morel 5290 lifters
morel 5290 lifters Does anyone know if the pin failure on these was cleared up? I've read mostly negative things on these, but nothing with a 2016 date attached to it. I just ordered a set and am now debating wether to send them back or go ahead and install. Thoughts anyone?
Now the only reason a lifter has a tie bar is to keep it from rotating. If you are breaking rivets or tie bars then you are lofting the lifter because of a valve train that is out of control. This is easy to identify by looking at the slotted side of the tie bar. Look on the outer side and see if the metal is "rolled" out from the rivet smacking this area. Also the tie bar will show signs of scuffing.
In the last 3 years I have supplied over 1500 sets of lifters to site vendors on here. The returned sets I for inspection I can count on my fingers and not use them all.
The "rumors" from a select few about Morel are for 1 reason and 1 reason only....They can not buy Morel direct. That is the only reason.
Now the only reason a lifter has a tie bar is to keep it from rotating. If you are breaking rivets or tie bars then you are lofting the lifter because of a valve train that is out of control. This is easy to identify by looking at the slotted side of the tie bar. Look on the outer side and see if the metal is "rolled" out from the rivet smacking this area. Also the tie bar will show signs of scuffing.
In the last 3 years I have supplied over 1500 sets of lifters to site vendors on here. The returned sets I for inspection I can count on my fingers and not use them all.
Now the only reason a lifter has a tie bar is to keep it from rotating. If you are breaking rivets or tie bars then you are lofting the lifter because of a valve train that is out of control. This is easy to identify by looking at the slotted side of the tie bar. Look on the outer side and see if the metal is "rolled" out from the rivet smacking this area. Also the tie bar will show signs of scuffing.
In the last 3 years I have supplied over 1500 sets of lifters to site vendors on here. The returned sets I for inspection I can count on my fingers and not use them all.
What are the limits of these? After a determined search, I haven't found info on max spring pressure, valve lift, or recommended preload. It seems there is an abundance of hearsay on these, but very little in the form of concrete facts. Thanks for your advice and time.
Last edited by wph351; Oct 4, 2016 at 12:40 PM. Reason: grammer
Thanks for taking the time to respond. A helpful word from an expert is appreciated more than you know.
What are the limits of these? After a determined search, I haven't found info on max spring pressure, valve lift, or recommended preload. It seems there is an abundance of hearsay on these, but very little in the form of concrete facts. Thanks for your advice and time.
What are the limits of these? After a determined search, I haven't found info on max spring pressure, valve lift, or recommended preload. It seems there is an abundance of hearsay on these, but very little in the form of concrete facts. Thanks for your advice and time.
A .700" wheel lifter rule of thumb is that it should not be used over .375" lobe lift. Morel likes the max seat pressure not to exceed 150#. Morel improved this lifter 2 years ago when they went to a live axle that is used on their high in lifters. OEM lifters and most aftermarket are swedged axle design meaning they distort the ends of the axle to for a press fit in the bores. This works when a cam has millions of $$$ of R&D behind it because it is going in 100s of thousand of production cars and it won't loft the lifter as the valve train becomes unstable. Pictures on here from axles coming out are not the lifters fault, it is uncontrolled valve train.
So Morel went to a wire loc retaining system with a floating axle, much like your floating pins in your pistons. This is the best deterrent to keep the axle in the bore if the valve train is out of control. Huge upgrade for this type of lifter for the consumer.
Lots of good info thank you. Pardon my ignorance...are seat pressure and valve closed pressure two different terms referencing the same value?
I have .650 PRC duals which I believe the closed pressure is 145#. I can't find a spec for seat pressure.
Do you feel the 5290 morel lifters are ok for these springs and a TSP 224r .600 @.050 .353 lobe?
Thanks in advance.
I have .650 PRC duals which I believe the closed pressure is 145#. I can't find a spec for seat pressure.
Do you feel the 5290 morel lifters are ok for these springs and a TSP 224r .600 @.050 .353 lobe?
Thanks in advance.
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Lots of good info thank you. Pardon my ignorance...are seat pressure and valve closed pressure two different terms referencing the same value?
I have .650 PRC duals which I believe the closed pressure is 145#. I can't find a spec for seat pressure.
Do you feel the 5290 morel lifters are ok for these springs and a TSP 224r .600 @.050 .353 lobe?
Thanks in advance.
