I just dynoed today, dyno tune also. My setup with these heads pulled a whole 394HP, 327 TQ

 

What was your A/F ratio?

Also, that TQ is beyond low, something is a miss there.

 

AFR 13.0, no KR, timing around 28.

 

I assume the cam was dot-to-dot and the cam is the cam you ordered?

 

Ok, my mistake the RWTQ was actually 366. The lower number I said before was a misread on my side, that was the number where the RWHP starts dropping off. However, 366 still seems low for this H/C package.

 

I have an A4 with their Stage 3 heads and with a 230/236 .590/.578 114lsa+2 cam and all the boltons put down 400rwhp 415rwtq with something quietly knocking in the bottom end lol.

-Sly

 

I currently have a set of 5.7L S2 PP heads on my 98 SS. I also have FLP's, LS6 intake, TR 224 cam and a ASP UD pulley. The car was dyno tuned. I have an issue with the heads. I may have a distressed valve(s) due to spring failure. I have a lot of KR and only dynoed 360rwhp (M6).
PP has agreed to repair the heads for free. At this point I am unsatisfied. I really don't want a "repaired" set of heads on my cherry 15,000 mile SS.
Like someone else stated. I am going to agree to having them repaired, but I am going to cut my losses and go with another vendor at this point as this has left a bad taste in my mouth.
So if anyone is looking for a set of S2 PP 5.7 heads this fall...........
Customer service is great, no question. But the heads they are now selling without issues, should have been the heads they originally offered.

 

Are you the same guy that changed only the broken spring out with a new one and left all your old ones in there after Terry told you the old springs had a problem and sent you an entire new set of GOLD springs? Then some of the other old springs you left in there (after being told they had a problem) broke and caused your problem? If so, I think your stupidity is to blame for alot of your problems. Looks like if you were worried about your "cherry" car you would have taken the time to replace the known bad springs with the good ones that were shipped to you at no charge.

I think you need to post your entire story, not just the part that makes Patriot look bad.

EDIT: Yep, that was you.. here's the link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/179125-update-patriot-performance-spring-issue.html

 

Gomer, you have part of the story. I had a dyno tune scheduled on a friday (3 months in advance). I broke a spring with less than a week before the tune date. We were not sure what was wrong with the car (running like it was only running on 4 cylinders). We narrowed it down to a few possibilities. We discovered the broken spring after much looking.
At this point it was like 3 days before the scheduled tune. I contacted PP and he was gracious enough to send me a complete spring/seal/seat set over night at his expense. Now I had the parts the day before my scheduled dyno tune - I might add, the next day I had to drive 20 miles after I got off work to pick up a air compressor, stop by the tool rental place and get the cylinder tool fitting for the air compressor for the spark plug. By the time I got dinner, got started it was almost 8pm. I finished the cylinder that had the broken spring around 10pm. At this point I had two choices. I had a appointment at 9am the next day at LS1speed (50+ miles from my house).
So I had two choices. Finish changing all the springs, which would have probably taken ME till 3 in the morning, then button everything back up which would have meant rescheduling my appointment. Or button it all back up, get it dyno tuned bring it home and finish changing all the springs the next day when we were not so rushed.
I decided not to rush it. As it was it was 12:30 when we finished putting all the coil packs back on and everything else back together.
What happened next was that about 10 miles from LS1speed, another spring broke (imagine that). I left the car up there and let them change the remainder as it would have probably been as much to tow it home as it was to have them swap the rest out (300.00).
The heads I bought were purchased with the old style springs. Once I decided what I was going to put on the car, I bought all the parts as it was my winter weekend project to swap everything. After I decided on the parts, I did not frequent the tech boards, thus MY lack of knowing about the spring issues.
I have no personal issues with Patriot Performance. But at this point I am out 300.00 for the spring swap. However much it is going to be to ship them back for repair, plus a new gasket/bolt set. And I don't know about you, but I don't have too much faith in them at this point. I would just like to forget about the whole thing - period.
As for my "stupidity".....well that is most likely for me having faith in someone selling me a defective product from the start - yeah I was one of those idiots who supported them by buying thier product - see what I get in return.

