Well it decided to back out on the way home.
What is the best way to keep the engine from turning so I can tighten the bolt??

 

Put the car in gear.

 

and turn the parking brake on

 

That was my first thought. But I have an Auto.

 

Pull starter out, wedge screw driver in flexplate or have friend wedge and hold it.

 

maybe internal engine will help better
moved.

 

Like "toxic99" said, use a screwdriver. GM makes a specialty tool that basically does the same thing. You remove the starter and bolt this tool in it's place and basically wedges something into the teeth of the flywheel. If you were to buy every specialty tool GM sells for this engine you would not need to work on the engine....you could not buy any parts due to the fact you spent all your money on tools.

 

yea pull the starter takes 5 minutes thats how i did my buddys auto during the cam swap

 

i made a tool & posted a pic in a thread somewhere around here, used 2" by 12" flat stock and notched one side about 1/2 way up...open the center porthole in the tranny and wedged it in. Did a great job and only 5 minutes to make & alot less time fiddling with the starter & such.

 

Just put a breaker bar on the bolt, brace it against the ground, wire your starter in reverse, bump the starter... Oh wait, don't do that.

 

rofl

 

You dont necessarily have to pull the starter. Just use the service hole(thin metal cover) on the tranny to get to the flywheel.

 

Thanks guys I will give it a try.

 

Do not use the same crank pulley bolt purchase a new on b/c the one you have is already stretched. It'll just back out again.

 

Even though it was never tight to begin with?? Where is the cheapest to get one? Or do I have to get it from ATI?

Thanks

 

GM dealership has bolt about 4-6.00
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<


ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again

may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long >>>insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place

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hope this helps Johnny

 

Opps, guess I wasn't clear. The crank bolt is a Procharger crank bolt. Can't use the stock one. I'll just check with my vendor.

Thanks for the info!

 

Only ATI sells that bolt and its around $10. I had the same issue with the bolt backing out when i switched from a stock ATI crank pulley to the MMS. Previously i was showing #2 of boost now i get around #9. You also need to cut the ATI crank bolt 1/4-1/2", did you do this already when you 1st installed it?
also you need to use red loctite on the bolt and torque that sucker to 250 ft/lbs.


BTW, did you install the procharger yourself? it sounds like you didnt if you are asking how to tighten the crank bolt. I went through the same thing when my installing the mms crank pully. After that i wish i would have installed my unit myself now. Plus the ATI directions are sooooooo vague when it goes over installing the crank bolt it just says "use a GM flywheel holding tool" and the make you figure out everything else on your own for A4's.

 

The flywheel tool makes it easy if you're working alone. If you have a helper, it's just as easy to have someone hold a prybar into the flywheel teeth.
The ATI fastener is not a TTY bolt, it's standard grade 8 hardware, so it's reusable. Put red loctite on the threads and around the head where it meets the washer, then crank it in as tight as you can get it.

 

No, I didn't cut the bolt. This was a new kit, thought they already fixed that issue.

I did the install. It really wasn't that bad. I used a Impact to tighten the bolt. At the time, wasn't sure the best way to crank down on the bolt. Couldn't figure how the best way to keep the engine from turning.

Hence the post here.