That's pretty cool!

 

yep I have elite engineering one and its a nice piece but I firmly believe location is much more important than the can intself. The longer the oil has to cool and condense in the line the less work the can has to do, not only that but also the cooler air flowing over the can helps too.

 

that's awesome! I was planning to mount it down low like under the battery if I can squeeze it in there. I got a Mighty Mouse coming, and I got the PCV integrated can "guaranteed not to pass any oil"

 

Ya the mr2 pump draws a LOT of current which is mainly why I didnt try it. I figured what good is having no ps if the alternator is dragging the motor more? lol I have the truck alt anyway and it works great, bitch to get in and out though.

My bassani's are 2.5" which is really plenty for any

 

My bassani holds nothing back for sure.

 

Installed the Mighty Mouse PCV catch can. I wish I had done this with the initial build. It is supposed to not let anything through at all, and I'll find that out in a week or two when I pull the throttle again for inspection. I'll post some before and after pictures as evidence one way or the other.

So, I started with just the LS6 PCV, but it still let a lot of oil mist through, and I had this oil puddle behind the throttle. I have the valve cover ports blocked off, except for the one that goes tot he throttle for clean air inlet.

When I installed the catch can, I saw that the vacuum hose was softened and bulged out. The install took about an hour. I used 3/8" fittings all the way around.

After starting it up, I noticed two things immediately:

1. There was a huge blast of burnt oil smell, and then it completely went away. First time I haven't smelled burnt oil in quite a while.

2. The idle settled in much sooner after starting, and was running significantly richer.

So, here is what I think was happening. I think that the LS6 valley cover PCV was still letting a lot of air through to the intake, so it wasn't much different than running with a small vacuum leak. With the "leak" corrected, the fueling is now comparatively rich until it reaches closed loop and trims itself. I'll have to rerun the RussK idle config on a cold start to re-tweak the base idle airflows.

After the car fully warmed up, I noticed that oil pressure is running about 5-10 psi higher than it was. It used to settle in at 25-30 on the gauge, and now it is holding just below the middle. I know that the dash gauge is what it is, but during the build, I verified it with a mechanical pump, and it was close enough. The increased pressure was enough to quiet down some of the lifter noise. Not completely gone, but a reduction in noise. I found myself listening for it at stop lights. Driving around, it felt a bit torquier in the off idle range. At first I thought I was imagining it - the whole "I did something and the car feels faster" placebo effect. But each red light, I felt it had a bit more off idle and became more convinced it was real. I have no explanation other than possibly the above noted change in "vacuum leak -esque" idle behavior.

Only complaint about the design is the 90 degree offset between the inlet and outlet. Ideally, you want both ports facing the same direction if you have the LS6 valley cover. If you mount it on the head, one port will face into the head or the other port will face the radiator. A 90-degree fitting on the outlet would make it much cleaner.

Other thing that went wrong is unrelated to the catch can, but that damned belt is squealing. It had gone away for quite a while, but it's back and pissing me off. Couple of dabs of silicone grease to shut it up. Gatorbacks ordered for both AC and main serpentine.

 

Do you have pictures? Id like to do this mod myself

 

Pics or diagram would be excellent! I'm doing a similar build on an 02 ws6 and I have a mms can to install. From what I understand, doesn't 02 f-bodies come with the LS6 pic setup since they were built with the ls6 intake?

 

I'll have some later today. The intake manifold in the instructions pic is the LS6 intake, but that doesn't affect the PCV routing. The F body LS1 routing for PCV was the same for 98-02. Mine is a bit different, because I installed the LS6 valley cover - which, even though I didn't get the benefit I thought I would, I still say is worth it to clean up the engine bay.

Your factory LS1 has the PCV hose going from the driver valve cover to the passenger valve cover, around the back of the intake manifold, another port on front of the passenger valve cover to the throttle body, and a Y-adaptor to the PCV valve to the intake manifold. it's a real pain when it goes bad. The LS6 valley cover moves the PCV port to the valley cover, right under the intake manifold PCV vacuum port. The first two pics were taken while I still had ported stock heads on. Second two are during Mamofication process.



Here is the LS6 valley cover in place with the intake manifold removed. The red cap is where the PCV port is. Stock, it was in a rubber hose from the passenger side valve cover, which was very messy and sucked to work on.



Close up shot of the PCV port



Here is a side view of the PCV port on the valley cover with the intake removed. The hose is attached in this pic.



