my new ls6 block
06-28-2013, 04:59 PM
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my new ls6 block I have a few questions to see if you can give me some advise. Do I need find hone to clean up the bore wall before put new piston in?
If yes where and size hone I can buy? Be sure I want stay 3.898 bore. As well pistons should be 3.898 size to be fit right?
Here two pictures, let me know.
I plan to look piston mahle and some good rods to built for some good power and small nitrous. It will be in my project for 1992 S10 pickup truck.
If yes where and size hone I can buy? Be sure I want stay 3.898 bore. As well pistons should be 3.898 size to be fit right?
Here two pictures, let me know.
I plan to look piston mahle and some good rods to built for some good power and small nitrous. It will be in my project for 1992 S10 pickup truck.
06-28-2013, 08:08 PM
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I was asking about hone bore like clean do I need to do? Look at picture the wall look like. If do hone it will cause change size more than 3.898?
like the bore is Bore Dia.: 99.0-99.018mm so I need flex hone http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=2
But they only show 95 or 105mm What about summit racing but not sure which grit should be. Just light hone clean up.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...on/3-750-4-250
Anyone who had done this. see if can help me out. Im still new this some way. Love to learn.
like the bore is Bore Dia.: 99.0-99.018mm so I need flex hone http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=2
But they only show 95 or 105mm What about summit racing but not sure which grit should be. Just light hone clean up.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...on/3-750-4-250
Anyone who had done this. see if can help me out. Im still new this some way. Love to learn.
Last edited by Go5.3tt06; 06-28-2013 at 08:20 PM.
06-29-2013, 09:57 AM
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Yes I plan to have machine shop to assembly it together. Expect only I will put heads, can and intake on it myself. Don't want run stock piston. Want aftermarket good one like Mahle pistons I'm consider it.
07-01-2013, 04:12 PM
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I need your help. Which should I go for I beam scat rods or H beam eagle or LUNATI
http://texas-speed.com/c-121-connect...ID=0&pagenum=2
http://texas-speed.com/p-441-eagle-h...000-bolts.aspx
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/conne...ting-rods.html
http://texas-speed.com/c-121-connect...ID=0&pagenum=2
http://texas-speed.com/p-441-eagle-h...000-bolts.aspx
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/conne...ting-rods.html
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07-01-2013, 06:20 PM
#8
I would buy these (free shipping):
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4575
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...g-rods-6-125-/
The Wiseco set is very nice for the LS1. Comes with their ring package too. And the Compstar H-Beam are the best of the "affordable" H-Beam in terms of quality.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4575
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...g-rods-6-125-/
The Wiseco set is very nice for the LS1. Comes with their ring package too. And the Compstar H-Beam are the best of the "affordable" H-Beam in terms of quality.
07-01-2013, 07:41 PM
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I understand but I want see if people who would vote I or H beam for me to run with 400-600 hp max. Im stick with mahle pistons for good. But Im wait on rods for final decision before I can order it.
07-02-2013, 01:25 PM
#11
You do realize the Wiseco pistons are $30 more expensive than the Mahle pistons? And are superior (2618 alloy vs 4032; much better NPR ring package, etc)?
And how are you getting 600HP? If by nitrous or blower, I'd definitely do the Wiseco over the Mahle... And I'd get an H-Beam if you're using a power adder.
If it's all NA and closer to 400HP, the Scat I-Beam would be fine ($283 shipped):
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...olts-927-pin-/
And how are you getting 600HP? If by nitrous or blower, I'd definitely do the Wiseco over the Mahle... And I'd get an H-Beam if you're using a power adder.
If it's all NA and closer to 400HP, the Scat I-Beam would be fine ($283 shipped):
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...olts-927-pin-/
07-06-2013, 08:50 PM
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You do realize the Wiseco pistons are $30 more expensive than the Mahle pistons? And are superior (2618 alloy vs 4032; much better NPR ring package, etc)?
And how are you getting 600HP? If by nitrous or blower, I'd definitely do the Wiseco over the Mahle... And I'd get an H-Beam if you're using a power adder.
