Assembling my first ls motor
06-25-2013, 01:25 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Assembling my first ls motor I have a 2001 Camaro and decided to take the motor out and rebuild it. I stripped it all the way down bare got it machined and ended up ordering a stroker kit.
Before I start re assembly, i just want to ask some of you guys that have done it multiple times some tips.
First off, with it now being a stroker, does it still just assemble the same way i took it apart? I could have swore i saw something that said there is oil pan clearance problems...does this ring a bell? I pretty much need to know what to look out for/change while i am assembling the block.
Any other tips would also be great!
Before I start re assembly, i just want to ask some of you guys that have done it multiple times some tips.
First off, with it now being a stroker, does it still just assemble the same way i took it apart? I could have swore i saw something that said there is oil pan clearance problems...does this ring a bell? I pretty much need to know what to look out for/change while i am assembling the block.
Any other tips would also be great!
06-25-2013, 02:39 PM
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Staging Lane
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06-25-2013, 02:49 PM
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On my 383 I had to shim the windage tray off the main caps with 1 flat washer per stud. Rod bolts hit the tray when its flush on the stud nuts. I also had to work the oil pick up tube a little since the tray was higher. The oil pan should fit the same as stock.
Roll the engine over by hand every step of the way, so you know everything is smooth.
As said above ^^^ DON'T FORGET the barbell in the back of the engine.
Also make sure the machine shop did not remove the oil frost plug in the front of the engine.
Roll the engine over by hand every step of the way, so you know everything is smooth.
As said above ^^^ DON'T FORGET the barbell in the back of the engine.
Also make sure the machine shop did not remove the oil frost plug in the front of the engine.
06-25-2013, 03:08 PM
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Staging Lane
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On my 383 I had to shim the windage tray off the main caps with 1 flat washer per stud. Rod bolts hit the tray when its flush on the stud nuts. I also had to work the oil pick up tube a little since the tray was higher. The oil pan should fit the same as stock.
Roll the engine over by hand every step of the way, so you know everything is smooth.
As said above ^^^ DON'T FORGET the barbell in the back of the engine.
Also make sure the machine shop did not remove the oil frost plug in the front of the engine.
Roll the engine over by hand every step of the way, so you know everything is smooth.
As said above ^^^ DON'T FORGET the barbell in the back of the engine.
Also make sure the machine shop did not remove the oil frost plug in the front of the engine.
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06-25-2013, 04:51 PM
#8
TECH Fanatic
If you haven't already pick this book up & read it before you start your build. This book is absolutely the best engine build book for LS motors I have ever seen or read honestly.
How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines (Motorbooks Workshop): Joseph Potak: 9780760335437: Amazon.com: Books
How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines (Motorbooks Workshop): Joseph Potak: 9780760335437: Amazon.com: Books
this book will greatly benefit you
06-25-2013, 05:41 PM
#9
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Woah! I never knew that was there. Is that something I should replace when I rebuild? I'm not by my motor right now but would the machine shop have removed that whole doing machine work?
08-17-2013, 08:08 PM
#11
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