What are the biggest cams you M6 daily drivers are running?
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I am looking to do a cam swap in the near future in my 2000 M6 Z28. I was going to go with the TR224 .561 114 cam, but now I am afraid that is too small. I was looking for a cam around 228 .599 114/113. The only cam I know of that has a LSA of 113 is cartek. I would like the duration to be in the high 22X's, like 226-228, and the lift somewhere close if not .600. I don't want to go with a 112LSA though, I am afraid I will lose too much driveability, although if that is my only choice, then I'll do it. But a 113 wouldn't be bad, 114 would be pretty good. I am looking to run 11's with probably ported 5.3 heads I guess? I would love to be able to hit 400rwhp with all the bolt ons: long tubes, cut out, pulley, LS6(or LSX) intake, ported throttle body, valvetrain upgrades etc etc etc. So what are you daily driver cars out there running? What numbers are you getting on the dyno and at the track? Thanks for any help or advice anyone can give me.
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Ive been extremely happy with my little C1 . My car is a true daily driver. No issues at all with the A/C on. Very nice on the street and fairly fast also. Times in sig!
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I've ran ALOT of cams in my car and none of them were "terrible" except for the 110lsa ones. That was just too much for me. With the 5.3 heads, all bolt ons and a TSP225 114lsa, you should have no problem making over 400rwhp. I daily drove a TSP231/237 112lsa for a very long time and it wasn't bad at all, another good "big" cam was the FMS 230/232 112lsa I just sold. The key is getting a good tune. Btw.. right now I'm running a "bargain basement" used MTI B1 cam (221/221 114lsa ) and I'm really impressed with the power it's making
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I have a single pattern 230 578 114 cam and its pretty streetable. Almost like stock when driving around. It can be driven in 6th gear at 45mph with 3.42 gears. Hasnt been tuned either. Like Gomer says LSA affects drivability. With a 114 lsa the cam will be similar to stock but sacrifices midrange torque. Im curious as to how drivable a cam would be with 112 lsa.
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Sorry Red91, dont mean to steal your thread but I had a quick question for gomer. Gomer, you sound like an experieced cam man. What was so bad about the 110 separation? Was the powerband too narrow? What do you think about a real short duration with 110. If you dont respond I understand because this isnt my thread but Im very interested in that type of profile. I apologize again, Red91. Thanks guys
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jrp, who makes the F4 F11? Is it futural motorsports? I tried checking their site but it is under construction so I couldn't find out and details on it.
NastySSoo, what are the specs on your cam? Nice times btw, thats impressive.
gomer, so you think a 112 lsa isn't to bad? I can deal with some idle surges and stuff, as long as I know my car isn't messed up, I am a little worried about gas milleage considering gas prices are skyrocketing!
lowETz, those are some impressive numbers! jrp said that the F11 can be custom made, what are the specs on your cam? That's amazing that your car hasn't been tuned and it drives fine!
dug, that cam seems to be pretty good and streetable, I liek the duration and lsa, the lift could be higher but not bad.
thechef, I agree, tuning will be everything. My only problem is that I don't know of any good respectable tuners around my area, I guess I will have to take a trip somewhere to get the job done correctly, I wish I could learn how to tune, with LS1edit or something along those lines.
ta325, I don't mind you asking questions at all, feel free. Just because I started the thread doesn't mean anyone can add on or ask questions, the more questions and answers and info the better. I am all for it, I know a lot of people have questions about cams etc, so no need to apologize.
Ok, well I am still looking for the right cam, it prolly will be a little while before I actually do the swap, but I am trying to get all the info and pick the cam out so I am ready. I guess I could get away with a 112lsa for a daily driver, what about hte high duration and lifts, how much do they affect driveablity? Also, what does the lsa mean if it is a 112+2 or 114+2? Hopefully this is the last question i'll have, but what do you guys reccommend as far as heads for some of these bigger cams? 5.3 heads? LS6? sorry for all the questions, I just want to be happy with my setup whenever I do get it, if anyone has anything else to add or any other questions, feel free to add.