If it's all NA and closer to 400HP, the Scat I-Beam would be fine ($283 shipped):
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...olts-927-pin-/
And how are you getting 600HP? If by nitrous or blower, I'd definitely do the Wiseco over the Mahle... And I'd get an H-Beam if you're using a power adder.
If it's all NA and closer to 400HP, the Scat I-Beam would be fine ($283 shipped):
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...olts-927-pin-/
I have question do I need light hone like clean up. Would the piston able use 3.898 or will be oversize a little because of hone? My block is new but a little dust. But it's plastic cover and sit in my kitchen.
07-07-2013, 10:05 AM
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anyone? also anyone who recommable best machine shop knowledge about ls1 able assembly it for me. It would need balance crank for new piston and rods then let them assembly it together. I will just do myself put cam and heads on it. How much cost would you think machine shop assembly it. Im from Ga South Fayetteville.
07-07-2013, 01:10 PM
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Bring it up above the perimeter man. You've got several options. If you just need machine/balance work, you can drop it off with Doug/Dillard and the rest of the ProLine crew up above Canton. I can give you a ballpark but you need to describe exactly what you're doing. If you want a complete shortblock already assembled, you'll have to go through Vengeance as ProLine deals exclusively through them for street/strip builds. You can talk to Ron/Mike/Kevin and they will get you straightened out. I myself just had the machine work done and assembled it myself.
As far as the piston/rod choices. Compstar or K1 are the way to go. Quality is on par with both and will require minimal if not 0 machining. Price is roughly the same, but if you try and go the cheaper route (Scat/Eagle), you're highly likely to run into extra machining costs that will even out or cost you more in the long run. For pistons, you really have 2 options. A 4032 or 2618 forging. The 4032 will give you longevity and better wear characteristics over a 2618 due to the differences in silicon content. You are able to run tighter PTW clearances because of less thermal expansion, thus aiding in wear. But, you are limited in the amount of N2O you can run safely (200 shot is max recommended I believe). The 2618 tends to be a bit noisier due to added clearances needed for expansion, won't see quite the longevity or wear characteristics, but will handle whatever you throw at it. So really it depends on ultimate intended goals and whether you plan on running it until it dies or if you plan on refreshing it every so often.
As far as the piston/rod choices. Compstar or K1 are the way to go. Quality is on par with both and will require minimal if not 0 machining. Price is roughly the same, but if you try and go the cheaper route (Scat/Eagle), you're highly likely to run into extra machining costs that will even out or cost you more in the long run. For pistons, you really have 2 options. A 4032 or 2618 forging. The 4032 will give you longevity and better wear characteristics over a 2618 due to the differences in silicon content. You are able to run tighter PTW clearances because of less thermal expansion, thus aiding in wear. But, you are limited in the amount of N2O you can run safely (200 shot is max recommended I believe). The 2618 tends to be a bit noisier due to added clearances needed for expansion, won't see quite the longevity or wear characteristics, but will handle whatever you throw at it. So really it depends on ultimate intended goals and whether you plan on running it until it dies or if you plan on refreshing it every so often.
07-07-2013, 01:47 PM
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Bring it up above the perimeter man. You've got several options. If you just need machine/balance work, you can drop it off with Doug/Dillard and the rest of the ProLine crew up above Canton. I can give you a ballpark but you need to describe exactly what you're doing. If you want a complete shortblock already assembled, you'll have to go through Vengeance as ProLine deals exclusively through them for street/strip builds. You can talk to Ron/Mike/Kevin and they will get you straightened out. I myself just had the machine work done and assembled it myself.
As far as the piston/rod choices. Compstar or K1 are the way to go. Quality is on par with both and will require minimal if not 0 machining. Price is roughly the same, but if you try and go the cheaper route (Scat/Eagle), you're highly likely to run into extra machining costs that will even out or cost you more in the long run. For pistons, you really have 2 options. A 4032 or 2618 forging. The 4032 will give you longevity and better wear characteristics over a 2618 due to the differences in silicon content. You are able to run tighter PTW clearances because of less thermal expansion, thus aiding in wear. But, you are limited in the amount of N2O you can run safely (200 shot is max recommended I believe). The 2618 tends to be a bit noisier due to added clearances needed for expansion, won't see quite the longevity or wear characteristics, but will handle whatever you throw at it. So really it depends on ultimate intended goals and whether you plan on running it until it dies or if you plan on refreshing it every so often.
