Melling 10295 failure
#1
Melling 10295 failure
Relief valve was stuck open after only 4k miles. Piston was stuck in the bore as well. Has this happened to many others? I know it's common on stock pumps but I thought aftermarket would be better. Maybe a ported ls6 is better?
#4
Brake cleaner, acetone, or even paint thinner will work just fine. I take the entire pump apart before installation and clean it all. I have a set of engine brushes for cleaning the oil gallies in a block that work well for cleaning the bore for the pressure relief. I install the housing first and use feeler gauges to center it. Then the gears go back in after everything is lubed up with assembly lube. Front cover goes on and torqued to spec. Then I lube up the plunger with oil and drop it in with whichever spring I decide to use. Lastly I install the plug with thread sealer on the threads and torque it to spec. If you just crank on it, it could distort the aluminum pump housing and stick the plunger that way too.
#5
There is a brand of oil pump that uses a check ball and spring for the over pressure relief that claims it never gets stuck but I can never remember the name of the supplier that sells it . I'm going to look for it and i'll post if i find it .
#6
Brake cleaner, acetone, or even paint thinner will work just fine. I take the entire pump apart before installation and clean it all. I have a set of engine brushes for cleaning the oil gallies in a block that work well for cleaning the bore for the pressure relief. I install the housing first and use feeler gauges to center it. Then the gears go back in after everything is lubed up with assembly lube. Front cover goes on and torqued to spec. Then I lube up the plunger with oil and drop it in with whichever spring I decide to use. Lastly I install the plug with thread sealer on the threads and torque it to spec. If you just crank on it, it could distort the aluminum pump housing and stick the plunger that way too.
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#8
Yup, I have the 10296, took mine apart right out of the box and found all kinds of little goodies in there just waiting to go through my motor. Little pieces of cast flashing and what not. Just because its new in the box doesn't mean its ready to stick on the motor and run.
#10
I'm pretty sure it's 106in-lbs for the front cover bolts and 96in-lbs on the bypass valve plug, but you may want to double check GM's specs.
#11
Yup, I have the 10296, took mine apart right out of the box and found all kinds of little goodies in there just waiting to go through my motor. Little pieces of cast flashing and what not. Just because its new in the box doesn't mean its ready to stick on the motor and run.
#14
I have seen a lot of people with complaints on the mellings failing early. We clean and lube all of our ported LS6 pumps before shipping so that you guys don't have to! An oil pump should be a bolt on, not something you have to take apart before installation in my opinion. Sorry to hear about your bad experience OP!
#15
True - but if any particulates are put into the oil stream, they'll get captured by the oil filter.
FWIW, When I installed my Melling 10296, I took it apart to put in the other spring, attach it to the block, lube up the gears and didn't notice any flashing goodies, etc.
FWIW, When I installed my Melling 10296, I took it apart to put in the other spring, attach it to the block, lube up the gears and didn't notice any flashing goodies, etc.
#16
I recently took apart my Melling 10295 and the plunger was stuck as well. It only had roughly 1300 miles on it but the plunger had some scratches on it. I took some 1000 grit sandpaper and little sanded the outside to smooth it back out and cleaned the pump throughly. The plunger seemed to be much smoother after I sanded it lightly. You may try that.
#17
Hey guys, since there seem to be some problems with the melling pumps, we are going to try to help anyone out that needs to buy another pump and offer our ported LS6 pumps for $125 shipped. Feel free to check out the sale thread here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...l#post17863628
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...l#post17863628
#18
From looking at the 2 diagrams I have in front of me, it goes from pick-up to the pump, down the driver's side of the block to the filter, up to lifters, to the cam, then to the mains, then back to the pan. Front hole near the filter is supply straight from the pump.
#19
Correct. The problem is that any junk that wasn't cleaned out of the pump still goes through the pump and can damage the gears and even stick the relief plug.
#20
I see what you're talking about, but after hosing it out with brake parts cleaner, shooting it with compressed air, and packing it with assembly lube for priming, the small amount of junk is going to get captured by the filter rather quickly after first start up.