just FYI 2001 and newer LS1s share the same internals with the LS6.... and since I have a LS6 I guess my block is weaker... but I have no problem lending the keys to a customer and telling him to go beat on the car to see if he likes the cam... Guess I really trust Lou huh?

 

Predator-Z - Hehe, looks like you have a plan as well. I don't have an immediate cash fund to start building a new motor, but I feel pretty comfortable that this one will last AT LEAST another year. I plan to buy another vehicle within 6 months anyways, so the SS won't see near as many miles, etc. I couldn't have put this cam in at any worse of a time, summer time, 115+ degree temps, no good weather to race in at all. So pretty much I just drive like a grandpa and enjoy the low end power for daily driving, which is still a blast, much better over my last setup.

 

SSonyoursix,
I wonder how much the increased compression of the LS6 motor is helping your low speed drivability. A half point increase in compression can mask alot of the ills of a too big cam. I hope guys with regular LS1s noticed this.

 

LOL..obviously a few more than you. RPM is the number one factor in engine life with an NA LS1 motor...The load on the rod bolts is directly related to engine RPM. The rod bolts see no load from cylinder pressures! Its the tensile load that hurts them, as the try to stop the rod/piston from going through the head. If you motor has lived for 45k miles with a 7000rpm limiter, you must not be taking it that high often, if ever.

 

What was this thread about again?

Seriously, do you have to upgrade the lifters to use this cam? Suppose it is a 100,000 mile engine?

 

I didn't, 83k miles on my car. I don't want to take the heads off if I don't have to, you get to put all new **** on then, bolts and gaskets, etc which aren't cheap.

 

BIG TEXAS NUMBERS!!!!!!!!!!!!

As my car sits right now untuned for this cam, I am making 423 rwhp with the G5X2!!!!

I'm getting the final tune tomorrow and will post a graph when I get back.

 

Damn, theres sooooo much wrong info here I could write a book

Just the ones on this page...

The LS6 block IS stronger than the LS1 Block. Why would GM put a weaker block in the flagship Vette? Its been sonic tested to have strength internally wher its needed.

RPM and cylinder pressures both can kill rod bolts. If I hit a 200 shot of N2O at 3000 RPM (low RPM) and my TQ rises about 400 RWTQ (I have the dyno graph) in about 300 RPMs, youre telling me the rod bolts can handle that...lol Remember, with the excessive cylinder pressures pushing the piston down, guess what takes the hit... When the pistons comes down, it stresses the rod caps, since its what holds the rod to the crank and guess what holds the cap on....

 

Enough with the pissin contest. When are we gonna hear a clip of qtp headers with true duals spinnin to 7k?

 

As soon as Mike has time to meet me with my camcorder and then we need a friend to upload it to the computer.

I am getting dynoed Sat, I will tape it for you all, and idle, etc.

 

Cool. If you have time you should take some clips Inside and outside the car revvin through a couple of gears. That would give people the best idea of the sound.

Orange, what kind of exhaust are you runnin? I cant wait to hear sssix duals with borlas. Borlas have a different tone than most straight through mufflers. Does it have an xpipe? I could host the videos if youd like. Just send it to getoracing@comcast.net

 

I will do everything on the vid, in car, out car, dyno, rear exhaust, etc. I am running a Borla catback, no cats with Pacesetter LT's. I have the smallest Borla plate in their, it's still very loud.

I don't mind hosting them, but getting them off the camera is the issue I may have you host them anyways, I don't have too much room on my webpage provider anyways

 

Okay how hard is it to get your pistons flycut? If I go with say the patriot 5.3 heads would I still need to flycut?

 

its making it worse... our oxygenated 91 octane, which is close to the rating of 89 anywhere else causes me to turn the timing down incredibly far just to make the car run decent... My car is far from the smoothest running car here... Actually the smoothest is one of my customers with a G5X2 114 and an auto car! But he has quite some time into his tune! On a side note ive driven some of the X3 guys with no tuning at all to and from my tuner, or the dynos etc... drove fine other than a little stumble at startup! But my car in no way surpasses the LS1 guys as far as idle goes

 

Maybe more, however... mine all run. Im not going to turn this into a whos better pissing match, but if you feel cylinder head pressure is in no relation to rod bolts or rod bearings then you need to do a little more reading up... ive had 4 times as many cars die from nitrous on stock cam cars with stock redlines, or from just beating up the car on a stock redline setup than I have from my X3 guys going to 7000 rpm. You have no proof either way so I dont see hte point in filling the public with lies like 7000 rpm will blow the engine apart.

Oh, and FYI... my car regularly sees 7000 rpm

 

at 100,000 miles its always smart to take precautions like lifters, seals, etc... however we have a few guys with over 75K running the X2/X3 cams, and one over 110K that still runs bottle! He will be getting a X3 cam shortly!
Preventative maintenence is never a bad thing... Is it required? No... would I do it? as long as the time and money is there, I Sure would!

 

At least someone sees my views

 

QTPs just came in today... going on soon as my K-member & motor mounts get here tomorrow or monday!
I need someone with a camera that has decent sound though... and can rip the vids then im happy to post them... and maybe for a treat some in car runs on the juice for fun

 

For an experienced shop or builder its not bad, and the tool can be rented via mail with a core fee, then returned when you ship it back!

 

We are talking about block integrity. How many resleved LS6's do you see running around? The LS6 has galleys at the bottom of the bore. LS1's don't. For 700 rwhp applications, the LS1 is the way to go. LS6 has crank journal oiling passages, reduced weight (From the galleys at bore bottom), which makes it a better block for our range of Hp applications. But for extreeme racing LS1 is the way to go.

Tensile forces are what kill the stock bolts (Even though 01 + are stonger), It is not the downward pressure forces that make the bolts fail (Will kill the stock rings though), but the upward forces when the cylinder is back on it's upward motion. That is when the rod cap is talking the full load to keep the piston from flying through your hood.
I've blown 2 stock motors on N20, one of them from shooting 225 wet (Y2K block), which spun a bearing. The other one from a stuck N20 noid (Never will I ever run a NOS without a filter again), Massive explosion and a hole through the block on # 7 the size of an egg.