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Pics Of My Advanced Induction Dart/RHS 223cc Heads/Build Thread

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Old 11-15-2013, 01:33 PM
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I found a 10" one, but the shipping sucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Silicone-Straight-Coupler-Hose-Kit-4-4-x10-Black-/310792255365?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item485ca97785&vxp=mtr
Old 11-15-2013, 02:23 PM
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Wouldn't Home Depot or Lowe's have this? Could you take your lid and TB in there and find one that works? lol
Old 11-15-2013, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Wouldn't Home Depot or Lowe's have this? Could you take your lid and TB in there and find one that works? lol
That's actually not a bad idea at all. Sure as hell takes the guess work out of it.
Old 11-15-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Wouldn't Home Depot or Lowe's have this? Could you take your lid and TB in there and find one that works? lol
As long as you have a pipe in between, that would work. I can tell you ahead of time though, having tried this, PVC is measured ID. So if you need a 3.75" you'd need to look at the 3.5" couplers.

Nate, I'll send you one of the 4 inch couplers I have if you want it. That'll take care of your lid to 4" pipe at least. Then get the correct adapter for your pipe to TB...
Old 11-15-2013, 05:08 PM
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Why don't you just measure? Just sayin... lol.
Old 12-24-2013, 04:57 PM
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Just a little update. Bought and installed an AEM wideband. Air/Fuel fluxuates between 13.5 and 14. Now, that was with the car in the garage, but it's like 30 degrees here. What is the optimal Air/Fuel ratio and how is that affecting performance?
Old 12-24-2013, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Just a little update. Bought and installed an AEM wideband. Air/Fuel fluxuates between 13.5 and 14. Now, that was with the car in the garage, but it's like 30 degrees here. What is the optimal Air/Fuel ratio and how is that affecting performance?
Seems a bit lean from what I've seen. Best numbers come from 12.6-12.8
Old 12-24-2013, 05:23 PM
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Idling at 14:1? I'd like it a little leaner... Personally
Old 12-24-2013, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
Seems a bit lean from what I've seen. Best numbers come from 12.6-12.8
You mean rich, not lean, right?

Leaning it out to around 12.8, how much would that increase HP/TQ?
Old 12-24-2013, 05:41 PM
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If your goin from 14-12.8 you'd be richening
Old 12-24-2013, 06:35 PM
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Oh, I had it backwards. Either way, you guys think where the air/fuel ratio is at now is leaving power on the table?
Old 12-24-2013, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Oh, I had it backwards. Either way, you guys think where the air/fuel ratio is at now is leaving power on the table?
We tried to keep mine around 13:1

AFR is on the bottom
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:05 PM
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Am I wrong in thinking extreme cold and heat can change Air/Fuel readings?
Old 12-24-2013, 08:17 PM
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Umm I'm confused you said sitting in garage your Afr was 14.. You're wasting fuel.. No power lost at idle... Every car is diff, some like 12.5 some like 13.0, and some like 12.7.. Air is colder it will affect Afr, it's denser...
Old 12-24-2013, 09:10 PM
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Most tuners seem to keep the AFR 12.8-13:1. FWIW my wideband showed almost a full point difference from the WB on the dyno. At idle it depends on several things what your AFR can/should be.
Old 12-24-2013, 09:43 PM
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Ok, I'm confused on this whole rich/lean thing. I thought if a car is running rich, it's got too much fuel, hence waisting fuel, and when it's lean, it's not getting enough fuel. I thought the higher the number, the more rich it is and the lower the number meant it was lean.
Old 12-24-2013, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Ok, I'm confused on this whole rich/lean thing. I thought if a car is running rich, it's got too much fuel, hence waisting fuel, and when it's lean, it's not getting enough fuel. I thought the higher the number, the more rich it is and the lower the number meant it was lean.
You're correct on what lean/rich is but wrong on the numbers. Rich = too much fuel and rich = lower A/F ratio #
Old 12-25-2013, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Ok, I'm confused on this whole rich/lean thing. I thought if a car is running rich, it's got too much fuel, hence waisting fuel, and when it's lean, it's not getting enough fuel. I thought the higher the number, the more rich it is and the lower the number meant it was lean.
Think air to fuel ratio. More parts of air compared to parts of fuel = lean. So higher number (ratio) is leaner. Richer is less parts of air compared to parts of fuel, hence a lower number.

Leaner is always more horsepower until a certain point where a) you starve the motor of fuel b) air burns way hotter than fuel (think oxygen burns blue, fuel burns orange) and you melt a piston or have other heat related issues. Like the guys said above a 12.8-13.1afr is common for n/a LS motors.

With two strokes, hell, lean that **** out as much as you can without blowing it up or overheating it and they scream, lol.
Old 12-25-2013, 01:34 AM
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if you are IDLING AND CRUISING AT 13.5-14.1 YOU ARE RICH. Stock stoich is 14.68 In the 0411 PCM I believe

12.0-13.1 is a good window of what your target afr should be at WOT.

Here's what happens.. for example.. You're cruising and your wideband is dead nuts 14.7.. you lay the hammer down and the PCM goes into PE (power enrich) and will command 1.17 (again for example) which tells the PCM to command 14.68/1.17 which is 12.65 AFR at wide open throttle.

I have my cars stoich set to 14.2 (15% ethanol in Houston 93 octane) at idle/cruise with a Power enrich value of 1.13 which targets 12.56 AFR and wide open throttle.


SD will always have afr swing because of IAT bias and heatsoak. You can upgrade to an 02 OS and be able to modify the table. but the only tuner I know of that I THINK has gotten his close is James Short.. (Lsxpwrdz), But his settings might not work where you are because of a number of things such as temp. I like the driveability of OLMAF, but if you don't mind changing fueling too often and the car acting funny on hot starts then OLSD might be your choice depending on what your tolerances as a person are.

The way I see it...
If you can't run a MAF because of the cam causing MAF reversion due to massive overlap then it's probably a track car/weekend car that should of been tuned OLSD in the first place. Otherwide CLMAF or OLMAF would be my first choice. just my .02 cents

Last edited by greenvortec97; 12-25-2013 at 01:42 AM.
Old 12-25-2013, 09:46 AM
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Nice car and combo. With some tweaks you will get it sorted out, mine took a while to get the right parts working together.

I had my car on Futral's dyno and Geoff's dyno. Both made the same power.
As I changed from Allan tuning my car to getting efi live my self and Geoff teaching me how to use it I tuned both my Nova and my Trans am at the track using an Lm1 wide band . by track tuning and tweaking , both cars went to Geoff's dyno and after several pulls on both cars never found any more power on the dyno then the first pull. I was impressed with my self and so was geoff but I still had geoff help me clean up the idle and some drivability issues.

Just shows that tuning for mph is the best bet and you can also do that by data logging on the street and looking for what makes the car excelerate faster on data logg. Not seat of the pants.
Dyno is just to impress on the INTERNET not to make the car faster.
Dyno won't load the car like the street will.

As seen earlier on here, I also set my stoich at 14.2 and like 12.5/1 wot because ofthe added ethanol in gas these days.if your using nonetheno gas only then 14.68 stoich and 12.8-13.2/1 is where good power is made.
Also I'm not big on high timing, have not seen much performance gain at the track going from a safe 27.5 deg uo to 29 of timing. Good combustion chambers dont need as much and with the compression your running it should not need it.
Just my 2 cents, Merry Christmas.


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