what are some good roller rockers out there?
11-24-2013, 09:15 AM
#1
what are some good roller rockers out there? I have a set of yella terras currently. been reading more and more how they are heavy etc. what is a nice light set out there that dosent fail and dosent cost over 1000 dollars. saw the comp pro, comp gold or the Harland sharps
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11-24-2013, 08:50 PM
#9
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I have been running comp pro magnums 1.75 for a couple years. They did fine with a stock cam but when I put in a cam the problems started. I broke a locking nut, and a couple weeks later broke another. I also broke a BTR max pressure valve spring. I put my stock rockers with the comp trunion upgrade, my problems stopped. Most engine builders and tuners will tell you ls engines do not need roller rockers, this is not an old 350. Stock rockers are proven performers. I learned the hard way. Almost lost an engine when the locking nut broke at 6500 rpms.
11-24-2013, 09:24 PM
#10
I have been running comp pro magnums 1.75 for a couple years. They did fine with a stock cam but when I put in a cam the problems started. I broke a locking nut, and a couple weeks later broke another. I also broke a BTR max pressure valve spring. I put my stock rockers with the comp trunion upgrade, my problems stopped. Most engine builders and tuners will tell you ls engines do not need roller rockers, this is not an old 350. Stock rockers are proven performers. I learned the hard way. Almost lost an engine when the locking nut broke at 6500 rpms.
11-24-2013, 10:45 PM
#12
.630" is the recommended limit for stock rockers, though plenty of people run much more than that.
.630" is the limit because of scrubbing at the valve tip, not the valve guide.
For the guides, you need Powdered Metal guides, or stock geometry and bronze guides in order to run stock rockers. GM castings come with PM guides, which last forever it seems. Bronze isn't much of an upgrade it seems. It just wears faster, especially when the geometry is changed. On heads with altered geometry, it occurs with BOTH roller rockers and stock rockers.
.630" is the limit because of scrubbing at the valve tip, not the valve guide.
For the guides, you need Powdered Metal guides, or stock geometry and bronze guides in order to run stock rockers. GM castings come with PM guides, which last forever it seems. Bronze isn't much of an upgrade it seems. It just wears faster, especially when the geometry is changed. On heads with altered geometry, it occurs with BOTH roller rockers and stock rockers.
11-24-2013, 11:20 PM
#13
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Interesting advice in here, considering everyone told me not to run my Harland Sharp adjustables in my valvetrain thread with over .620" lift on my cam and to run trunion upgraded stockers instead. Watching this to see where it goes.
11-25-2013, 02:47 AM
#14
TECH Fanatic
Your mods are not that different than mine & the H/S rockers caused me grief till I went back to OEM rockers.
11-25-2013, 04:20 AM
#15
Replace your older design YT rockers (assume this is what you have) with the newer design for around $400+. Then verify your rocker shim to obtain the narrowest wipe pattern you can get, which may require shims other than provided by YT with the rockers. Last, once shimmed measure for pushrods and put in the largest OD pushrod you can fit. This will help eliminate valve bounce and the resulting shock loads to the rockers at high RPM.
There is more to rocker life than just strength, the geometry and valve train stiffness play a very important role as well.
11-25-2013, 07:49 AM
#16
The YT's are pretty light as far as roller rockers go. If you don't have the newer design (Gen III) and are running heavier springs, here is my input.
Replace your older design YT rockers (assume this is what you have) with the newer design for around $400+. Then verify your rocker shim to obtain the narrowest wipe pattern you can get, which may require shims other than provided by YT with the rockers. Last, once shimmed measure for pushrods and put in the largest OD pushrod you can fit. This will help eliminate valve bounce and the resulting shock loads to the rockers at high RPM.
There is more to rocker life than just strength, the geometry and valve train stiffness play a very important role as well.
Replace your older design YT rockers (assume this is what you have) with the newer design for around $400+. Then verify your rocker shim to obtain the narrowest wipe pattern you can get, which may require shims other than provided by YT with the rockers. Last, once shimmed measure for pushrods and put in the largest OD pushrod you can fit. This will help eliminate valve bounce and the resulting shock loads to the rockers at high RPM.
There is more to rocker life than just strength, the geometry and valve train stiffness play a very important role as well.
11-25-2013, 08:22 AM
#18
I'd still put the PM guides in there. The heads I was talking about with different geometry was the TFS heads. They show wear even with roller rockers per Brian Tooley as seen here https://ls1tech.com/forums/17836424-post11.html. Which is why he recommends PM guides and stock rockers.
And get the turned down LS3 valves. The difference in weight is 110g vs 83g on the 2.04" intake valve.
And get the turned down LS3 valves. The difference in weight is 110g vs 83g on the 2.04" intake valve.
11-25-2013, 08:35 AM
#19
I'd still put the PM guides in there. The heads I was talking about with different geometry was the TFS heads. They show wear even with roller rockers per Brian Tooley as seen here https://ls1tech.com/forums/17836424-post11.html. Which is why he recommends PM guides and stock rockers.
And get the turned down LS3 valves. The difference in weight is 110g vs 83g on the 2.04" intake valve.
And get the turned down LS3 valves. The difference in weight is 110g vs 83g on the 2.04" intake valve.
