6.0 overheats at idle
Here's a list of my cooling parts and part of my motor build.
Engine:
2001 LQ4 bored .030 over
Wiseco 4.03 -15cc pistons
Callies Compstar H-beams
Brutespeed blower cam
stock 317 heads with 3 angle valve job
Patriot Dual springs
GM LS9 MLS head gaskets
76mm Turbo - crossover running close to the radiator but wrapped with header wrap.
Cooling:
C&R single pass 2 row radiator
New LS1 water pump (heater core fittings plugged)
Mr Gasket 160 thermostat (6367), bleed hole at the top
CSR straight thermostat housing (modified to fit t-stat)
2 - 12" pusher fans (1600 cfm each)
2 LS6 front steam vent tubes T'd together and returned to fitting in top of water pump outlet
When filling the radiator with distilled water and water wetter, I unhooked the hoses going to both steam vent tubes until water started flowing out of each. I used a Lisle spill free funnel to help "burping" the cooling system. with the motor running I squeezed both upper and lower hoses to free as many bubbles as possible, which worked well. Everything was going good for about 10 minutes until it got to 180* on my Autometer electric temp gauge in the pass head, which is usually about 20* lower than HP Tuners via the stock temp sender in the driver head. Water level in the funnel began to rise until it started to bubble over. it's almost as if the t-stat isn't opening and the water has nowhere to go but out of the radiator. last week I pulled the t-stat and tested it by boiling it in a pan, slowly opens right around 160 and is fully open in less than a minute.
I'm at a loss right now. Does anyone have any suggestions for me.
Please let me know if I need to add details or pics.
Thanks ffor the help in advance.
Avery
yes, fans turn on. have them set to turn on at 170 and off at 220 for now until I can get it all to work correctly
i'll have to get pics later done for the day and busy week.
I have not tried without the tstat.
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I have not tried without the tstat.
When you assemble the thermostat to the housing, and place the whole thing inside the pump, does the housing sit all the way on pump, or do you have to push it down/in (i.e. compressing the bypass valve's spring)...?
Measure the depth of the bypass port in the pump and compare with the depth of the bypass valve on the end of the thermostat.
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When you assemble the thermostat to the housing, and place the whole thing inside the pump, does the housing sit all the way on pump, or do you have to push it down/in (i.e. compressing the bypass valve's spring)...?
Measure the depth of the bypass port in the pump and compare with the depth of the bypass valve on the end of the thermostat.
i'm going to try and pull the WP off in the next day or so and will provide better visuals








