Initial test drive after cam swap not impressed
#21
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
Pretty big cam. Between the first try mail order tune and it sounds like you didn't romp it too serious I'm not surprised. Power will be close to stock until it gets up in the RPM.
I had a 230/238, built the most steam from around 4,000rpm. Took me a good bit of tuning to dial it in. A professional would be better and quicker but they would still need some type of logs to make it better. You probably have a good starting point but there's almost certainly more in it.
I had a 230/238, built the most steam from around 4,000rpm. Took me a good bit of tuning to dial it in. A professional would be better and quicker but they would still need some type of logs to make it better. You probably have a good starting point but there's almost certainly more in it.
Last edited by thunderstruck507; 07-13-2017 at 02:28 PM.
#22
Got about 20 miles on it today definitely runs strong at higher rooms .. you guys were right just needed to be driven a little harder ..
It does "chug a little at low rpms" which I would assume is the drivability problem that comes associated with a cam swap ...so if I buy a used HP tuners for 350 and a new wide band for 200 how much is a credit I'm not better off spending the money getting 8"credits for just over $800 or am I looking at the wrong set up
Can I to my Duramax with HP tuners
It does "chug a little at low rpms" which I would assume is the drivability problem that comes associated with a cam swap ...so if I buy a used HP tuners for 350 and a new wide band for 200 how much is a credit I'm not better off spending the money getting 8"credits for just over $800 or am I looking at the wrong set up
Can I to my Duramax with HP tuners
#23
Got about 20 miles on it today definitely runs strong at higher rooms .. you guys were right just needed to be driven a little harder ..
It does "chug a little at low rpms" which I would assume is the drivability problem that comes associated with a cam swap ...so if I buy a used HP tuners for 350 and a new wide band for 200 how much is a credit I'm not better off spending the money getting 8"credits for just over $800 or am I looking at the wrong set up
Can I to my Duramax with HP tuners
It does "chug a little at low rpms" which I would assume is the drivability problem that comes associated with a cam swap ...so if I buy a used HP tuners for 350 and a new wide band for 200 how much is a credit I'm not better off spending the money getting 8"credits for just over $800 or am I looking at the wrong set up
Can I to my Duramax with HP tuners
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Cb2417; 07-14-2017 at 10:51 PM.
#26
*my bung was welded on the driver side. Most guys say to weld it there as cyl 7 is the first one to go lean
Last edited by Cb2417; 07-14-2017 at 10:52 PM.
#27
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I just put a wideband AFR gauge in my ride as well. I went with a pretty nice once and it had a rebate on it. It was an Autometer #4397. Mounted the sensor about a foot back from the collector on the drivers side. Also important to use either a 9 or 3 o'clock position when mounting
#28
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
I'm not certain about tuning a diesel with hptuners. All I know is you need the pro version to use it with a wideband. I definitely wouldn't be getting on it too hard without knowing my AFR. I know mine was quite lean before adding to the VE tables. It took me lots of research and trial and error but it's doable for sure. If your planning on adding future mods and don't wanna pay for multiple tunes it's a great route. If your only planning on a cam and tune and done.... maybe a "pro" tuners is the way to go. I probably couldn't do or squeeze every last HP out of my car that a expert tuner could but I enjoy doing it myself and FWIW my drivability is good. Just some minor issues at lower rpms with AC on and other little quirks. Eventually tho it will get ironed out and it's safe air fuel.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.