Cam Or Headers?
It's a good rule of thumb to start on the outside (bolt-ons, drivetrain, suspension, etc) then work inward (cam, heads, etc).
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If you're on a budget, don't forget that with the cam, you will also need new valvesprings, retainers and a good tuning. All that stuff add some $$$. And like frey51 said, you'll have to tune again if you do the cam first and add headers later.
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Eric D.
99 Firehawk M6
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
don't need to pull v/c's,front cvr,chg valve springs,timing chain
won't have a cork in the exhaust (manifolds)
i guess you could do the cam 1st, but you will be leaving HP on the table
BTW (since I say cam) the cam might be slightly choked from the stock manifolds, but nearly as much as people might tell you. You can still expect significant gains from the cam and then huge gains when you throw the headers on and the cam can breathe.
the problem with doing the cam first is either:
a) if its small enough to work with the factory heads and exhaust manifolds, it will really suck when you upgrade the other stuff
b) if its big enough to work with the ported heads and headers, it will be really choked up on the stock stuff
Hooker LTs and a Y-pipe are about $600.......then start saving for your heads AND cam (do both......60+% of the work of one is needed when you do the other)




