Rod bolts
01-04-2015, 04:29 PM
#1
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Rod bolts I had my lq4 short block done new pistons bored 020 new bearings and rings I asked the machine shop about replacing my connecting rod bolts with arp's and he said they weren't needed because factory bolts looked good and I wasn't going to rev it past 6300 . Should I take it apart and put the arp bolt in ?
01-04-2015, 08:19 PM
#3
Its a dilemma really. I would have had the shop do it in the first place no matter what their opinion was. But now that's its built, it may not be worth the effort since it isn't a real race engine. Rod bolts ALWAYS get replaced when I build an engine. Even ARP bolts because that's all I use. Rod bolts may look good, but they have been stretched already and that's where things break.
01-05-2015, 12:37 AM
#5
Replacing the bolts in rods means re-sizing them. Stock rods can't be re-sized because they're the "cracked cap" design.
The cheapest set of Eagle rods are better than stock rods and come with ARP bolts-for $269.97 at Summit.
Carrillo rods at $294.00.
Even on a mild build, I'd ditch the stock rods.
The cheapest set of Eagle rods are better than stock rods and come with ARP bolts-for $269.97 at Summit.
Carrillo rods at $294.00.
Even on a mild build, I'd ditch the stock rods.
01-05-2015, 07:58 AM
#7
This has been debated a few times around here and the consensus is that the replacement rod bolts from Katech are the only ones that claim can be installed in stock rods without re-sizing BUT:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...t-claimed.html
so to play it safe, bolts should not be replaced in stock rods.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...t-claimed.html
so to play it safe, bolts should not be replaced in stock rods.
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01-05-2015, 08:53 AM
#8
This has been debated a few times around here and the consensus is that the replacement rod bolts from Katech are the only ones that claim can be installed in stock rods without re-sizing BUT:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...t-claimed.html
so to play it safe, bolts should not be replaced in stock rods.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-s...t-claimed.html
so to play it safe, bolts should not be replaced in stock rods.
01-05-2015, 02:02 PM
#12
01-06-2015, 11:20 AM
#15
Yea, I have been building race engines for a long time and I NEVER use Chinese stuff. I have used Scat and Eagle without any real issues. Yes, I have broken rods but that's part of racing. The rod itself wasn't the issue, normally rod bolts break or crankshaft main caps move around and throw everything off. This will happen at 8k rpm.
01-06-2015, 11:51 AM
#16
Guy I know that's into Oldsmobiles says BTR(Bill Trovato) doesn't like any so he buys Scat & reworks them, I guess it a preference thing.
I didn't see where he stated pressed or floating piston but Scat 26100927 are like $345 for bushed 6.1 on Jegs site (& probably a bunch of other places) which makes better sense than messing with cracked rods especially since he bored the block & should have it balanced.
I didn't see where he stated pressed or floating piston but Scat 26100927 are like $345 for bushed 6.1 on Jegs site (& probably a bunch of other places) which makes better sense than messing with cracked rods especially since he bored the block & should have it balanced.
01-06-2015, 01:25 PM
#17
Lol every engine builder I have talked to over the last few years, has said to stay away from eagle.
when I was planning my build I was looking at eagle kits, and everyone I talked to around town said don't do it
Everyone either recommends K1, Callies, or Scat in some instances
when I was planning my build I was looking at eagle kits, and everyone I talked to around town said don't do it
Everyone either recommends K1, Callies, or Scat in some instances