** PICS INCLUDED**took my oil pan/windage off 5.3 and seen this
10-14-2017, 07:48 PM
#1
** PICS INCLUDED**took my oil pan/windage off 5.3 and seen this I bought this 5.3 two months ago, but just got around to checking bottom end. This is what I seen...
Is this normal???
There also was a small amount of water in oil pan as you can see..
What do you guys think?
Is this normal???
There also was a small amount of water in oil pan as you can see..
What do you guys think?
10-14-2017, 07:59 PM
#3
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Yikes! This thing been in a fire? That’s a good example of why it’s important to change your oil...regularly.
Trending Topics
10-15-2017, 08:39 PM
#9
Looks like a typical junkyard LS. I had an iron 6.0 that was a lot worse than that and you could put a preacher bar, 5 foot pipe with someone sitting on it and it wouldn't turn over. Tore it all apart, bearings were trashed but it cleaned up amazingly and was all verified by the engine shop that I use. It's now a 408 in my car now.
I personally wouldn't be scared of it if it turned over and there is no metal in the pan. Take it apart and check it out.
I personally wouldn't be scared of it if it turned over and there is no metal in the pan. Take it apart and check it out.
10-15-2017, 08:58 PM
#10
Looks like a typical junkyard LS. I had an iron 6.0 that was a lot worse than that and you could put a preacher bar, 5 foot pipe with someone sitting on it and it wouldn't turn over. Tore it all apart, bearings were trashed but it cleaned up amazingly and was all verified by the engine shop that I use. It's now a 408 in my car now.
I personally wouldn't be scared of it if it turned over and there is no metal in the pan. Take it apart and check it out.
I personally wouldn't be scared of it if it turned over and there is no metal in the pan. Take it apart and check it out.
The 4.8 looks better than the 5.3. I might just move forward with that one...
How long has your 408 been holding up? I eventually want to get to that point..
10-15-2017, 11:45 PM
#11
Lol, that's a good question.....
So far, 2500 miles, but it has been apart twice, and multiple sets of heads / intakes. Been one headache after another.
Aftermarket Crank came with a bent reluctor wheel which needed replaced.
Built it, ran for 1000 miles and started a lifter tick. Had to pull the heads to upgrade the lifters and found that my prototype rockers were eating through the bearings and trunions and sent bearing material throughout the motor. Had to pull it all apart and clean everything really good. Messed up 2 crank bearings and had to get crank repolished and new bearings. Got it back together and...
90 miles later the reluctor wheel spun. Tore it all apart again and had to get a billet wheel welded to the crank to avoid that nonsense again. I then decided to upgrade heads since what I was running really was too small. Besides my first fast intake base warping pretty bad, my second one did it. Valve cover spacers leaking which had me upgrade valve covers, which have the stock gasket pop over the side because the outside shape of the head is different from factory. Had to modify a lot of parts to work right, not counting blowing some oil smoke on decel only with plugs clean as new, and oil in the intake without any pcv setup so no vacuum pulling it in.
Tested everything and it makes good power, only thing we have concluded was that cam profile is pulling oil. Seems to be a lot more common then I thought with these motors. So after a lot of research, I will be running a vacuum pump and see what changes there.
Tons of little problems not listed. Big headache and a lot of downtime and hoping to be getting to the end of the problems soon. A lot of money and stress for sure. I go over parts a lot more detailed then most people and still had a lot of problems. But I now can turn the key and beat on it now, but ready for more power.
So far, 2500 miles, but it has been apart twice, and multiple sets of heads / intakes. Been one headache after another.
Aftermarket Crank came with a bent reluctor wheel which needed replaced.
Built it, ran for 1000 miles and started a lifter tick. Had to pull the heads to upgrade the lifters and found that my prototype rockers were eating through the bearings and trunions and sent bearing material throughout the motor. Had to pull it all apart and clean everything really good. Messed up 2 crank bearings and had to get crank repolished and new bearings. Got it back together and...
90 miles later the reluctor wheel spun. Tore it all apart again and had to get a billet wheel welded to the crank to avoid that nonsense again. I then decided to upgrade heads since what I was running really was too small. Besides my first fast intake base warping pretty bad, my second one did it. Valve cover spacers leaking which had me upgrade valve covers, which have the stock gasket pop over the side because the outside shape of the head is different from factory. Had to modify a lot of parts to work right, not counting blowing some oil smoke on decel only with plugs clean as new, and oil in the intake without any pcv setup so no vacuum pulling it in.
Tested everything and it makes good power, only thing we have concluded was that cam profile is pulling oil. Seems to be a lot more common then I thought with these motors. So after a lot of research, I will be running a vacuum pump and see what changes there.
Tons of little problems not listed. Big headache and a lot of downtime and hoping to be getting to the end of the problems soon. A lot of money and stress for sure. I go over parts a lot more detailed then most people and still had a lot of problems. But I now can turn the key and beat on it now, but ready for more power.
10-16-2017, 05:41 PM
#12
Lol, that's a good question.....
So far, 2500 miles, but it has been apart twice, and multiple sets of heads / intakes. Been one headache after another.
Aftermarket Crank came with a bent reluctor wheel which needed replaced.
Built it, ran for 1000 miles and started a lifter tick. Had to pull the heads to upgrade the lifters and found that my prototype rockers were eating through the bearings and trunions and sent bearing material throughout the motor. Had to pull it all apart and clean everything really good. Messed up 2 crank bearings and had to get crank repolished and new bearings. Got it back together and...
