Any ideas? At a loss with my LS1
#1
Any ideas? At a loss with my LS1
So i finally finished my LS1 in my 1999 Camaro SS. My setup was MS3 Cam, Weiand Lingenfelter Intake, hi-vo oil pump, ls2 timing chain and gears, dual valve springs, new valves, ls7 lifters, chromeoly 7.400 pushrods, 3500 stall and other small things.
Finished the engine and took it to the tuner and as we were dialing it in things started going down hill. Oil pressure dropped as the car got hotter. Lowest we saw was 20psi, but i think we narrowed it down to it being the sending unit. Had a couple friends in the last year that installed new sending units and were bad when car got hot only to change the sending unit and it be fine.
Car had quite a bit of valve noise, 7.400 push rods with ls7 lifter and ms3 cam. While he was dialing it in it egan smoking at higher rpm's (3500 highest) car did not smoke or have any noise at idle. New hea bolts as well. Just kind of at a loss. Bottom end is fine, compression check was perfect for every cylinder. We disconnected the pcv setup at the tuner to run to a catch can and had no issues previous to us doing that but the engine did not run mich before that.
I just dont know what to do from here. Took the valve cover off and everything was tight and looked good. This has been something that's been hard to accomplish due to money issues so im bummed and lost at this point. Any ideas???
Finished the engine and took it to the tuner and as we were dialing it in things started going down hill. Oil pressure dropped as the car got hotter. Lowest we saw was 20psi, but i think we narrowed it down to it being the sending unit. Had a couple friends in the last year that installed new sending units and were bad when car got hot only to change the sending unit and it be fine.
Car had quite a bit of valve noise, 7.400 push rods with ls7 lifter and ms3 cam. While he was dialing it in it egan smoking at higher rpm's (3500 highest) car did not smoke or have any noise at idle. New hea bolts as well. Just kind of at a loss. Bottom end is fine, compression check was perfect for every cylinder. We disconnected the pcv setup at the tuner to run to a catch can and had no issues previous to us doing that but the engine did not run mich before that.
I just dont know what to do from here. Took the valve cover off and everything was tight and looked good. This has been something that's been hard to accomplish due to money issues so im bummed and lost at this point. Any ideas???
#2
Well you need to either put a new oil pressure sending unit in or get a mechanical oil pressure gauge if you think yours is bad or if you accidentally cracked it upon intake install (common)
Also are you using stock heads? Did you measure preload? And proper PR length first hand?
Also are you using stock heads? Did you measure preload? And proper PR length first hand?
#3
Also be prepared to go check the oil pump o ring for proper install, if its pinched it will cause low oil pressure..
If its that you can fix it quickly, I would not drive it at all since you can do damage with low oil pressure..
Right now you still have a chance to fix all this
If its that you can fix it quickly, I would not drive it at all since you can do damage with low oil pressure..
Right now you still have a chance to fix all this
#4
Thank you for the reply Burken.
I am def going to try the mehanical gauge this weekend before spriging for another sending unti. Unfortunately i have pretty large hands so getting back there to change it will probably involve some smaller handed friends.
I am using the stock heads. My only concern is the machine shop that redid the heads for me could have possible milled the heads. I told them i did not want them to but its always a possibility. Stock head gaskets. As for preload and PR length i did not i spoke with a couple of the guys at TSP and they had said the 7.4's would be fine but now my understanding is it sometimes needs to be shorter or longer as not all engines are the same. So no i did not measure.
As for the pinched o-ring what the easiest way to check it to find out?
I am def going to try the mehanical gauge this weekend before spriging for another sending unti. Unfortunately i have pretty large hands so getting back there to change it will probably involve some smaller handed friends.
I am using the stock heads. My only concern is the machine shop that redid the heads for me could have possible milled the heads. I told them i did not want them to but its always a possibility. Stock head gaskets. As for preload and PR length i did not i spoke with a couple of the guys at TSP and they had said the 7.4's would be fine but now my understanding is it sometimes needs to be shorter or longer as not all engines are the same. So no i did not measure.
As for the pinched o-ring what the easiest way to check it to find out?
#6
Improper pushrod length will cause the ticking valvetrain noise..
And as far as the oil pump O ring, this will walk you through it
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=4
They call it the "blue ring gasket" in that thread, it's also called an oil pump O ring FYI
And as far as the oil pump O ring, this will walk you through it
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=4
They call it the "blue ring gasket" in that thread, it's also called an oil pump O ring FYI
#7
Would it also cause the smokingat higher rpms?
Thanks ill check the oil pump ring out. The valvetrain noise im certain is a pushrod issue i just dont know if that would cause the blue and white smoke (pretty heavy)
Thanks ill check the oil pump ring out. The valvetrain noise im certain is a pushrod issue i just dont know if that would cause the blue and white smoke (pretty heavy)
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#8
As mentioned it is a good idea to check that o ring as that is a common issue for reduced oil pressure. If the engine was pretty hot and at idle 20 psi actually isnt bad. As your rpms go up so will pressure if the oil pump is good. Did the builder replace the valve seals? This will also cause it to smoke other than piston rings and a head gasket issue where coolant is getting in the cylinders. Might be a good idea to keep an eye on the coolant level.
