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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 08:10 AM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by NAVYBLUE210
Lighter Cluctch & Flywheels biggest benefit is in gear coming of a corner,
and recovery after shifting to next higher gear. On the street the criteria
in order to benefit is 1 lighter total vehicle weight, 2 higher numerical
Gears, 3 more displacement/stroke/low end torque, 4 more vacuum/
Less Cam Overlap, also where one drives there vehicle matters
As well, San Francisco Hills LOL! And stop & go commute traffic
Would certainly add to the Fun, NOT!
So in summation a weekend toy Vette with 3.42:1s, F body with
At least 3.73:1s, GTO with at least 4.10:1s with a high comp (11.0:1+) high velocity air speed Cylinder heads with medium sized cam relative to displacement With Wider LSA 113-116* is a baseline for a light
Clutch/Flywheel combo IMHO.

I do have Tony's RPS Billet Carbon Lightened Twin for my 396"
Vette Project in interest of full disclosure.
I have the RPS BC2 with aluminum FW 25lbs, the BC2 with steel FW is 36lbs. 232-236 comp on 113 and the 25lb assembly took extra time to tune for best idle. The BC2 with steel FW would be a better choice for street but my 99 Vette intended for roadcourse so the lighter assembly made more sense for application. The BC2's are strapless design which means you'll get some noise stopped at idle with clutch depressed. Car dynoed 452/398 at wheels. This was my supercharged car I hardly ever drove so changed it up for N/A roadcourse HPDE car as first priority. Not satisfied with TQ number but the cam chosen was off the shelf to fit time constraints for other mods going it at same time. Clutches are like women, you really don't know if you'll be happy until you live with them.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 11:40 AM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I would pay to see a picture of Tony in a mullet, denim vest, torn off sleeved night ranger shirt in front of a 1982 firebird with the chicken on the hood
I'd save my money for car parts and women.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 09:53 PM
  #243  
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Well I scared the living **** out of myself. Oil change to get the break in oil out and once she got good and hot, started blowing oil like crazy. I mean going down the road and everybody starts hanging way far back. But the gauges were all fine. I stopped and smoke is pouring out the hood. Looked kinda cool coming out the nostrils like an angry bull. But at the time I was too nervous to appreciate it

So I get it up on a lift and find that the zip tie I had used to get the O2 extensions secured had got between the oil filter and the housing, so oil was squirting out onto the drivers side header. MMS 220 Build for "Ghost Hawk"-image-2437964888.jpg


MMS 220 Build for "Ghost Hawk"-image-3853523489.jpg
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 11:07 PM
  #244  
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Oh man that would suck to just get the thing together and then think it let go.
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 12:58 AM
  #245  
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Break in oil? Thought you had a stock short block in there?
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 11:06 AM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by blk00ss
Break in oil? Thought you had a stock short block in there?
Use break in oil in quotes. Regular oil but drained after a couple hundred miles for inspection. Cause I'm paranoid. And cause I was running very rich pretune
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 12:46 AM
  #247  
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Nice build. Those heads look very promising.

What cc combustion chamber do they have?
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 08:37 AM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
Nice build. Those heads look very promising.

What cc combustion chamber do they have?
60cc. I'm right at 11.5 static compression ratio
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 01:12 PM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
60cc. I'm right at 11.5 static compression ratio
Should also make mention that includes the extra volume of the larger bore gasket required with these heads to clear the combustion chamber I designed (with more unshrouding of the valves). A standard 3.930 or 3.940 gasket would bump the CR higher than that.

Just a good point and one of those important details alot of people miss when selecting gaskets.....even shops

The wrong size gasket can hang into the chamber of the head.....its not just about being larger than the engine's physical bore.....the builder always must account for the size/shape of the combustion chamber of the heads they are running as well

-Tony
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 01:32 PM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo
Should also make mention that includes the extra volume of the larger bore gasket required with these heads to clear the combustion chamber I designed (with more unshrouding of the valves). A standard 3.930 or 3.940 gasket would bump the CR higher than that.

Just a good point and one of those important details alot of people miss when selecting gaskets.....even shops

The wrong size gasket can hang into the chamber of the head.....its not just about being larger than the engine's physical bore.....the builder always must account for the size/shape of the combustion chamber of the heads they are running as well

-Tony
I'm running a stock bore lq4. Would it require a stock bore gasket since it is a 4.0 bore?
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 05:56 PM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
I'm running a stock bore lq4. Would it require a stock bore gasket since it is a 4.0 bore?
No....that's just my point. You need a gasket that covers both the head and the bore. My chamber design is unshrouded for better low/midlift flow and as such requires a minimum of a 4.135 gasket. I normally run a 4.160 su the sealing ring isn't so close to the edge.

The correct gasket choice is not just about how large your bore is.....you must factor in the chamber bore size/design as well. I cant tell you how many shops drop the ball on this crucial detail as well.....its scary actually.

-Tony
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo
No....that's just my point. You need a gasket that covers both the head and the bore. My chamber design is unshrouded for better low/midlift flow and as such requires a minimum of a 4.135 gasket. I normally run a 4.160 su the sealing ring isn't so close to the edge.

The correct gasket choice is not just about how large your bore is.....you must factor in the chamber bore size/design as well. I cant tell you how many shops drop the ball on this crucial detail as well.....its scary actually.