NastySSoo, what are the specs on your cam? Nice times btw, thats impressive.
gomer, so you think a 112 lsa isn't to bad? I can deal with some idle surges and stuff, as long as I know my car isn't messed up, I am a little worried about gas milleage considering gas prices are skyrocketing!
lowETz, those are some impressive numbers! jrp said that the F11 can be custom made, what are the specs on your cam? That's amazing that your car hasn't been tuned and it drives fine!
dug, that cam seems to be pretty good and streetable, I liek the duration and lsa, the lift could be higher but not bad.
thechef, I agree, tuning will be everything. My only problem is that I don't know of any good respectable tuners around my area, I guess I will have to take a trip somewhere to get the job done correctly, I wish I could learn how to tune, with LS1edit or something along those lines.
ta325, I don't mind you asking questions at all, feel free. Just because I started the thread doesn't mean anyone can add on or ask questions, the more questions and answers and info the better. I am all for it, I know a lot of people have questions about cams etc, so no need to apologize.
Ok, well I am still looking for the right cam, it prolly will be a little while before I actually do the swap, but I am trying to get all the info and pick the cam out so I am ready. I guess I could get away with a 112lsa for a daily driver, what about hte high duration and lifts, how much do they affect driveablity? Also, what does the lsa mean if it is a 112+2 or 114+2? Hopefully this is the last question i'll have, but what do you guys reccommend as far as heads for some of these bigger cams? 5.3 heads? LS6? sorry for all the questions, I just want to be happy with my setup whenever I do get it, if anyone has anything else to add or any other questions, feel free to add.
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Ok, I'll add a little more here. First of all the 110lsa had a really choppy idle and shook the car bad, that got on my nerves, along with the stumbling and buck/fart it occasionally had cruising @ 1500rpm in 6th gear or below. It had really good low end and midrange, but from 5,000rpm on up it sucked ***. It was a 232/230 110lsa 106icl and made LESS hp above 5,000rpm than my baby 221/221 114lsa does. The tradeoff in daily driving isn't worth it. I have never had any surging idle or stalling issues with any cam I've ever ran, but I attribute that to the tuning I have been running. A larger cam with a 112lsa is very tolerable and the driving on it is fine with a tune. Some things people overlook when talking about street manners is a few things I've learned the hard way. First, look at the advertised duration of the cam, the ones with grossly large advertised numbers in comparison to the .050 numbers will idle worse than the same cam @ .050 with a smaller advertised number. Second, single pattern cams and cams with close duration splits idle better... IMO, I've had big splits, small splits, reverse splits, and single patterns and speak from what I've seen on my car. As it has been said a couple of times, having a tuner that will work with you and sort out your driving issues is a big plus. After all of the cams and all the swapping... when I order my next big cam I can promise it will be a 114lsa 110icl. Good idle, good midrange, killer topend, and makes the peak number. You can make up for the low end with gears in a M6 car and a converter in a A4 car.
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Red
112+2 means the cam has a lsa of 112 degrees and the cam is ground with 2 degrees advanced. ie: lsa + how many degrees advanced. If the cam is retarded the + will be a minus.
Advancin the cam give better lowend and retarding it gives better topend power.
112+2 means the cam has a lsa of 112 degrees and the cam is ground with 2 degrees advanced. ie: lsa + how many degrees advanced. If the cam is retarded the + will be a minus.
Advancin the cam give better lowend and retarding it gives better topend power.
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TTP Equalizer Cam V.2
Its Big, Its Nasty, and its not for everyone as Gomer made pretty clear. Mines on a 111. But it makes the power. I dont drive the Z28 every day, although its not a dedicated garage ***** or race car. Tuning is the Key.
Sound Clip of Equalizer V.1
http://www.ttperformance.net/cam/ttpcam.wmv
Its Big, Its Nasty, and its not for everyone as Gomer made pretty clear. Mines on a 111. But it makes the power. I dont drive the Z28 every day, although its not a dedicated garage ***** or race car. Tuning is the Key.
Sound Clip of Equalizer V.1
http://www.ttperformance.net/cam/ttpcam.wmv
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I'm running a G5X2 on a 112 lsa. I am surprised at how easy it is to drive even on a mail order tune. At idle the car barely shakes at all (the engine is another story). I have the idle set at 900 rpms give or take, and I can still cruise at about 1200 rpms in 6th gear. I'm still running the stock 3.42's, looking forward to 4.10's.
