AFR 230 heads on stock ls1 bottom end
#1
AFR 230 heads on stock ls1 bottom end
I'm looking at doing heads and intake on my car very soon. I've been looking around and want to know if anyone has ran these heads on stock bottom end ls1? I will be using a FAST 102/ 102 setup and my cam is .621 intake .621 exhaust 239/247@ .050 on a 110. Can I run these heads with a 65cc chamber? It is a 6 speed car with 4.30 gears in a moser 9 inch. Thanks for any advice.
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AFR 230 on stock LS1
AFR 210 a better fit with that bore size unless you plan larger down the road.
AFR does make 230 for small bore though.
Ported LS2 TB with power ring on FAST 102 much easier to tune for
Most tuners, and less expensive than NW 102 TB and again for stock
Cubes will flow as much air as you need to ~ 550 rwhp/7000rpm
Just my .02
AFR does make 230 for small bore though.
Ported LS2 TB with power ring on FAST 102 much easier to tune for
Most tuners, and less expensive than NW 102 TB and again for stock
Cubes will flow as much air as you need to ~ 550 rwhp/7000rpm
Just my .02
#5
This is what my tuner is recommending and he is one of the best I know in my area. I will be cutting the pistons. I just wanted more assurance from anyone that has had or has a similar setup. I know there's a lot of you that have a ton of experience with these motors and this will be the first for me doing heads and intake changes. I've had cam/bolton ls1s. I've also been looking at the PRC LS6 CNC heads and the mid lift number are so much better on the AFRs. I want to get the best performing head I can with the money I have to spend. I do plan on a 400+ci bottom end down the rd, but for now the stocker is gonna have to carry the load
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AFR makes a small bore 230 head, if those are the heads you found I wouldn't be afraid of them at all. Just plan on launching at 6k with a good clutch. That would be a stout combo if you cranked the compression up
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I think you would want at least 11.0:1 static. Find a dynamic calculator and figure out the dynamic compression to help decide where static and quench should be. Personally I would want to see higher static compression with that cam and head combo.
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They are still sitting on the work bench. I am currently running my lightly ported 241's. Decided to wait to bolt the TF heads on until I boost but still want to finish this season off running nitrous. Still dialing suspension, so far 10.60 on a 150 shot, there's a lot more left in it
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I would too. LOL I am boosting it this winter and have been so torn about tearing it down twice and retuning all over. I think the trick flows would wake it up a large margin. I have a build thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...ous-build.html
I almost bought a pair of small bore AFR heads before I bought the trick flows
I almost bought a pair of small bore AFR heads before I bought the trick flows
#15
Your building an RPM machine....a combo that will want to be spun pretty hard.
That means a few things but first off you will want to run around 11.75 static with that much cam.....you wont have any issues on pump gas if someone wants to calculate the DCR but I dont need to.....I know it will work and in some respects is required or it will be very lazy on the bottom.
Go with the big bore head even though its a small bore engine (the valves are more unshrouded and flow alot more in the lower/middle part of the curve)....you want our 1610 head milled to 57 ish cc's to cover the volume lost from the flycuts.
Budget permitting you should consider having me Mamofy those heads for even more flow and efficiency and while I'm in there installing much lighter hollow stem intake valves.....you need to be concerned with valve weight and the proper valvetrain set-up cause this engine is going to want to spin 7300 or so if you build it properly....it will blast thru 7K like your tach is broken if this goes together right and you have the recipe correct. Even without my involvement on the porting side you still need to consider spending the money on the lighter intake valves.....91 grams vs 120 grams is a huge weight savings and you get an X-squared type of benefit in valve control from the lighter weight components.
I would run a limited travel lifter and a stouter 11/32 custom pushrod.....stock rockers or better yet the Yella Terra Ultralites.....I sell a "Pro" version of that rocker set with 10mm stands and bolts.....super stout....super rigid.....more rigid stands means more valve action and more valve action means more net power.
Bottom line....this isn't a slap it together build and you make good power just because you order a larger higher flowing head. You have to build a proper combination because the higher flowing larger head on a small engine means it wont do much downstairs and it will only work upstairs if you set up the recipe properly.....if you don't do that your left with a combination that wont work exceptionally well anywhere.....not the desired end result.
Consider enlisting my help and having me build/spec the entire package....it wont be cheap but it will run like a scalded dog and you can be the envy of all your friends.....LOL
Seriously....if you need some help sourcing the right components no matter what the extent of my involvement is just shoot me a PM.....if your lucky enough to have a few bucks put away and you want to swing for the fences on this build I'm the right guy to help you get there. Proper planning is key and you cant omit any of the critical components. The package is only as good as its weakest link....in fact this is a common theme I see often as I look over various builds and their results. I suspect at some point the budget runs low and short cuts are taken and these folks always scratch their heads wondering why the Godzilla power they were hoping to build only turns out to be a pissed off house reptile.....the devil is in the details and you have to be fully committed, especially for a build like this where RPM and valve control become so important to the end results.
-Tony
That means a few things but first off you will want to run around 11.75 static with that much cam.....you wont have any issues on pump gas if someone wants to calculate the DCR but I dont need to.....I know it will work and in some respects is required or it will be very lazy on the bottom.
Go with the big bore head even though its a small bore engine (the valves are more unshrouded and flow alot more in the lower/middle part of the curve)....you want our 1610 head milled to 57 ish cc's to cover the volume lost from the flycuts.
