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So I just got back from the shop who is building my engine.
It cranks but won't start because thereis no crank signal. They tried a new crank sensor but still the same.
they are saying that the new crank from WS6STORE is defective. Anyone heard of this or is the mechanic a retard?
In this pic you can see the two wheels about 1/16" separated My old crank the two wheels touch
It looks like the reluctor broke apart at the rivets and two pieces shifted independently on the crankshaft. Replace it and check the run-out and wheel clearance to be sure the new one doesn't contact anything. You can buy a one piece: http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/e...tor-wheel.html
That is what I was afraid of. That means that the crank was DOA. Unless it broke on initial cranking of the engine. The car hasn't run since installed. I got all my bottom end parts new from WS6STORE, I'm sure they must have some kind of warranty.
Hi Mikey, I too have witnessed the TWO Piece 24xe TW come apart.
A quality Shaft provider/Balance shop will "spot" weld the TW to the Crankshaft.
The picture I see does look "funny" as the TWO "steels" overlap at the face with the electromagnetic path closed by the lack of a Gap.
The HALL sensor would remain "LOW" at that point with NO COUNT given the the EMS.
I also dealt with this (DON at Callies) years ago with his agreement on TW to crankshaft mounting method.
MY ECU-882C, ALL other EMS (Holley, Motec, Pactell, etc.), "see" the 24xe as an EVENLY SPACED 24 tooth Target Wheel when correctly fitted.
My FIRST method, if in a cranking mode, would be to "scope" the sensor output.
The provided pictures are not clear as to what they represent ?
Here is mine. Although they appear more than 1/16th apart, when you look at it from the side you can see through the holes that they are touching. Mine fires normally, no issues at all like this.
Hi Mikey, I too have witnessed the TWO Piece 24xe TW come apart.
A quality Shaft provider/Balance shop will "spot" weld the TW to the Crankshaft.
The picture I see does look "funny" as the TWO "steels" overlap at the face with the electromagnetic path closed by the lack of a Gap.
The HALL sensor would remain "LOW" at that point with NO COUNT given the the EMS.
I also dealt with this (DON at Callies) years ago with his agreement on TW to crankshaft mounting method.
MY ECU-882C, ALL other EMS (Holley, Motec, Pactell, etc.), "see" the 24xe as an EVENLY SPACED 24 tooth Target Wheel when correctly fitted.
My FIRST method, if in a cranking mode, would be to "scope" the sensor output.
The provided pictures are not clear as to what they represent ?
Lance
Originally Posted by lemans1
Here is mine. Although they appear more than 1/16th apart, when you look at it from the side you can see through the holes that they are touching. Mine fires normally, no issues at all like this.
That is kind of how mine looks in person. The engine is back in the car that's why I could only take pic through the crank sensor hole.
I have been searching and seen in a few posts about relearning. Can that be something? How do I do it?
Now for Mickies picture, the observations ARE different, like a China copy of the GM 24xe TW. (crank picture)
The picture of the sensor hole with the crankshaft inside the crankcase looks correct.
The relearning, disconnect the Battery for twenty seconds or greater.
Engine in car test : SCOPE the Crank Sensor output pin, you shouid see 24 "spikes/troughs" per crankshaft revolution.
I would Sync using the CAS output.
(two channels)
Now for Mickies picture, the observations ARE different, like a China copy of the GM 24xe TW. (crank picture)
The picture of the sensor hole with the crankshaft inside the crankcase looks correct.
The relearning, disconnect the Battery for twenty seconds or greater.
Engine in car test : SCOPE the Crank Sensor output pin, you shouid see 24 "spikes/troughs" per crankshaft revolution.
I would Sync using the CAS output.
(two channels)
Lance
Lance, pardon my ignorance, but how do I check 24 "spikes/troughs" per crankshaft revolution?
And how do I Sync using the CAS output?
Hi Mikey, MANY here STATE that English is NOT my first language, TRUE, as my FIRST is Engine. (the language of engine tech)
Thus NO Pardon required !
Use, borrow, rent, buy an Oscilloscope.
I just bought another for $40.00 dollars (Hitachi) at an Estate Sale including TWO probes. (100.00 each if new)
The OLD ONES are BEST for Automotive use AND they have a CRT.
Most are TWO Channel scopes, the one I just bought was FOUR Channel !
The NEW cost in the year first sold was $2600.00
The first channel is the output wire from the crankshaft sensor and ground connected to the probe.
The second channel is connected the the Camshaft Angle Sensor (CAS) in the same way.
The Sync will show the First TW tooth after the 1/2 Moon, then EACH tooth can be observed as a "peak" counting 48 peaks within the engine cycle.
Hi Mikey, MANY here STATE that English is NOT my first language, TRUE, as my FIRST is Engine. (the language of engine tech)
Thus NO Pardon required !
Use, borrow, rent, buy an Oscilloscope.
I just bought another for $40.00 dollars (Hitachi) at an Estate Sale including TWO probes. (100.00 each if new)
The OLD ONES are BEST for Automotive use AND they have a CRT.
Most are TWO Channel scopes, the one I just bought was FOUR Channel !
The NEW cost in the year first sold was $2600.00
The first channel is the output wire from the crankshaft sensor and ground connected to the probe.
The second channel is connected the the Camshaft Angle Sensor (CAS) in the same way.
The Sync will show the First TW tooth after the 1/2 Moon, then EACH tooth can be observed as a "peak" counting 48 peaks within the engine cycle.
Did I do better to explain ?
Lance
Thanks! I'm going to look into it. I have a list of things to check on Monday. I will post how it went.
To me the pic looks like the engine builder nicked a tooth on the reluctor when he set the crank in. From the pic it looks like the 1 tooth is bent. It's easy to Nick a tooth if not careful dropping the crank in. It's tight in there.
To me the pic looks like the engine builder nicked a tooth on the reluctor when he set the crank in. From the pic it looks like the 1 tooth is bent. It's easy to Nick a tooth if not careful dropping the crank in. It's tight in there.
I doubt it, the Tooth that looks bent in, is the inside (closest to the crank), I could possibly
see the outside tooth bent or both, but only if you tossed the crank in from the
other side of the room, looks like OP got a junk piece, possibly cheap Chinese
crap.
OP have you contacted Vendor?
Now for Mickies picture, the observations ARE different, like a China copy of the GM 24xe TW. (crank picture)
The picture of the sensor hole with the crankshaft inside the crankcase looks correct.
The relearning, disconnect the Battery for twenty seconds or greater.
Engine in car test : SCOPE the Crank Sensor output pin, you shouid see 24 "spikes/troughs" per crankshaft revolution.
I would Sync using the CAS output.
(two channels)
Lance
This.
Having a scope and more importantly knowing how to use it will diagnose problems faster and more accurately than the internet can.
Ok guys, we found out the culprit...a bent reluctor wheel.
Apparently the crank got bent in delivery and the shop thought it wouldn't affect it. Now I'm waiting on a new crank.
Thanks for everyone's imput and help.
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Crank/reluctor wheel question 
