Daily Driver Cams
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Plantation Florida
Daily Driver Cams Just looking for people that daily drive their cars. I'm in the market for a cam swap, but I'm not looking for cam advice as much as I would just like to hear your experiences with your car type/cam/ do you drive it often ? Mostly , your overall experience with you DD slightly modified car.. Thanks
With you being an auto your going to need a converter. Go with atleast a 3600+ stall minimum.
Drivability of a cam is different for everybody. Plus it deoends on your tuner. I would suggest TSP 228/228.
That would be a good combo for a daily driver.
Drivability of a cam is different for everybody. Plus it deoends on your tuner. I would suggest TSP 228/228.
That would be a good combo for a daily driver.
With you being an auto your going to need a converter. Go with atleast a 3600+ stall minimum.
OP all depends if you want a reliable slightly faster dd or you want an extreme dd. The setup txz28ls1 can be daily driven, but you'll definitely notice it and so will your mpgs. You can still get some power with smaller stuff while keeping 100% if your driving characteristics.
i just recently bought another car that i DD now but before that i was running my WS6 everyday with the TSP Torquer V.2 thats a 232/234 if i remember correctly. it would act a little funny at low rpms and trying to do low speed maneuvers like for parking or stuck in traffic but for the most part you just get use to it and learn how the cam likes to be driven then you shouldn't have much of a problem. i also ran this on a 6 speed though and know that for auto guys its a little different.
I dd a comp 212/218 low lift with a 2800 circle d in a 5.3 01 Z71. Does pretty good and only has low idle surge or acts funny once in a blue moon. IMO for a converter no more then 3k and no bigger a cam then probally 224. I'm going with a tb converter and a tsp custom 215/223 cam in my Z28 whenever I get around to building it...
I dd a comp 212/218 low lift with a 2800 circle d in a 5.3 01 Z71. Does pretty good and only has low idle surge or acts funny once in a blue moon. IMO for a converter no more then 3k and no bigger a cam then probally 224. I'm going with a tb converter and a tsp custom 215/223 cam in my Z28 whenever I get around to building it...
My car isnt a full time DD anymore but when it was i had full boltons and 3600 stall and it was fine. For a while I was set on going with the 228r but ended up with the streetsweeper HT (228/232) and I can easily dd it. Its all in the tune. I drove my car like 3-4 days a week after the cam swap and had no problems doing so.
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im unhappy with my ls6 cam , too mellow. runs & drives smooth as stock but i didnt like my dyno #s. 224 or possibly a 228 w stall. my stall isn't in yet so i cant tell you what size stall to get. cheers
Last edited by DANOZ28; Feb 24, 2014 at 10:14 AM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Plantation Florida
I called and spoke with a few shops , the all seem to point me in the direction of anything under TSP 228r or under that duration of cams in general, This is the first auto car that I needed a high stall for . ( my others were M6s.) My only bad experience with a high stall (+ 3200) was just stop and got traffic ended up over heating the stock tranny.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Plantation Florida
Thanks to everyone for their input, my parts order is going out later this week for my cam swap. I would still like to hear everyones DD experience. I noticed a lot of the guys down here in South Florida said they almost all ended up doing a bigger cam.
I never had a cammed car but will be cammed next time its started (spun a rod bearing so new motor) but I did putt around with a 4000-4200 stall in front of 2.73s, you really get used to that aspect quickly. The first time you drive the stalled auto its weird as hell, but it grows on you, and you'll never get tired of the increased performance. If you want it to remain decently stock I'd go with the yank ss3600, everybody says that's one of the tighter of the shelf converters. That paired with 3.73s out back will make it decently tight.
If driveability is your main concern when it comes to the cam, I'd stay around a 230/234-6 max for duration, around a 6-8 degrees of overlap max, with the mildest lobes possible for increased reliability and niceness to the valve train. I'd also do a comp cams trunnion upgrade. Earlier IVC for improved bottom end torque and driveability, although that's not the whole picture when it comes to that. You can get radical and retain some driveability, I personally feel half of the demons people deal with with cams is usually due to the tune, low speed problems are the hardest to tune for.
Good luck for your cam and keep us updated with your results and experiences.
