Best way to clean stock piston/rod assembly?
#1
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I just picked up my block from TEC this weekend so I'm ready to get the stock pistons and rods cleaned up before they get fitted. The carbon build up around and inside the riglands and on the piston tops is really bad. I've been using a cut and filed ring to clean the grove, but man this is tedious and boring as hell. Is there a solvent I can soak them in to dissolve some of this crap off?
For the guys who have reused stock rods and pistons, how did you clean them?
For the guys who have reused stock rods and pistons, how did you clean them?
#4
8 Second Club
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If you can stand the smell, Berryman makes a 5 gal can of carburetor cleaner that will dissolve the stuff clean as can be.
I'm not sure if you can still buy it though. Get a drop on your clothes, you will smell it even after washing....multiple times.
I just soaked mine in solvent, and used brake clean etc to scrub them by hand. And yep, about an hour each. Parts cleaning brush, schotcbrite, small brass wire brush, etc.
You can get them really clean.
Be careful with that method of cleaning the ring grooves, you don't want to damage them. I used a stainless dental pick.....but then I had time on my hands in the evenings.
Mine were full floaters, so I took the pistons off the rods.
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ron
I'm not sure if you can still buy it though. Get a drop on your clothes, you will smell it even after washing....multiple times.
I just soaked mine in solvent, and used brake clean etc to scrub them by hand. And yep, about an hour each. Parts cleaning brush, schotcbrite, small brass wire brush, etc.
You can get them really clean.
Be careful with that method of cleaning the ring grooves, you don't want to damage them. I used a stainless dental pick.....but then I had time on my hands in the evenings.
Mine were full floaters, so I took the pistons off the rods.
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ron
#6
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@ United Rentals we have this new water based solvent tank which is bio-
degradable and really works well; much better than the oldschool oil based
type. I wire wheel clean the tops and the ring land area then scotchbrite pad
the skirt area(if NOT coated). I break an old piston ring and use it to scrape
the ringland area of carbon buildup. I can usually manage a set of 8 piston/
rod assemblies in about 3-4 hours.
degradable and really works well; much better than the oldschool oil based
type. I wire wheel clean the tops and the ring land area then scotchbrite pad
the skirt area(if NOT coated). I break an old piston ring and use it to scrape
the ringland area of carbon buildup. I can usually manage a set of 8 piston/
rod assemblies in about 3-4 hours.
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#11
12 Second Club
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Do *not* wire wheel the ring land area, you will destroy the ring's ability to seal, as it seals against the ring land as well.
If you can take some time, I've found that Pine-Sol is good at dissolving oil residue and carbon. It takes a while to get there bit it *will* get the crud off. Picked up a set of valve covers for my pending heads/cam swap and needed to get the crud off (and clear the breather area). Soaked them in pine-sol for about two days and 95% of the crud rinsed right off. Another short soak got the rest off with no damage to the aluminum at all. The parts need to be *completely* submerged.
If you can take some time, I've found that Pine-Sol is good at dissolving oil residue and carbon. It takes a while to get there bit it *will* get the crud off. Picked up a set of valve covers for my pending heads/cam swap and needed to get the crud off (and clear the breather area). Soaked them in pine-sol for about two days and 95% of the crud rinsed right off. Another short soak got the rest off with no damage to the aluminum at all. The parts need to be *completely* submerged.
#16
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I used to glass bead them when I worked at a machine shop. Used an old piston ring compressor to wrap around the skirts and pin holes so you did ruin the coating or bores. I'm sure a machine shop could do this for you for $20-30. Afterwards, you could take them home, use a brass brush or scotch brite to get down in the ring lands and the tops of the pistons and shine them back up, then soak em to remove anything left behind, should be good to go. I never would use sand though, it's actually abrasive, I only used glass bead, or walnut shells, some sort of media that wouldn't remove material.
#18
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Pine-sol for the Win! I soaked them in a garbage can with 1 bottle of pine-sol and water for 2 days.
Actually the real winner here is elbow grease. No matter what you soak them in, the dry carbon underneath will need to be pic'd or scratched off.
Now for the main caps.
Actually the real winner here is elbow grease. No matter what you soak them in, the dry carbon underneath will need to be pic'd or scratched off.
Now for the main caps.
#20
8 Second Club
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Pine-sol for the Win! I soaked them in a garbage can with 1 bottle of pine-sol and water for 2 days.
Actually the real winner here is elbow grease. No matter what you soak them in, the dry carbon underneath will need to be pic'd or scratched off.
Now for the main caps.
Actually the real winner here is elbow grease. No matter what you soak them in, the dry carbon underneath will need to be pic'd or scratched off.
Now for the main caps.
Looks good.
What engine?
Ron