Justhereforinfo

iTrader: (2)

Im almost ready to drop an ls6 long block into my 2003 short bed silverado. The long block will be topped with my truck intake. Im looking at a circle d 3000 stall converter. Would the 2002 zo6 cam work well in a heavy truck with this converter?

Thanks

joshua022

iTrader: (12)

I wouldnt waste your time with such a small cam.

Since your already looking at a converter too, go with something 220+ duration.

Justhereforinfo

iTrader: (2)

I dont have enough knowledge to pick a cam for my combo. Im afraid to take the suggestions of fellow forum members since those suggestions will be based off their experience with lighter car combos, and not a heavy *** truck. I was going to get a custom cam and spring combo, but since im not after max effort from my setup, and would prefer to have better driveability and gas mileage that often comes with an OEM cam, i decided to put that money into a converter.

Just wondering if this combo would be decent in a truck, since the cam was designed for a manual trans and a light car.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

It's a top end oriented cam. I wouldn't run it in a truck.

It's designed to go in a car that weighs 3000 lbs and has shorter gearing 1st through 3rd.

I would run a 220/224 111+3 in your setup. Will make tons of torque and has 0 overlap, so will run smooth as stock, but still have some cam lope.

joshua022

iTrader: (12)

I have only ever built 4.8s and 5.3s for the trucks.

Your gas mileage will suffer more from the converter than a medium-small cam.

Tell us what you DO want out of your truck so we can give you ideas.

You can get a even smaller cam and not need a converter. There are Soo many options.

PREDATOR-Z

custom:
212/218 .561/.570 113+1lsa
it will drive like stock at -11 overlap and have the right power range for a truck.

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

We have a custom cam service that can get you exactly what you want out of it and even necessitate the stall. That cam will not.

You would prob enjoy quite a bit more tq than that cam offers. The stock trans is the biggest problem in the trucks with them starting to lose fluid pressure and volume around 5800-6k. The truck intake itself wont want to pull much over that anyway. We can get you a cam that will be noticeable, drive civilized (stall or no stall) and be alot of fun when you want it to be. AND if needed, we offer remote tuning services to top the package off.

There is a reason people buy the circle D lately. Price. It is a good converter, but there are better ones out there as far as quality and what to expect from them. We have a large selection there also, but with something like that, you would likely want a better trans cooler as most 1/2 tons did not have the external trans cooler installed standard.

Justhereforinfo

iTrader: (2)

Damn, back to the drawing board. Here are my goals for this truck, in order of priority.

1. Driveability and gas milage. Smooth idle, good vacuum for acc, longevity.

2. As much power and torque as I can get without sacrificing the above. Powerband should be within the range of the truck intake. 2000-5500rpms.

3. This truck has never and will never tow, or race at the track. It is purely a second vehicle that I use to hual surfboards and fishing gear. So strictly street use.

I have had great experiences with Flow Tech Induction, so I'd prefer to have Ed grind my cam, if I go that route.

As far as the converter goes, I wasnt aware that gas mileage would suffer. I have never built an automatic setup. Thanks for that info. I also understand that you have to sacrifice in certain areas to gain in others. Pay to play. I have read that a converter is a solid .5 second off of ET in most cases, and while I dont plan to race at a track, I do want it to be quick. Plus while the engine is out, it would be stupid not to toss a converter in there.

So it looks like the z06 cam and springs I just installed will need to be removed.

Would it be stupid to find or grind a cam to work with the stock ls6 valve springs? Or should I just get some duals? The lunati's are about $220.

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

Stock ls6 springs do not offer near enough pressure for most good cams.

I have had quite a few dyno runs in the past have less than stellar results with Eds cams. We even put 3 diff cams in an ls3 headed gto from him and still didnt get the numbers that were promised and this guy followed every written word ed said. Diff length pushrods for intake and exhaust the list goes on.

After personally tuning and working on well over 150 trucks alone in the past 3 years, I am sure we have the ticket as far as they go.

We normally recommend the BT Racing springs but in your case you could use a very nice manley single beehive and be golden. So many options. The lunati is a good spring as well.

Justhereforinfo

iTrader: (2)

I understand that every forum has their sponsors and their followings. The fact is Ed ground me a badass cam for my SBF stroker, that did exactly what he said it would. He's earned by business.

Coincidentally FTI is not a sponsor here, so let the bashing continue.

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

I am not bashing him, nor is it coincidence that I have worked with his stuff before. I am telling my own personal experience. There are many more that I had with him, but I am not trying to bash him. There are quite a few good vendors that are not on here for one reason or another.

726.0chevelle

iTrader: (17)

A comp 212/218 would be great or a comp 216/ 220 if you wanted a little more power. I had the 212/218 in my lq4 Silverado with ls6 springs for several years with no problems. Drives like stock with no loss of mpgs.

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

There are quite a bit better designed lobes out there now that can give you the same near stock driveability with more power and no sacrifice.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

For what you want I'd go with a Cam Motion 212/218 112lsa, or a very similar sized cam from FTI if that's your preference.

joshua022

iTrader: (12)

Also if you have your tuner lock your converter sooner, it will help keep the heat down(in the trans) and not hurt your mileage. Since you don't plan on racing or towing.

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

It is always a good idea to get an external cooler esp if you are going to run a converter, and on a truck they are always a good idea. We have one that fits exactly in stock bolts holes and comes with lines etc. Very nice setup. No bs hose clamps needed or flaring or fittings.

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

Eps 222/226 on a 115 with some psi max life's would make a fun truck.

Justhereforinfo

iTrader: (2)

Quick question. While I appreciate all the cam recommendations, I dont understand how everyone can recommend a cam based off duration and ICL only. What about the lift, and valve events? I admit I dont know enough about camshaft design to create my own cam, but from the partial recommendations, Im afraid to take your suggestions.

Not trying to be ungrateful, I appreciate the recommendations, but I dotn plan on just taking a strangers advice and slapping in a cam I know nothing about. Please feel free to correct me here, but arent the lift and events just as important as duration? Im pretty sure Im just gonna get Ed to make the cam anyway.

CoSpeed. I checked your site for the trans cooler, but didnt see it under the truck/suv section. Would you mind posting a link?

Thanks

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

Yes. Give us just a little bit and we will put a package together for you.

As far as the cam, we build them backwards. We look at the lift first and match that to the heads then the ramp rate of the lobe for the intended use. Then we look at the duration itself to get the best fit for the entire engine combo and possible stall etc. Then we build the LSA and ICL after that. It may be a tad unorthodox, but it has never let us down yet.

Justhereforinfo

iTrader: (2)

Comp recommended their 212/218 .522 .529 112. That's pretty close to most of your recommendations. But at $400, I think I'll just have Ed spec one for a few more dollars.