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Stuck on my 5.3 Boost bolt-on Build

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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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Default Stuck on my 5.3 Boost bolt-on Build

Hey guys I just made the inevitable switch from the import scene to join the dark side that is the LS platform. Real quick before I state my issue I have a Honda S2000 tubbed, 4-link 9", ATI Pro-TH400 w/Transbrake, and ditched my turbo F20c in favor of a cheaper more reliable 1000hp platform... which brings me to my question/issue.


I picked up a 02/LM7 Iron block 862 Head 5.3 with 68,000 original miles, everything has gone well so far.


-Decked and cleaned the heads
-Lapped the valves
-ARP Head Studs
-LJMS S2 Turbo Cam
-PAC springs/retainers
-7.400 Pushrods hardened
-LS9 Headgaskets


So I was getting ready to assemble the heads when a little birdy in my ear recommended that I open up the top ring gap from .024 to .028 since this motor is going to see a lot of boost on an S480. Since I had a little issue with some of my old rusted feeler gauges the first top ring got opened up to more like .034" which leads me to my dilemma.


1. Just run it with that .034" gap and make sure the others are .028"?


2. Just run it with that .034" gap and bring all the other top rings up to .034"?


3. Get another stock ring from a buddy off a used motor and gap that ring to .028" but not worry about poor sealing since its a used ring on an un-honed motor?


4. Pull everything, hone the motor, and get new rings on the factory cast pistons? If so what PN or link for the rings I need?


Thanks guys for the help!
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:26 PM
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Also for regapping the rings while its on subject should the second ring be regapped and if so to what for high boost applications?
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:34 PM
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I can't advise you on the ring problem but I can tell you that a LS series GM engine will not work in a ha ha Honda.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
I can't advise you on the ring problem but I can tell you that a LS series GM engine will not work in a ha ha Honda.


Is that so? lol Its actually a very easy swap, Im using Holley Dominator for the wiring along with their dash so the electrical is easy. As for the motor mounts there are several companies that make conversion mounts. Besides the electrical, motor mounts, only other stuff that needs to be done is electric power steering rack gets moved 4" forward (adapter plates available to buy), a cross bar in the bay gets cut out, and there is a sway bar relocation if you want to run one. Besides that there is no cutting involved and everything fits perfectly.


I have different mounts but this gives you an idea of what you need to do the swap if youre curious. http://www.importmuscle.com/

Last edited by prokaw875; Sep 13, 2016 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Double post
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 01:22 PM
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that would be one scary ride!!
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1charged
that would be one scary ride!!
thats the goal! Ha ha. I got the car bone stock with the 11.0:1 f20c engine (237hp NA) and had it with a bolt on turbo kit and made 587rwhp at 20psi and was a blast for years. The motors are fully forged from the factory and handle 700-800whp no problem bone stock. Studs n springs 800-900 is capable. But I had a full darton sleeved motor, CNC head, pretty much a $15,000 long block and was gonna go for 1200-1300 (few guys with similar f20c's are between 1400-1500whp)But had a change of heart and want it simpler and more enjoyable so parted out that motor build and got an LS swap. Plus maintaining is way cheaper and I'll just enjoy the car more to be honest.

Ive got everything to assemble the 5.3 just not sure what to do now that I gapped one of the top rings up too large. Ugh.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by prokaw875
thats the goal! Ha ha. I got the car bone stock with the 11.0:1 f20c engine (237hp NA) and had it with a bolt on turbo kit and made 587rwhp at 20psi and was a blast for years. The motors are fully forged from the factory and handle 700-800whp no problem bone stock. Studs n springs 800-900 is capable. But I had a full darton sleeved motor, CNC head, pretty much a $15,000 long block and was gonna go for 1200-1300 (few guys with similar f20c's are between 1400-1500whp)But had a change of heart and want it simpler and more enjoyable so parted out that motor build and got an LS swap. Plus maintaining is way cheaper and I'll just enjoy the car more to be honest.

Ive got everything to assemble the 5.3 just not sure what to do now that I gapped one of the top rings up too large. Ugh.
get new steel rings and gap them again
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 03:48 PM
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Ok. What rings should I get. Brand/PN?? Should I just do a quick hone by a hand honer too
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 03:55 PM
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total seal seems like the way to go
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 07:27 PM
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Scary = fun right?
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 07:27 PM
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I would leave the one at .034" but gap the second at .038" or so. I would also gap all of the other second rings so that they're wider then the top ring.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 09:46 PM
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I would grab a set of new Mahle rings off Amazon for the 5.3 vortec, throw a quick dingle ball hone on the cylinders to remove the glazing, and gap all the rings right where you want them and put it back together. I just did this on a stock 5.3 LM7. The rings are $37...Nice rings for the money. I trust Mahle way before Engine Tech or any of that cheap crap no name stuff for the same price. Here is the link:

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Last edited by KCS; Sep 13, 2016 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Non-Sponsor Link Removed
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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Yes the total seal AP series stainless steel rings are the best...but dont waste the money if its a stock bottom end. I am also assembling a forged LM7 right now that has the AP Stainless Rings...they were like $260 for the set.

BTW I have always wanted to do a turbo LS S2000! I love anything thats an import car thats turbo LS swapped. Best swaps hands down in my opinion...hence my turbo LS 300zx I built.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by roastin240
Yes the total seal AP series stainless steel rings are the best...but dont waste the money if its a stock bottom end. I am also assembling a forged LM7 right now that has the AP Stainless Rings...they were like $260 for the set.

BTW I have always wanted to do a turbo LS S2000! I love anything thats an import car thats turbo LS swapped. Best swaps hands down in my opinion...hence my turbo LS 300zx I built.
got any more 5.3s laying around? lol... i may have wrecked my ls1 in the flood we had today
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:20 PM
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I have a top ring gapped at .038" that was supposed to be .028". Keep your feeler gauges clean lol.

I've been running the hell out of it for a year with no issues. I don't even have anything hooked up for PCV, just open vents, and I get 0 blow by.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Cool thanks guys. I just pulled all the piston/rod assemblies. Gonna order up the Mahle 41859CP ring set for $38 and just gap em to what they should be. Also will throw a flex hone down each hole quick to get the cross hash back nice. Motor had under 70k so the factory hashing is still there but it will clean up any garbage.

Just to confirm for a max effort stock block turbo 5.3 build what ring gaps do I want?

top ring .028"?
second ring .024"?
oil rings ??
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by roastin240
I would grab a set of new Mahle rings off Amazon for the 5.3 vortec, throw a quick dingle ball hone on the cylinders to remove the glazing, and gap all the rings right where you want them and put it back together. I just did this on a stock 5.3 LM7. The rings are $37...Nice rings for the money. I trust Mahle way before Engine Tech or any of that cheap crap no name stuff for the same price. Here is the link:

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im trying to figure this out but is the $37 "ring set" for 1 set or all 8 Pistons? There's no clear answer. Part number is 41859CP.
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Old Sep 16, 2016 | 05:57 AM
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I checked that part number on Summit Racing and its shows as a complete set. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pcr-41859cp

Last edited by RockinWs6; Sep 16, 2016 at 06:05 AM.
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:31 PM
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I bought the set, and its a COMPLETE set for all 8 cylinders.
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:45 PM
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wish i would have found this before i slapped my **** together last month. I personally didnt want to spend the 200 on a motor i paid 150 for.
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