-Tony
Hmm, that's interesting. So your chamber is a good bit bigger than the cylinder bore? I'm curious how that helps if you are going to have a 'step lip' at the edge of the cylinder bore?
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 02:10 AM
  #253  
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The removal of shrouding around the valve seat is vastly more advantageous than the lip between the chamber and bore. Sure it would be better if there was no lip but you'd need a bigger bore. Then with the bigger bore you can run bigger valves. You can see how it starts to spiral.
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 04:17 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by carbuff
Hmm, that's interesting. So your chamber is a good bit bigger than the cylinder bore? I'm curious how that helps if you are going to have a 'step lip' at the edge of the cylinder bore?
Exidous basically covered it above but to simplify it even further to help others better understand.....if you don't make the room and have the chamber wall on top of the valve, low and midlift flow is greatly compromised.....it has no room to escape for about 20% of the valves perimeter close to the wall.

As a head designer, if you make the room with a more unshrouded design, the additional air can get in and out and while the small lip isn't optimal (a bigger bore is ideal), air is compressible and can easily negotiate the small lip so you still took 80% advantage of the unshrouded chamber design even with the small bore engine (while a large bore engine would take 100% advantage of course).

Hope this makes it even clearer as to the benefit of a design feature I see alot of folks drop the ball on

-Tony
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #255  
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I hate ball dropping. . .
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 04:49 PM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo
No....that's just my point. You need a gasket that covers both the head and the bore. My chamber design is unshrouded for better low/midlift flow and as such requires a minimum of a 4.135 gasket. I normally run a 4.160 su the sealing ring isn't so close to the edge.

The correct gasket choice is not just about how large your bore is.....you must factor in the chamber bore size/design as well. I cant tell you how many shops drop the ball on this crucial detail as well.....its scary actually.

-Tony
right now im running a sbe lq4 with a standard gm gasket. with 63.5 cc combustion chambers. quick calculations say i have 10.3/1 compression using a 6.7cc dish in the stock pistons.

i wanted to go up in compression and honestly was looking to do heads soon. finding this new head you have has me intrigued , what cc along with gasket would it take to get me to 11/1 compression and would my f14 cam work well with this head? specs on cam are 232/234.8 - .599/.599 112 lsa 108cl 10 degrees over lap.

i will change cam when i build another short block so i dont want to put to much into this short block . next 1 will be 408 or possibly bore to 4.070 on iron block to a 416. i need a head now that will still give good power but great power under the curve with both set ups. thanks
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
right now im running a sbe lq4 with a standard gm gasket. with 63.5 cc combustion chambers. quick calculations say i have 10.3/1 compression using a 6.7cc dish in the stock pistons.

i wanted to go up in compression and honestly was looking to do heads soon. finding this new head you have has me intrigued , what cc along with gasket would it take to get me to 11/1 compression and would my f14 cam work well with this head? specs on cam are 232/234.8 - .599/.599 112 lsa 108cl 10 degrees over lap.

i will change cam when i build another short block so i dont want to put to much into this short block . next 1 will be 408 or possibly bore to 4.070 on iron block to a 416. i need a head now that will still give good power but great power under the curve with both set ups. thanks
Your going to be tight on P to V when you mill the heads for additional compression which of course is smart but your current cam has a fair bit of overlap and P to V clearance is always about how much overlap you have.....not lift which is a common misnomer.

I would take them to 62 cc's.....with a proper bore gasket that's .040 thick to improve quench, you would have exactly 11.1 to 1 CR.

That should just sneak by with the cam you have but you will be snuggy on P to V. As long as you keep an eye on valve springs etc., you should be fine.

And the 220 heads would work well on both engines of course.....they have plenty of airflow to feed a hungrier larger displacement build in your future

-Tony
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 04:24 PM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo
Your going to be tight on P to V when you mill the heads for additional compression which of course is smart but your current cam has a fair bit of overlap and P to V clearance is always about how much overlap you have.....not lift which is a common misnomer.

I would take them to 62 cc's.....with a proper bore gasket that's .040 thick to improve quench, you would have exactly 11.1 to 1 CR.

That should just sneak by with the cam you have but you will be snuggy on P to V. As long as you keep an eye on valve springs etc., you should be fine.

And the 220 heads would work well on both engines of course.....they have plenty of airflow to feed a hungrier larger displacement build in your future

-Tony
Just so I'm not on the edge, would i lose much if I ran a .045 gasket instead or maybe just mill to 63 with a .040 gasket?
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #259  
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If in doubt mill to 63cc and keep the tighter quench with the 0.040" gasket. you'll still get the extra detonation resistance. You can probably make up for a little (dynamic) compression loss by advancing your cam a degree and still clear the Pistons enough if you're worried about torque and midrange. Someone with a PTV calculator could elaborate more here but it's an idea...

Otherwise run more a aggressive tune.

Jason
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 01:04 AM
  #260  
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I agree.....tighter quench and less head mill is better but just think about how many guys had the LGX3 cams with milled heads....that has at least as much overlap as the cam we are discussing. Or back of the SCR a little bit like we just discussed but any cam in that type of overlap area is always going to be snuggy with flat top (no valve relief) pistons. Get quality dual valve springs and dont ignore valve train noises which could be a broken spring and freshen them at reasonable intervals assuming you drive the car alot.

Honestly with the rest of the combo this good we aren't talking about a big difference in output at say 63 cc's and the tighter quench

-Tony
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