As far as the piston/rod choices. Compstar or K1 are the way to go. Quality is on par with both and will require minimal if not 0 machining. Price is roughly the same, but if you try and go the cheaper route (Scat/Eagle), you're highly likely to run into extra machining costs that will even out or cost you more in the long run. For pistons, you really have 2 options. A 4032 or 2618 forging. The 4032 will give you longevity and better wear characteristics over a 2618 due to the differences in silicon content. You are able to run tighter PTW clearances because of less thermal expansion, thus aiding in wear. But, you are limited in the amount of N2O you can run safely (200 shot is max recommended I believe). The 2618 tends to be a bit noisier due to added clearances needed for expansion, won't see quite the longevity or wear characteristics, but will handle whatever you throw at it. So really it depends on ultimate intended goals and whether you plan on running it until it dies or if you plan on refreshing it every so often.
07-08-2013, 05:08 PM
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Bring it up above the perimeter man. You've got several options. If you just need machine/balance work, you can drop it off with Doug/Dillard and the rest of the ProLine crew up above Canton. I can give you a ballpark but you need to describe exactly what you're doing. If you want a complete shortblock already assembled, you'll have to go through Vengeance as ProLine deals exclusively through them for street/strip builds. You can talk to Ron/Mike/Kevin and they will get you straightened out. I myself just had the machine work done and assembled it myself.
As far as the piston/rod choices. Compstar or K1 are the way to go. Quality is on par with both and will require minimal if not 0 machining. Price is roughly the same, but if you try and go the cheaper route (Scat/Eagle), you're highly likely to run into extra machining costs that will even out or cost you more in the long run. For pistons, you really have 2 options. A 4032 or 2618 forging. The 4032 will give you longevity and better wear characteristics over a 2618 due to the differences in silicon content. You are able to run tighter PTW clearances because of less thermal expansion, thus aiding in wear. But, you are limited in the amount of N2O you can run safely (200 shot is max recommended I believe). The 2618 tends to be a bit noisier due to added clearances needed for expansion, won't see quite the longevity or wear characteristics, but will handle whatever you throw at it. So really it depends on ultimate intended goals and whether you plan on running it until it dies or if you plan on refreshing it every so often.
As far as the piston/rod choices. Compstar or K1 are the way to go. Quality is on par with both and will require minimal if not 0 machining. Price is roughly the same, but if you try and go the cheaper route (Scat/Eagle), you're highly likely to run into extra machining costs that will even out or cost you more in the long run. For pistons, you really have 2 options. A 4032 or 2618 forging. The 4032 will give you longevity and better wear characteristics over a 2618 due to the differences in silicon content. You are able to run tighter PTW clearances because of less thermal expansion, thus aiding in wear. But, you are limited in the amount of N2O you can run safely (200 shot is max recommended I believe). The 2618 tends to be a bit noisier due to added clearances needed for expansion, won't see quite the longevity or wear characteristics, but will handle whatever you throw at it. So really it depends on ultimate intended goals and whether you plan on running it until it dies or if you plan on refreshing it every so often.
07-09-2013, 03:35 PM
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I went to machine shop Call Scott Machine in Fayetteville south Ga which is 5 min from my place. He quotes me price.
Final wash block for assembly $80
Crank polish $80
Balance rotating assembly $300
File fit rings for nitrous $96
Install pistons on rods $48
Assembly shortblock $400
What do you think it is to much? Is anyone who can do cheaper labor doing assembly shortblock I would more happy to pay you.
Final wash block for assembly $80
Crank polish $80
Balance rotating assembly $300
File fit rings for nitrous $96
Install pistons on rods $48
Assembly shortblock $400
What do you think it is to much? Is anyone who can do cheaper labor doing assembly shortblock I would more happy to pay you.