You can see the vacuum hose coming around from behind the throttle cam toward the passenger side. When I installed the catch can, I took this line to the inlet of the catch can. Then, I ran another line from the can's outlet to the port on the intake manifold

I'll have to snap a pic of the install and I'll post back up. It really isn't that complicated, and to me, it seemed to make a difference. Time will tell. For now, I placed the can mounted to the head. I'll probably move it later on. I had less than an hour to work on it, so I did what was easy.

 

FWIW our GTOs came with that cover. I'm cleaning up my hoses in the bay and found that that fitting can rotate a bit. I rotated the fitting back and down so I could run the PCV hose down along the block to my catch can.

Where are you getting your crankcase fresh air from?

 

What TB did you go with? And did it clear the water pump without clearancing?

 

I used the nick williams 102 throttle body. No WP clearance issues at all. not sure which post it was, but I tried to highlight that part of it. I think it has to do with the heads being 3/8" taller, so the intake is raised.

 

OK, here is the PCV and catch can routing stuff. Air goes from throttle to passenger valve cover. Then from valley cover port to can to intake manifold. Follow the red arrows on the second pic below.

the purpose of this photo is to show how much cleaner the passenger side valve cover area is without all those hoses. the red line indicates the area where hoses were routed from the factory



the red arrows indicate airflow directions. Also, see what I meant about having to turn the outlet side frontward due to the 90 degree offset of the fittings.

 

You may want to take a look at your fresh air. Under WOT when there is effectively no manifold vacuum to pull gases in the desired path you are also creating the most blow-by. Crankcase pressure can easily send the vapor up the fresh air tube bypassing your CC. The fresh air should have a check valve.

 

Should the check valve be between the valley cover and catch can or between the throttle and valve cover?

I always thought check valves were only needed for turbo?

 

Well if you think about it with no real vacuum both the in and the out tube become essentially the same thing and gases travel down both under WOT. You want it on the tube going from the intake past the MAF to the passenger cover.

I have a SD tune and thus the "leak" of not having air metered doesn't affect anything so I just use a breather on the oil fill port. Under manifold vacuum it's air in there (or out there under WOT), through the crankcase, out the valley cover, into catch can and then out to the manifold port behind the TB. All vapor then can get straight out or go through the catch can only.

 

Isn't the can you're using a MM PCV catch can? I thought the built in valve solved the issue he's talking about?

 

It did on his heads but on stock heads with a lower height they will hit. I had to grind my nw 102 which is what he has along with a little of the meziere on my 243's.
You may want to move that CC. Thats literally the worst place to have one. I know its the most popular but when its that close to head you heatsoak the can and also dont give the oil vapor much time to condense.

I ran mine like this and still got a little oil in the intake. I since relocated mine to the drivers headlight area and now it stays BONE dry. The longer lines and airflow over the can help the oil condense much better.
He's talking about the passenger VC that has the tube going directl to the tb. Under wot there is no vacuum and often a little blow by so oil will go from the vc into the tb and manifold.

SVEDE: where did you find a checkvalve that fits in there nicely?

 

Exactly. The MMS220 heads are 3/8" taller. I was concerned about this and spent time searching just to find out it fit perfectly fine. At first I thought I did something wrong. Further proof, I have less room between cowl and intake manifold compared to others with the 102 and stock heads. I want to say it was "Rise of the Phoenix" I was comparing notes with on placement.

I plan to. Almost every catch can thread I read said the same thing. I had less than an hour to throw it in, but I plan to move it when I have more time. I've got a few odds and ends piling up that I need to address, and I just need a good morning to myself to get it done. But I figured getting it in, I would still get 80%+ of the benefit at first

I was going to ask the same question when I logged in this morning.

 

That's exactly what I'm talking about or I should say the line from the passenger VC to in front of the TB between it and the MAF. A check valve on the catch can doesn't do a thing for that line and is one of the overlooked things with PCVs.

I do not have a check valve as I don't have that line but pull fresh air directly from the VC breather. I have seen 3/8" check valves for that but don't know where they got them. With what they get for catch cans they should have them with the kit or at least have that as an option to be complete.

BTW in my experimentation with catch cans I tried a condenser (little trans cooler) in the line on the way to my hidden catch can. It worked so well I filled up the CC with water so I took it off. I'm going to try it like that for a while