 

It only takes 1-1.5 hours to change all the springs. No need for an air compressor, just turn the crank so the piston is at TDC on the cylinder your doing. Anyway that's besides the point, if something is broke and you know the others are ticking time bombs you dont drive the car. Let the company that sold you the defective part ship out the stuff to fix it instead of taking a car to the dyno and running it hard. Imagine if another spring didn't break on the way there but one did during the dyno session say at 6800 rpms!! That would totally suck, you better hope that little inner spring has enough ***** to close your valve in time at those RPM's lol. Anyway I see both sides and I'm going to assume that Terry told you to replace all the springs before you dyno'ed it (if he knew you were going to) and told you that they were defective. Oh and one more thing you got jipped for a $300 spring swap, dang with I could make $300 an hour lol.

-Sly

 

lets see, after much looking you found it was a bad spring (all you have to do is pull the valve covers off, doesnt take more than 30-45 minutes)

not to mention all the running around you had to do for tools was pointless since you dont need a compressor or special tool to change the valve springs

ive pulled all nighters getting cars ready for races or tunes or shows or anything that needs to get done. basically it boils down to you took a shortcut on the spring swap and it turned around and bit you in the ***.

 

I agree with you. But the heads only had maybe 150 miles on them when the first spring broke, and I felt that the odds of a second spring breaking that soon was fairly slim. In any case at most maybe another 120 miles would be on the "old" new springs before they got change and I figured the odds were in my favor. As it turns out, they ended up changing the springs for me before the dyno tune.
In any case, I am not a expert wrench turner and I did not want any possible problems with the spring swap, so I opted for the air compressor. Better safe than removing the heads......which need to come off anyway.
I have no hard feelings for PP. I just want to move on and get my car to put down the numbers it should be.
The head with the broken valve spring is more than likely the cause of my KR.
From what I have read about the PP heads now, the parts used on the heads are of good quality. That is fine, but it does not help me any with my situation.

 

You guys make it sound like changing the springs is a five minute job. Its not. I've read about people having a nightmare just changing spark plugs.......we are talking valve springs. Maybe for some of you, its a 2 hour job, but not for me. Not to mention I had already put in 9 hours at work that day. It took an hour and a half just to get the valve covers back on and attach all the coil packs etc.
Bottom line is, I got a set of heads with F/U valve springs and shoddy seals. The issue was somewhat rectified by the vendor sending me the parts leaving me to fix it myself. Now I have a head in need of repair (due in no part to anything I did), and now I have to (at my expense) remove them, pay for shipping, and a new gasket/bolt set and take the time to remove and reinstall everything.
Yeah, I'm not too happy about it, but there is not much I can do. That is why I will look to another vendor for heads.

 

I am not sure how much it matters, but the intake port on the LS6 head was flowed with a radius flow port adapter, and the 6.0 litre was not. Notice it was indicated at the top of the flow sheet as well as mentioned in the comment section. It seems the exhaust is a lot closer and neither ex port used any adapter. Also, is that the LQ9 6.0l head or was it the older casting (I see the date was in 2002). I wonder because I was under the impression that the LQ9 was the only 6.0L head that had the same ports as the LS6.

 

Getting my MTI 5.3 2E's (58cc), I'll post my#'s next month. Same pice as PP LS6 LQ9 (59cc) stage II. $1795 outright, no exchange. Jayson from MTI said they are going to bump the price soon on those soon and come up with a cheaper version

 

exactly, all the springs should have definitely been changed. Spring change can take as little as 45 minutes to an hour.

 

You have to admit the earlier problems with PP heads is pretty weak. It shows a lack of testing on their part.

However they seemd to resovled all the issues so the new heads are probably safe. Good bang for the buck.

 

Real LS6 head flowing 340 or so are bing used on really badass solid roller motors. Like the 3 fastest N/A 346ci at the North vs South race this weekend. All traping in or around 130mph.

 

Who's were the 3 fastest that your talking about? I'm just curious.

-Sly

 

TR's car is using a standard set of GTP heads. Not 340cfm monsters. It is also running 13:1 compression. A very impressive combo and I think it went 10.27.

I think the TSP car went 10.5s with a 4L60E tranny? I am not positive though on the combo.