#9
Yes i will def be checking the o-ring. This particular oil pump a couple buddys have used and the lowest they usually see is around 40psi. When cold and i start the car it reads 70 so im hopeing its the o-ring. Rpms werent affecting the pressure. The hotter it got the less pressure, so we are going to try the mechanical gauge cause i have a good feeling the sebding unit is bad. It does have new valve seals. Wouldnt it smoke at idle as well if they were bad? Now you have me thinking about the hesd gaskets. Quite a bit of smoke so im curious.
#10
As you rev the engine you should see the pressure go up as well. If it's not moving then it may as well be your sending unit or that o ring. Pressurizing the cylinder is a good way to check if anything is leaking in your cylinder(such as rings valves or head gasket). But without knowing if a certain cylinder is bad it's hard to check every cylinder because it's too Dam tight in the compartment.
#11
Ok,
You have your oil pressure issued answered.
In your original post there is nothing about heads....what heads, what has been done. Was the short block stripped down, were the pistons out?
These are important. Just as important as what sort of smoke was it? Blue oil smoke or black rich fuel smoke or white coolant smoke?
Is this tuner well established with the ls platform?
Lest start with that and go from there.
You have your oil pressure issued answered.
In your original post there is nothing about heads....what heads, what has been done. Was the short block stripped down, were the pistons out?
These are important. Just as important as what sort of smoke was it? Blue oil smoke or black rich fuel smoke or white coolant smoke?
Is this tuner well established with the ls platform?
Lest start with that and go from there.
#12
We narrowed it down to the push rods. I have the tool on the way from Comp so I can measure to make sure what size I will need. Kind of took a gamble when purchasing the parts everyone said the 7.4 would work just fine but we have determined that is not the case. So once I get it in we will go from there.
#13
Ok,
You have your oil pressure issued answered.
In your original post there is nothing about heads....what heads, what has been done. Was the short block stripped down, were the pistons out?
These are important. Just as important as what sort of smoke was it? Blue oil smoke or black rich fuel smoke or white coolant smoke?
Is this tuner well established with the ls platform?
Lest start with that and go from there.
You have your oil pressure issued answered.
In your original post there is nothing about heads....what heads, what has been done. Was the short block stripped down, were the pistons out?
These are important. Just as important as what sort of smoke was it? Blue oil smoke or black rich fuel smoke or white coolant smoke?
Is this tuner well established with the ls platform?
Lest start with that and go from there.
#14
I'm thinking valve seals... That's literally the only part that was touched other than head gaskets but methinks that would've shown on the compression check...?
You stated the compression check was ok... Have you tried a leak-down test yet?
You stated the compression check was ok... Have you tried a leak-down test yet?
#15
There for sure is an oiling issue beyond a sender if the pressure doesn't increase with rpm. Did they mess with the valve seats at all? I'm wondering if the valvetrain noise is due to oil starvation. What oil pump did you use? A leak down test wouldn't hurt either.
#16
Leak down test not as of yet. I got the pushrod tool in last night so im going to start with my pushrods. The idea has been thrown at me tha. If the pushrods were too long its not allowing the full travel or proper travel of the lifters and rocker arms arent making full travel. Ill pos the results after i figure it out with pushrods length then go from there. Almost all of my noise has been pin pointed to the lifters on both sides. Yes the valve seats are new. The oil pump was from ballistic speed parts the hi vo hi pressure pump
#18
Why did the old pan get a hole in it?
I personally know Ryan from Ballistic speed, he wont sell you junk.
So what is the problem your trying to fix, your pushrod length will be corrected, you have a ms3 with aftermarket intake(this will be loud) and you have smoke at higher rpm. What sort of power does it make, does it drive well?
Just trying to help pick a decision to go with advice.
Hope it all works out
I personally know Ryan from Ballistic speed, he wont sell you junk.
So what is the problem your trying to fix, your pushrod length will be corrected, you have a ms3 with aftermarket intake(this will be loud) and you have smoke at higher rpm. What sort of power does it make, does it drive well?
Just trying to help pick a decision to go with advice.
Hope it all works out
#19
Yeah, how about the valve seals.....are they new?
#20
Yes the valve seats are new. The oil pump i dont think is a problem at all I went with Ballistic Speed parts with confidence and the pump looked great when I received it, i have no issues with that aspect. Some of the questions you asked I answered previously but as for the pushrod length still havent had time to measure it yet....workin on it and as for the oil pan long story short I was a tow truck driver and I got a new truck that was heavier duty than the previous one I had and in transport (200 miles back home, I drove my car to pick up the truck) the winch hook rubbed/ knocked a hole in the pan. I must have towed 100 fbodys and never had the issue except my own car go figure. So i replaced the oil pan.