TurnerJ

So my 243 heads and associated gaskets are in the mail and I know it would make sense that while I'm in here to do a cam swap to see the gains anyway. I just want newer technology, of the shelf, but nothing that will cause a lack of valve train reliability and I DO NOT want it to sound lumpy or too American. This is a Porsche after all. What would you guys suggest to maintain either this sound or making it sound like a Ferrari would be ok too I know that would require an x pipe and 180 degree headers but maybe there's another secret that helps a little. Hoping somebody has something cheap used? Even a stock ls6 cam?

idle

rev in parking garage

Thank you!!

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I think an eps 222/226 115 lsa would be a great choice. It will have a little lobe but not much and basically do exactly what you want. but no cam swap is cheap, you need the cam, springs and pushrods at the bare minimum which add up to around 750 in parts

TurnerJ

Oh yeah I have 7.4 TPC chromoly pushrods and .625 TPC Beehive springs. There used to be a thumpr cam in the engine by the previous owner.
I will look into your suggestion. Thanks!

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Keep the overlap at 0.050 cam lift at or below 0 and you'll have a smooth controlled idle not a lumpy one.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Does it have shorty headers/stock manifolds or long tube headers on it..?

Btw, I go with a cam having at least -8* of valve overlap.

slogo

Listen to the Akrapovic exhaust sounds on youtube kinda non American sounding.

squalor

iTrader: (3)

Your swap uses the 944 transmission right ? What clutch ?
That amuriken lope sound your trying to avoid is the sound that goes along with power. Mid-range torque and the engine coming into tune. Limiting overlap takes away that surge of power, spreads it out. You get better low rpm manners, better fuel mileage, less fuel smell at idle as a trade for the loss of power. If you plan right, maybe a few extra ponies at 7000 rpm. Less torque could mean less strain on your 944 trans and clutch.

TurnerJ

Shorty aftermarket headers to fit within frame rails. 2.5in collectors with a y-pipe to a single 3in no cat and magnaflow muffler. I think.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Lingenfelter gt 2-3 would add some good stealth power and be really beehive friendly

TurnerJ

Yes it is the turbo trans so it is pretty strong but not indestructible. Good question on the clutch. What I remember is something like "12 inch kevlar 6 puck clutch" It grabs good and likes to be slipped the least out of my cars but is very streetable. Right now the rev limiter is set at 6400 which was actually the same as the 4 banger turbo that was in there. To be honest, I don't think I'd be confident revving that high. I think I would want an overall performing cam not focused anywhere in the rev range.
Good info, thanks!

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I'd go with at least a 212/218 115lsa (-15* overlap) on up to a 220/228 116lsa+3 (-8* overlap with a 43 IVC) .
Here's a few shelf grinds I'd consider looking at. I'd also keep in mind the possibility of going with a custom cam grind.
Comp Cam 54-424-11 (212/218 115lsa+0, lift .558"/.563") which has -15* overlap and a IVC of 41.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...-lift-212-218/
Crane 1449071 (216/222 116lsa+3, .585"/.585") has -13* overlap and a IVC of 41.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4924

BBATCAR

iTrader: (1)

^^^^ Something like this would be good ... and yes it cost this much to do it right with gaskets, bolt & LS2 chain.

My 221/221 115+ idles sounds similar to the video but with a deeper tone probably because of my Magnaflow.

Buy your parts a little at a time, that's what I did and in no time you'll have all your parts. Some of the parts listed are $40-$100, then the cam. After that install it and you will need a tune. Doing it correctly will leave the car reliable.

TurnerJ

Ended up going with a used SLP 51011 cam.
The specs are:
Camshaft Specs: Valve Lift Duration Duration@.050
in: .559" 267º 214º
ex: .566" 275º 222º
Centerline - 111º
Lobe Separation - 115º
Therefor: IO=23 BTDC IC=64 ABDC @ Adv
EO=77 BBDC EC=18 ATDC @ Adv
IO=-4 BTDC IC=38 ABDC @ 0.050
EO=50 BBDC EC=-8 ATDC @ 0.050

Paid $220 shipped cause I wanted it quick and didn't want to bother haggling. I am also having my head internals put into a set of take off 243s and I just purchased a dorman ls6 intake from Rockauto for $298 shipped.

Is this centerline close to the stock ls1 cam? Because that's what determines if I need to adjust valve lash right?

So I have a pretty free flowing 3 in exhaust with none of the factory emissions crap and no cat, does anyone think I might see 400 rwhp through a 5 speed?

Thanks guys! Can't wait to drive it again!

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

That cam should work good for you, but you won't see 400 rwhp. You'll more likely see in the 350-375 rwhp range.

Also, make sure to port intake manifold, and use thinner than stock head gaskets to maximize you hp/tq.

TurnerJ

So I'm a little bummed. My cam seems to have gotten lost in the mail. And I think it would have been perfect for me. Oh, and I got the pro comp studs for a 350 sbc which I guess is different from an ls1. The right pro comp studs are $120 instead of the $50 I was thinking. So I just ended up with victor reinz tty bolts for $40.

But now back to that darn cam question. But this one is a little different. Three options:
1. https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...9-ls6-cam.html for sale here. 5308 mean z06 right?
2. 218/228 .550/.550 112lsa. Lobes similar to a cross between comp XE and XER to give you an idea on lobe ramp.
3. 226/229 .575/578 114lsa

One big point to mention here that I need the most help with: On the second and third cams I can grind in whatever LSA I want! So if I ground in like 116 or more LSA into either cam will that make any lope go away without hurting power too much? Also, of course, I will have the car tuned afterwards, so how much lopey-ness can be tuned out?

Thank you guys sooo much but I promise I am learning!

BBATCAR

iTrader: (1)

I was like you worrying about the lobe because I wanted a more stealth, stock sound. Mine is a 115+2 LSA and sounds very close to stock with a very tiny lobe, you have to listen for it - perfect for me. Not sure how you can tune the lobe out but a 114-115 LSA I believe will be fine, with very little lobe. Sometimes I wish I would have gone 114+ but I'm happy none the less. With a 112 you are going to hear the lobe IMO. I recommend you reach out to Martin@Tick or one of the sponsors to ask questions and what you are willing to tolerate sound/performance wise. Martin recommended my 221/115+2 cam and it has power throughout the power band, low to high and good torque (40 hp cam alone). I'm probably at 370 rwhp with my cam and heads. He listened and set me up perfectly.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

The Corsa exhaust systems are accused of sounding like a foreign car, you might want to listen to a Corsa system to see if you can find one that fits what you are looking for.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Don't look at LSA to determine how much a cam will chop or not. You can have one cam with 116LSA chop a helluva lot harder than one with 112. It's all in how much overlap you have between the intake and exhaust lobes, and the general conscencous is that anywhere under 4-6 degrees you can have idle pretty smoothly and be able to tune out the choppiness.

My 2.5* overlap cam can be made to have no chop with the right amount of timing and RPM.

Tuskyz28

I want to say Dr.Gas makes a muffler designed to make a V8 sound exotic.... might want to check into that.

TT427

iTrader: (1)

Put Supertrapps on it, that will get you the shitty sound you want...