If driveability is your main concern when it comes to the cam, I'd stay around a 230/234-6 max for duration, around a 6-8 degrees of overlap max, with the mildest lobes possible for increased reliability and niceness to the valve train. I'd also do a comp cams trunnion upgrade. Earlier IVC for improved bottom end torque and driveability, although that's not the whole picture when it comes to that. You can get radical and retain some driveability, I personally feel half of the demons people deal with with cams is usually due to the tune, low speed problems are the hardest to tune for.
Good luck for your cam and keep us updated with your results and experiences.
I would still like to hear everyones DD experience. I noticed a lot of the guys down here in South Florida said they almost all ended up doing a bigger cam.
If you have some money and want a badass daily driver, a smaller cammed car with ported heads and higher compression will drive alot better than a big cammed car and make more power, especially down low where you will be driving 99% of the time.
True, I made 370 rwhp in my car with the stock '99 cam, 1 7/8" headers, and AI ported 799 heads.
Thats about 40 rwhp higher than your typical bolt on car.
Of course, I gained 65 rwhp swapping to a 226/230 cam.
Doing heads with the stock cam is not such a bad idea. People on here make it seem like you're not going to gain even 5 hp.
Thats about 40 rwhp higher than your typical bolt on car.
Of course, I gained 65 rwhp swapping to a 226/230 cam.
Doing heads with the stock cam is not such a bad idea. People on here make it seem like you're not going to gain even 5 hp.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Plantation Florida
Yes It was the stock 4l60, I was in stop and go traffic. After about 40 minutes of the traffic, the trans started slipping bad. I pulled off the road and towed it to my shop and let it cool off. it was using the stock cooler in the radiator. I was told by another tech I worked with was the low speed fan doesn't pull enough heat out to help out with the stress that a higher stall speed creates. I didn't experience the problem again after that, I ended up getting the high speed fan switch and just left it on most of the time. I ended up selling the car a few months down the road and picked up a TA m6. For the current TA I have now its an A4, so I will be addressing that problem soon. Thanks for the advice!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Plantation Florida
I never had a cammed car but will be cammed next time its started (spun a rod bearing so new motor) but I did putt around with a 4000-4200 stall in front of 2.73s, you really get used to that aspect quickly. The first time you drive the stalled auto its weird as hell, but it grows on you, and you'll never get tired of the increased performance. If you want it to remain decently stock I'd go with the yank ss3600, everybody says that's one of the tighter of the shelf converters. That paired with 3.73s out back will make it decently tight.
If driveability is your main concern when it comes to the cam, I'd stay around a 230/234-6 max for duration, around a 6-8 degrees of overlap max, with the mildest lobes possible for increased reliability and niceness to the valve train. I'd also do a comp cams trunnion upgrade. Earlier IVC for improved bottom end torque and driveability, although that's not the whole picture when it comes to that. You can get radical and retain some driveability, I personally feel half of the demons people deal with with cams is usually due to the tune, low speed problems are the hardest to tune for.
Good luck for your cam and keep us updated with your results and experiences.
If driveability is your main concern when it comes to the cam, I'd stay around a 230/234-6 max for duration, around a 6-8 degrees of overlap max, with the mildest lobes possible for increased reliability and niceness to the valve train. I'd also do a comp cams trunnion upgrade. Earlier IVC for improved bottom end torque and driveability, although that's not the whole picture when it comes to that. You can get radical and retain some driveability, I personally feel half of the demons people deal with with cams is usually due to the tune, low speed problems are the hardest to tune for.
Good luck for your cam and keep us updated with your results and experiences.
I really like the LS motors and Im learning something every day. Back to the point is, I would like to enjoy bolt ons but im not opposed to cam swaps or heads either. I would like to keep the it with the DD range. I spoke to someone at TEXAS SPEED and they said a TSP 228r cam with PRC LS6 heads would make for a good combo. I know the stall is a must , thank you for helping me with it , its a little different then anything I have had before ( where the power band is and reving so much higher than anything I have had.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Plantation Florida
True, I made 370 rwhp in my car with the stock '99 cam, 1 7/8" headers, and AI ported 799 heads.
Thats about 40 rwhp higher than your typical bolt on car.
Of course, I gained 65 rwhp swapping to a 226/230 cam.
Doing heads with the stock cam is not such a bad idea. People on here make it seem like you're not going to gain even 5 hp.
Thats about 40 rwhp higher than your typical bolt on car.
Of course, I gained 65 rwhp swapping to a 226/230 cam.
Doing heads with the stock cam is not such a bad idea. People on here make it seem like you're not going to gain even 5 hp.