The only problems I have with the tune is the hot starts, I have to hold the gas pedal for 5-7 seconds at about 1000 rpms so it finds idle, and I think it might be running a little on the rich side. Anything between 1000-2500 rpms feels like stock, no loss in lowend at all IMO. When cruising on the highway from 1200-2500 rpms, I can't even notice I have anything other than stock, except for the valvetrain being louder. 2500+ rpms I can feel the huge difference over the stock cam. The G5X2 loves high rpms. I haven't bounced off the rev limiter yet but I believe it is set to 6800 rpms, I have only taken it to 6600 rpms. I'm sure fine tuning will squeeze out a little more hp and eliminate the hot start problems. I have just over 3000 miles on this setup. Dyno and track numbers soon to come.
The only problems I have with the tune is the hot starts, I have to hold the gas pedal for 5-7 seconds at about 1000 rpms so it finds idle, and I think it might be running a little on the rich side. Anything between 1000-2500 rpms feels like stock, no loss in lowend at all IMO. When cruising on the highway from 1200-2500 rpms, I can't even notice I have anything other than stock, except for the valvetrain being louder. 2500+ rpms I can feel the huge difference over the stock cam. The G5X2 loves high rpms. I haven't bounced off the rev limiter yet but I believe it is set to 6800 rpms, I have only taken it to 6600 rpms. I'm sure fine tuning will squeeze out a little more hp and eliminate the hot start problems. I have just over 3000 miles on this setup. Dyno and track numbers soon to come.
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I have the M2 cam in myt 102k mile M6. i ran 11.6 @118 on motor and 10.6 @129 on a wet 150. my car is 3600 lbs cam only full bolt ons. it dynoed 424/420. Haven't dynoed it on spray yet.
Cam specs are 228/234 607/598 110
My car has no problems at all with idle or driveability. it did cam surge a little with the 3.42's but with the 4.10's its all butter now.
Cam specs are 228/234 607/598 110
My car has no problems at all with idle or driveability. it did cam surge a little with the 3.42's but with the 4.10's its all butter now.
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TSP 231/237 with a good tune and you're set. I just had my 231/237 tuned today, and it runs great. It's a great daily driven cam IMO. Again, the key is a good tune.
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OK, I think I decided on a cam, the FM11 looks pretty good to me. The 114lsa will idle better though right, but how much power will I be losing over the 112? As long as I get a good tune, the car should be about the same driveability wise right? Thanks for everyone's help, now I just gotta save up a little more for some heads!
SUX2BU, when I was on the dyno, I did a pull in 3rd gear and it only came up with like 385hp, so I tried in 4th and it made 296 at about 5300-5400rpms, the engine stopped there and hit what seems to me to be the speed limiter. The car acts like it hits the rev limiter, shaking and bouncing the rpms, but it is only at 5300-5400! It happens around 115-120, I've had to happen racing a Z06 and 03 cobra before, I couldn't go faster then 4th gear. My guess is that its the speed limiter, and I just need to get it reprogrammed through LS1 edit or the predator etc. My gears are stock 3:42
SUX2BU, when I was on the dyno, I did a pull in 3rd gear and it only came up with like 385hp, so I tried in 4th and it made 296 at about 5300-5400rpms, the engine stopped there and hit what seems to me to be the speed limiter. The car acts like it hits the rev limiter, shaking and bouncing the rpms, but it is only at 5300-5400! It happens around 115-120, I've had to happen racing a Z06 and 03 cobra before, I couldn't go faster then 4th gear. My guess is that its the speed limiter, and I just need to get it reprogrammed through LS1 edit or the predator etc. My gears are stock 3:42
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Originally Posted by Red91vette
SUX2BU, when I was on the dyno, I did a pull in 3rd gear and it only came up with like 385hp, so I tried in 4th and it made 296 at about 5300-5400rpms, the engine stopped there and hit what seems to me to be the speed limiter. The car acts like it hits the rev limiter, shaking and bouncing the rpms, but it is only at 5300-5400! It happens around 115-120, I've had to happen racing a Z06 and 03 cobra before, I couldn't go faster then 4th gear. My guess is that its the speed limiter, and I just need to get it reprogrammed through LS1 edit or the predator etc. My gears are stock 3:42
It sounds to me like your car was one of the few that shipped from the factory with non Z rated tires. Cars that didnt come equipped with Z rated tires had the speed limiter set at 118. I forget what year they started sending all out with the Z rated tires, it may have been 2001. I've got a 2001 and I know that the only option was the Z rated tires.