching back and forth between an SD and MAF tune a few months back. So I made a new tube, pulled the MAF out of the intake tract, and throttle response went through the roof. Exact same tune, the tune did not change at all, went for a drive before and after the change. That change also makes me want a bigger lid too. I guess its kind of like the Ford Vs Chevy talk though, some guys love one, some the other.
My car had been SD for a long time, and one day a buddy asked why the MAF was still in the car. I said because I hadnt made a new intake tube yet and was switching back and forth between an SD and MAF tune a few months back. So I made a new tube, pulled the MAF out of the intake tract, and throttle response went through the roof. Exact same tune, the tune did not change at all, went for a drive before and after the change. That change also makes me want a bigger lid too. I guess its kind of like the Ford Vs Chevy talk though, some guys love one, some the other.
Right now, the game plan is to hook the wideband back up, see what the A/F readings are and make adjustments if needed. The, I'll work on getting the dyno rented for an hour and see if more power can't be picked up by adjusting timing. That's the cool thing about the dyno; you can really play around with different things and see what works.
11-14-2013, 09:11 AM
#309
Very true about the dyno and being able to directly see what the changes you just made did. I made a thread about the MAF thing forever ago, but no one believed me or understood it. I used a much bigger than needed tube, pretty sure its 4", might be 3.75" though.
11-14-2013, 09:21 AM
#310
I wasn't maxing the Hz. It wasn't that it wasn't able to read. That wasn't the problem. I think THAT is where people get confused when the age old question about "is my MAF a restriction" gets skewed... Everyone says it's good for 5-550 or whatever it is. On signal only. No doubt it can read the airflow. BUT, it's a restriction per SIZE in the tract.
It's like the header primary size debate. Sure, 1 3/4 will "support" 650 all day long. Throw some 1 7/8 or even 2" on there and see what happens.
Just getting the MAF out of the system was good for like 9 and 7 for me, whatever it was. And the throttle was CRISP after that.
11-14-2013, 01:20 PM
#317
I would think the FTP 98mm lid with this would work:
http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...gory_Code=SAE0
4" 22-degree coupler. It's what I was going to do before I decided to try the 100mm MAF.
http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...gory_Code=SAE0
4" 22-degree coupler. It's what I was going to do before I decided to try the 100mm MAF.