I have .650 PRC duals which I believe the closed pressure is 145#. I can't find a spec for seat pressure.
Do you feel the 5290 morel lifters are ok for these springs and a TSP 224r .600 @.050 .353 lobe?
Thanks in advance.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks for confirming that. I thought It was ok when the setup was decided upon. After reading a few negative threads from a few years back, I got spooked. I greatly appreciate the input.
I would figure another .012 on those .040-.050 numbers for block expansion when taking a cold measurement. That is how I ended up a tad light on a few cylinders. Expansion put me in the .038 range on a few valves when the engine was up to temp which resulted in a little noise. So if you are measuring for lifter pre load when the motor is cold figure to be in the .052-.062 range and that will put you in the manufacturer spec when the engine is up to operating temp.
I would figure another .012 on those .040-.050 numbers for block expansion when taking a cold measurement. That is how I ended up a tad light on a few cylinders. Expansion put me in the .038 range on a few valves when the engine was up to temp which resulted in a little noise. So if you are measuring for lifter pre load when the motor is cold figure to be in the .052-.062 range and that will put you in the manufacturer spec when the engine is up to operating temp.
Well I'm at a loss now. Called TSP today. The gentleman I spoke with was of the opinion that you should run around .50 on an aluminum Block, measured cold.
I've ran into another speed bump.
Decided to recheck my measurements. Previously I was measuring at what i believed to be TDC for the specific cylinder I was working with. The motor is on my stand, so its easy to get to TDC looking into the spark plug hole.
Thus time I decided to do Intake open/exhaust closed, and the opposite for each cylinder. I only had time to do one bank. I still had 7.260 dimensions, but I also had 7.250 dimensions and even a 7.240!
I thought I was loosing my mind. I ran a straight edge across the valve tips, and sure enough, a few didn't line up. The only thing I can figure is that my machinist took material off the seats on an as needed basis. Or i screwed up something assembling the valves and springs.
With seeing a 7.240, I don't think I can buy a set of 7.325 push rods. I feel at this point I'm almost forced to run 7.300.
Thoughts anyone?
I've ran into another speed bump.
Decided to recheck my measurements. Previously I was measuring at what i believed to be TDC for the specific cylinder I was working with. The motor is on my stand, so its easy to get to TDC looking into the spark plug hole.
Thus time I decided to do Intake open/exhaust closed, and the opposite for each cylinder. I only had time to do one bank. I still had 7.260 dimensions, but I also had 7.250 dimensions and even a 7.240!
I thought I was loosing my mind. I ran a straight edge across the valve tips, and sure enough, a few didn't line up. The only thing I can figure is that my machinist took material off the seats on an as needed basis. Or i screwed up something assembling the valves and springs.
With seeing a 7.240, I don't think I can buy a set of 7.325 push rods. I feel at this point I'm almost forced to run 7.300.
Thoughts anyone?
I've spent the last 2 evenings checking, rechecking the recheck. My longest measurements are 7.260. Shortest are 7.235. Most are mid 7.240's
The tips of the ones that are measuring for a longer pushrod can clearly be seen sitting lower...with the naked eye.
Can I get away these 7.300 pushrods??? If heat expansion costs me .012 preload as has been suggested, I'll end up with a low range of .028 preload.....high range of .053. This would be operating temp if .012 rings true.
I already ordered a set of mantons 7.300 11/32.
Any and all thoughts would be monumentally appreciated. Am I over thinking this, or are my concerns justified????
The tips of the ones that are measuring for a longer pushrod can clearly be seen sitting lower...with the naked eye.
Can I get away these 7.300 pushrods??? If heat expansion costs me .012 preload as has been suggested, I'll end up with a low range of .028 preload.....high range of .053. This would be operating temp if .012 rings true.
I already ordered a set of mantons 7.300 11/32.
Any and all thoughts would be monumentally appreciated. Am I over thinking this, or are my concerns justified????
I did that tonight with a new set of 7.300 pushrods. It was pretty consistent at just about 1 revolution to reach 22 ft lbs. The valve I had measured as needing a longer pushrod only required 3/4 of a turn.
I'm thinking my measurements are accurate now that both procedures seem to show very similar numbers. I may end up having to order one longer pushrod, or pop that head and have that valve sunk in a bit deeper.
Thoughts anyone ?
Sounds like your measurements are consistent, I would roll with it. I would not worry about machining the valve seat, just get a longer push rod or run it as is if its in range.