can you replace the MAIN & ROD bearings with the motor still in the car?
03-21-2014, 12:35 AM
#1
can you replace the MAIN & ROD bearings with the motor still in the car? Well I've had the car (01 WS6 convertible) for 2 weeks now and so far....
1) It popped the trans cooling lines on the way back from buying it (a 5 hour drive from where I live).
2) The tow truck driver who picked it up, when the trans lines went, almost ripped off the front bumper when taking it off the flat bed, leaving a 1/4 gap between the fenders and bumper. It's not that bad, but STILL!
DRIVER SIDE:
PASS SIDE:
and now...
3) I think I'm about to join the spun bearing club.
Today, I noticed what sounded like a spun bearing, but only at high RPMs, at low RPMs, it wasn't there. I then noticed that the oil pressure was low so I put in about 3qt and it seemed to have fixed it, but the I noticed that if I accelerate too fast I can hear it again, but just slightly, however, if I accelerate slowly, I don't.
This is the last thing I ******* NEED!!!!
I take care of my sick mom, I am on Med leave from the Merchant Marines bootcamp so I am not currently employed and I just shelled out $4300 for the car, $500+ for the tag title and insurance and $400 for the trans coolant line fix. And then on top of that, my mom's meds are due and that's over $600. If bullets weren't so damn expencive right now, I'd just about
, but 45acp are not cheap, lol.... ehhhh...
I was wondering if the Main and Rod bearings can be replaced with the motor still in the car. This way, I don't have to pay the shop to pull it. I can't count on any of the local members to help me out, Hell... when I asked for help with my trans coolant lines, not one person offered to help, save for two and one guy was from out of town and the other just didn't know how to do it. Yeah, a great local scene we have here in JAX
Well sorry for the rant guys.
1) It popped the trans cooling lines on the way back from buying it (a 5 hour drive from where I live).
2) The tow truck driver who picked it up, when the trans lines went, almost ripped off the front bumper when taking it off the flat bed, leaving a 1/4 gap between the fenders and bumper. It's not that bad, but STILL!
DRIVER SIDE:
PASS SIDE:
and now...
3) I think I'm about to join the spun bearing club.
Today, I noticed what sounded like a spun bearing, but only at high RPMs, at low RPMs, it wasn't there. I then noticed that the oil pressure was low so I put in about 3qt and it seemed to have fixed it, but the I noticed that if I accelerate too fast I can hear it again, but just slightly, however, if I accelerate slowly, I don't.
This is the last thing I ******* NEED!!!!
I take care of my sick mom, I am on Med leave from the Merchant Marines bootcamp so I am not currently employed and I just shelled out $4300 for the car, $500+ for the tag title and insurance and $400 for the trans coolant line fix. And then on top of that, my mom's meds are due and that's over $600. If bullets weren't so damn expencive right now, I'd just about
, but 45acp are not cheap, lol.... ehhhh...I was wondering if the Main and Rod bearings can be replaced with the motor still in the car. This way, I don't have to pay the shop to pull it. I can't count on any of the local members to help me out, Hell... when I asked for help with my trans coolant lines, not one person offered to help, save for two and one guy was from out of town and the other just didn't know how to do it. Yeah, a great local scene we have here in JAX
Well sorry for the rant guys.
Last edited by RONIN LSX; 03-21-2014 at 07:31 PM.
03-21-2014, 07:34 AM
#3
To get the oil pan off, it has to clear the cross member. This means that the engine must be raised to pull the oil pan.
Even if the cross member and oil pan could be removed, with engine still in the car, when replacing the crank, it needs to sit firmly against the mains.
Maybe someone has completed this with the engine sitting normally, but I believe that gravity needs to play its' part, by allowing the crank to sit firmly, on its' own, against the bearings. For this reason, I would pull the engine.
With engine removed, you can still replace the main and rod bearings, without removing the heads.
Sorry for your misfortune. If we were closer, I'd gladly help you out.
Even if the cross member and oil pan could be removed, with engine still in the car, when replacing the crank, it needs to sit firmly against the mains.
Maybe someone has completed this with the engine sitting normally, but I believe that gravity needs to play its' part, by allowing the crank to sit firmly, on its' own, against the bearings. For this reason, I would pull the engine.
With engine removed, you can still replace the main and rod bearings, without removing the heads.
Sorry for your misfortune. If we were closer, I'd gladly help you out.
Last edited by gMAG; 03-21-2014 at 10:13 AM.
03-21-2014, 12:09 PM
#4
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You can replace the main and rod bearings while engine is still in the car. You do them one at a time, I have done it several times. For mains, put a cotter pin in the oil hole with the ends flattened to form a tee, then rotate the crank with the tee opposite the tang slowly till it falls out. Rods easy, just split them one at a time. A quick way to check for rod bearing problems is to shove them back and forth on the crank. The side clearance will allow them to slide easily. But if the bearing is damaged you will not be able to budge the rod. Blued rod ends from heat is also a sign of doom.
But you will never get the oil pan off to get at the bearings. So no go.
A spun bearing means the rod or main bearing bore is damaged and most likely the crankshaft will be roughed up. Engine must come out. To continue driving with a spun bearing is having a grenade with the pin pulled, only a matter of time before it explodes.
Now if it's a worn bearing you might be able to salvage it if you get on it now. Plus you can see if it's really the problem, it could be so many other things. Tear down time.
But you will never get the oil pan off to get at the bearings. So no go.
A spun bearing means the rod or main bearing bore is damaged and most likely the crankshaft will be roughed up. Engine must come out. To continue driving with a spun bearing is having a grenade with the pin pulled, only a matter of time before it explodes.
Now if it's a worn bearing you might be able to salvage it if you get on it now. Plus you can see if it's really the problem, it could be so many other things. Tear down time.
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03-24-2018, 01:53 PM
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Crank and Bearing Removal W Engine In Car Read an ancient post about this topic. Not sure which automobile the original post was on but on some chevy small blocks you CAN remove the crank without pulling the engine. Its a lot of work and difficult but can be done. Process: Drop driveshaft. Remove transmission cross member and support tranny tail. Replace bell housing bolts with long bolts and heads sawed off. Slide tranny back. Lift engine enough to get oil an off. Hard but can be done. Remove or loosen motor mounts as required. Unbolt torque converter slide back. Get oil pan off. Remove crap associated with timing chain. Remove connecting rod caps and number to get back on same rods. Shove rods up in cylinder to get out of way. Number mains and remove. Support crank and wrestle out. Disassemble takes 3-6 hours. Have crank turned by reputable shop. Finished journals should look like mirrors. Litterally. Reassembly just as difficult but you got it from here. Good luck.
03-24-2018, 11:25 PM
#18
This can be done, but I'm gonna ask WHY?????? There is so much work and hassle you would have to go through to do this you might as well just drop/pull the motor and be done with it. The only time it really makes any sense at all to drop a crankshaft/replace rod/main bearings with the motor in something is in the case of heavy equipment/tractors where the engine block is actually part of the chassis and you would need a gantry crane to separate and there not being a engine stand of sufficient size to bolt said motor to.
03-25-2018, 11:24 AM
#20
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Oil Filter INSPECTION TIME Hi Ronin, save some time FIRST.
Remove your Oil Filter, cut it OPEN.
Post the filter "grid" pictures here, ALL can then report the bearing quality/chance of a "spun" bearing.
A FOUND spun rod bearing requires more work like head removal time.
Lance
Remove your Oil Filter, cut it OPEN.
Post the filter "grid" pictures here, ALL can then report the bearing quality/chance of a "spun" bearing.
A FOUND spun rod bearing requires more work like head removal time.
Lance