Budget permitting you should consider having me Mamofy those heads for even more flow and efficiency and while I'm in there installing much lighter hollow stem intake valves.....you need to be concerned with valve weight and the proper valvetrain set-up cause this engine is going to want to spin 7300 or so if you build it properly....it will blast thru 7K like your tach is broken if this goes together right and you have the recipe correct. Even without my involvement on the porting side you still need to consider spending the money on the lighter intake valves.....91 grams vs 120 grams is a huge weight savings and you get an X-squared type of benefit in valve control from the lighter weight components.
I would run a limited travel lifter and a stouter 11/32 custom pushrod.....stock rockers or better yet the Yella Terra Ultralites.....I sell a "Pro" version of that rocker set with 10mm stands and bolts.....super stout....super rigid.....more rigid stands means more valve action and more valve action means more net power.
Bottom line....this isn't a slap it together build and you make good power just because you order a larger higher flowing head. You have to build a proper combination because the higher flowing larger head on a small engine means it wont do much downstairs and it will only work upstairs if you set up the recipe properly.....if you don't do that your left with a combination that wont work exceptionally well anywhere.....not the desired end result.
Consider enlisting my help and having me build/spec the entire package....it wont be cheap but it will run like a scalded dog and you can be the envy of all your friends.....LOL
Seriously....if you need some help sourcing the right components no matter what the extent of my involvement is just shoot me a PM.....if your lucky enough to have a few bucks put away and you want to swing for the fences on this build I'm the right guy to help you get there. Proper planning is key and you cant omit any of the critical components. The package is only as good as its weakest link....in fact this is a common theme I see often as I look over various builds and their results. I suspect at some point the budget runs low and short cuts are taken and these folks always scratch their heads wondering why the Godzilla power they were hoping to build only turns out to be a pissed off house reptile.....the devil is in the details and you have to be fully committed, especially for a build like this where RPM and valve control become so important to the end results.
-Tony
#16
First of all Tony, thank you for posting. I've already planned on running the yella terra ultralight rockers. Can u PM me a price on the heads if u do what u are talking abt. I do have a budget, but would love to see what you come up with.
#17
I will shoot you a PM later tonight when my day starts winding down
Cheers,
Tony
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Tony about valve weight? And rockers. I am not running Afr heads but yet ETP 215. I pulled the stock valves 130 grams intake and had rev make me a set of valves. End weight came to 60 grams. Dropped a good amount. I want this 347 to spin for days. Can I get close to 8k with stock shimmed rockers that the swip is spot on or no? I am still up in the air on the cam as it will also be a n20 motor and be at 12.5.1 comp. tell me what you think
Robert
Robert
#19
Tony about valve weight? And rockers. I am not running Afr heads but yet ETP 215. I pulled the stock valves 130 grams intake and had rev make me a set of valves. End weight came to 60 grams. Dropped a good amount. I want this 347 to spin for days. Can I get close to 8k with stock shimmed rockers that the swip is spot on or no? I am still up in the air on the cam as it will also be a n20 motor and be at 12.5.1 comp. tell me what you think
Robert
Robert
First off the only way 60 grams is even possible is if you went titanium and even that is a stretch (but doable with that small a diameter valve)....I will assume that to be the case. I would run some high quality limited travel lifters and stout pushrods....but the biggest problem I see is the manifold.....even a properly ported FAST wont be effective at that RPM.....the runner is too long. I would be more realistic and target 7500......if you really wanted to see 8K you should have went with larger heads in the first place and ideally a solid roller and a stout single plane top mounted TB set-up (not the elbows which always compromise output).
Lightening the intake valve like you did was clutch (not to mention mandatory)....pay attention to the exhaust though.....I bet its 100 grams or more.....you can get hollow steel valves that are high 70's and low 80's.
Good luck with the build....I usually keep a few sets of the lifters you need in stock btw....PM me if your interested
-Tony
Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; 07-29-2014 at 11:17 PM.
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Robert,
First off the only way 60 grams is even possible is if you went titanium and even that is a stretch (but doable with that small a diameter valve)....I will assume that to be the case. I would run some high quality limited travel lifters and stout pushrods....but the biggest problem I see is the manifold.....even a properly ported FAST wont be effective at that RPM.....the runner is too long. I would be more realistic and target 7500......if you really wanted to see 8K you should have went with larger heads in the first place and ideally a solid roller and a stout single plane top mounted TB set-up (not the elbows which always compromise output).
Lightening the intake valve like you did was clutch (not to mention mandatory)....pay attention to the exhaust though.....I bet its 100 grams or more.....you can get hollow steel valves that are high 70's and low 80's.
Good luck with the build....I usually keep a few sets of the lifters you need in stock btw....PM me if your interested
-Tony
First off the only way 60 grams is even possible is if you went titanium and even that is a stretch (but doable with that small a diameter valve)....I will assume that to be the case. I would run some high quality limited travel lifters and stout pushrods....but the biggest problem I see is the manifold.....even a properly ported FAST wont be effective at that RPM.....the runner is too long. I would be more realistic and target 7500......if you really wanted to see 8K you should have went with larger heads in the first place and ideally a solid roller and a stout single plane top mounted TB set-up (not the elbows which always compromise output).
Lightening the intake valve like you did was clutch (not to mention mandatory)....pay attention to the exhaust though.....I bet its 100 grams or more.....you can get hollow steel valves that are high 70's and low 80's.
Good luck with the build....I usually keep a few sets of the lifters you need in stock btw....PM me if your interested
-Tony
I Left out a bit of detail. 347 has a super Vic with a 4500 t/b. intake and exhaust valves are titanium. Heads have chamber and port. Work by A.e.s the valves are super light. No joke I was shocked as well. What brand are the lifters you speak of? I picked this heads because of the deck and the fact if need be it can be opened up to a 245. So if I need more head I just send them out. I dunno if they where a good pick or not yet. But do you think I can run stock rockers? I only ask because of how light they are.