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80mm turbo ls 5.3 iron block build help highway street use
Hello guys, new to this whole ls community, as I'm a jdm guy that specializes in nissans, specifically 300zxs. Awhile back I got a free 5.3 from a 02 Tahoe from the shop I work for, it had an internal coolant leak I believe. I'm finally getting around to doing something with it, I have decided to swap it into one of my 300z's. I have the motor all tore apart now to a bare block. My questions are what is needed to make about 1000hp to the wheels. I have a good idea of what I need and I'm going to post in be classifieds for a few items, but there are somethings I really have no clue about. I'm used to jap motors, dual over head cam v6 twin turbo, so the ls is a big change for me. But I've been doing a lot of reading on it. Here's what I have so far for my plan, 799 heads stock valves, upgraded dual springs, some sort of hardened pushrods, stock roller lifters, stock crank, Lunati rods, hyperautic Pistons KB (seen on summit racing) race bearings, Holley high ram, 102mm throttle body, ls9 head gaskets, 100lb injectors for use with e85, arp head studs and maybe main studs, somewhere around 9.5:1 compression, new water pump, summit high flow oil pump, stock scu with swap harness, and a custom manifold set up for my turbo.
What I don't know is the small things I need, etc for heads, stock rockers vs upgrade, stock spring caps and keepers vs. upgrade, what cam is best, timing chain and gear, do I need better valves, what are good springs and pushrods to go with, best gasket kit to use, best way to hook up a accessory belt for alternator only, no power steering or ac.
I have to go with a custom oil pan and oil filter relocation kit to fit it in the car
Welcome to tech. You have a LOT to learn. First thing, don't pay attention to youtube lol
Oil pump: OEM or Melling high volume
Pistons: brand of preference I run Wiseco. FORGED! Don't waste your time with the hyper pistons.
Crank: you'll be at the limit for stock crank
Lifters: depends how high you want to rev it. LS7 lifters are pretty good
799 heads with stock valves...... why?
ARP stud the heads and mains. Crank will flex at your power level and need to keep it in check.
Timing chain: double roller
Gaskets: LS9 head gasket for sure. OEM gaskets everywhere else.
Front drive accessories will have to be addressed later, what space restrictions do you have to work around? Most with turbo builds use a bracket to put the alternator high on the passenger side. With the high mount alternator I have a very short belt and zero idler pulleys (just alt, water pump, and ATI UD pulley).
Upgrade the entire top end. Head castings, valves, rockers, retainers, pushrods.... EVERYTHING. Thickest pushrods you can manage.
Cam selection will be one of the last things. Browse around the sub-forums and reach out to some of the sponsors for cam recommendations.
Thanks for the fast reply, my plan is 25ish psi of boost maybe max rev 7500-8k, I take it that stock 799 head valves are junk, I have 706 heads currently, I will look into forged pistons for sure, my engine is a lq4 8 believe, so maybe Ls7 lifters will be beneficial, what would you say about retainers and rockers? I heard that I would need 3/8 pushrods over the stock 5/16, are the 799s good or should I go with like 317s? I have an okay abut of room but I would like the alternator to be down on pass side bottom if possible(that's where factory is) my car is extensively wire tucked, but I can extend alt wires. My bay is very shaved and I have good room for custom piping etc etc
My goal is to get a set of heads ordered this week so I can bring all my stuff to my machine shop soon and have him start cleaning and going through everything while I pile up parts for him to blueprint and balance a rotating assembly. I would like new cam bearings and all that so it will be a good strong engine. The crank has a lot of miles but low abuse. I know eagle makes a forged rotating assembly for about 1000$ but idk of its limits
Front drive accessories will have to be addressed later, what space restrictions do you have to work around? Most with turbo builds use a bracket to put the alternator high on the passenger side. With the high mount alternator I have a very short belt and zero idler pulleys (just alt, water pump, and ATI UD pulley).
Do you have a pic of your fead system? Cant wrap my head around reverse
rotation water pump and no idler pulleys.
Sorry this is a response to post # 2
I can't seem to figure out how to post to just the sentence I want to respond to.
Honestly the alternator would be best on driver side if it had to high up located, bc I want my exhaust to go out my pass side like I had it on my sock motor v6 set up not sure how to attach a pic. Just on my stock motor the alternator is located on the bottom of pas side. With power steering above. Stock 300Z engine bay is very trickey compared to most usdm car.
Okay it looks like I have to make a post that need approval first, it said after 5 or so posts I'll be good, does that mean 5 threads or can that be 5 replies anywhere
Sweet it worked that time, as you can see the amount of room with even stock motor with a full tuck is a bit tight.. I'll post a pic of one with the ls in it
Thank you, your magic I guess, but for the guy who asked for the working room, a few pics of the as with the ls, it seems as if the ls is actually less wide and less tall than the factory Dohc v6, witch allows for way more room for activities!
11-15-2016, 06:07 PM
80mm turbo ls 5.3 iron block build help highway street use 