90 miles later the reluctor wheel spun. Tore it all apart again and had to get a billet wheel welded to the crank to avoid that nonsense again. I then decided to upgrade heads since what I was running really was too small. Besides my first fast intake base warping pretty bad, my second one did it. Valve cover spacers leaking which had me upgrade valve covers, which have the stock gasket pop over the side because the outside shape of the head is different from factory. Had to modify a lot of parts to work right, not counting blowing some oil smoke on decel only with plugs clean as new, and oil in the intake without any pcv setup so no vacuum pulling it in.
Tested everything and it makes good power, only thing we have concluded was that cam profile is pulling oil. Seems to be a lot more common then I thought with these motors. So after a lot of research, I will be running a vacuum pump and see what changes there.
Tons of little problems not listed. Big headache and a lot of downtime and hoping to be getting to the end of the problems soon. A lot of money and stress for sure. I go over parts a lot more detailed then most people and still had a lot of problems. But I now can turn the key and beat on it now, but ready for more power.
So far, 2500 miles, but it has been apart twice, and multiple sets of heads / intakes. Been one headache after another.
Aftermarket Crank came with a bent reluctor wheel which needed replaced.
Built it, ran for 1000 miles and started a lifter tick. Had to pull the heads to upgrade the lifters and found that my prototype rockers were eating through the bearings and trunions and sent bearing material throughout the motor. Had to pull it all apart and clean everything really good. Messed up 2 crank bearings and had to get crank repolished and new bearings. Got it back together and...
90 miles later the reluctor wheel spun. Tore it all apart again and had to get a billet wheel welded to the crank to avoid that nonsense again. I then decided to upgrade heads since what I was running really was too small. Besides my first fast intake base warping pretty bad, my second one did it. Valve cover spacers leaking which had me upgrade valve covers, which have the stock gasket pop over the side because the outside shape of the head is different from factory. Had to modify a lot of parts to work right, not counting blowing some oil smoke on decel only with plugs clean as new, and oil in the intake without any pcv setup so no vacuum pulling it in.
Tested everything and it makes good power, only thing we have concluded was that cam profile is pulling oil. Seems to be a lot more common then I thought with these motors. So after a lot of research, I will be running a vacuum pump and see what changes there.
Tons of little problems not listed. Big headache and a lot of downtime and hoping to be getting to the end of the problems soon. A lot of money and stress for sure. I go over parts a lot more detailed then most people and still had a lot of problems. But I now can turn the key and beat on it now, but ready for more power.
Do you think that the headaches comes with just being a stroker or what? I heard that strokers dont last long or something... Something about strokers should always be tall deck blocks...
10-16-2017, 07:14 PM
#13
90% of my problems are not because of a stroked motor. That's stuff you will find with building any motor. I have OCD and go over parts multiple times and I see a lot. I got a new ported oil pump that came full of metal shavings, new valves with tip ground crooked, parts that are supposed to be clean and ready to install have metal that will ruin a motor. Just had new valve covers that had shitty coating on the port tubes that if I didn't notice, would send big chunks of metal through my motor. Rockers that I use I personally didn't like the amount of thread engagement, so I used a bottoming tap and grabbed a few more threads and purchased the same bolts but longer and modified them for more thread engagement. There have been zero problems with anyone and rocker bolts, but for piece of mind I did that anyways. Even shimming rockers, I am not a fan of multiple or single washers as shims because it's too easy to drop one and fall in the motor and then you get to have that fun. I measure them up, get or grind the exact thickness for the best pattern, mill them out and have a one piece shim that shims the pair in one shot eliminating that fear.
You have to go through everything with a fine tooth comb and it's best to do before you put it together. The only problem that I would attribute to my oil in the intake may be how aggressive my cam and valve events are. I was thinking possibly cylinder wall finish, but I don't have the crazy smoking issues that wrong surface finish seems to show, and the machine shop that I use had done a bunch of LS motors for others and a friend and I've never heard of any problems there and has been building motors for the last 40+ years. The ring set I did get gave zero specs for wall finish, but the ones for my brothers motor is specific on what finish they want. I do need to watch how much oil is dissapearing, but what should an aggressive motor's oil consumption limit be before it is considered too much? All depends on how you drive it, too many factors. I know that I used around 1/4 quart of oil on hours of idle time and 10+ 6700 rpm dyno blasts and 2 hours of driving, but who knows. Runs amazing now and makes the power it should and never fouls plugs.
Oil consumption problems with strokes motors has been improved, used to read people say that the piston come out of the cylinder too far and rock and pull oil, but talking with the piston manufacturer that I used, they fixed that with piston height.
Pay attention to everything, research as much as you can and triple check things. Best advice I can give. When going stroker, it can get crazy expensive fast. When I first started this I scored a whole 6.0 s 4l80e setup with every harness, computer, everything for dirt cheap and sold everything minus the block and made hundreds in profit selling what I didn't need and thought this was going to be cheap, free block and extra cash. I had a rude awakening very soon lol
You have to go through everything with a fine tooth comb and it's best to do before you put it together. The only problem that I would attribute to my oil in the intake may be how aggressive my cam and valve events are. I was thinking possibly cylinder wall finish, but I don't have the crazy smoking issues that wrong surface finish seems to show, and the machine shop that I use had done a bunch of LS motors for others and a friend and I've never heard of any problems there and has been building motors for the last 40+ years. The ring set I did get gave zero specs for wall finish, but the ones for my brothers motor is specific on what finish they want. I do need to watch how much oil is dissapearing, but what should an aggressive motor's oil consumption limit be before it is considered too much? All depends on how you drive it, too many factors. I know that I used around 1/4 quart of oil on hours of idle time and 10+ 6700 rpm dyno blasts and 2 hours of driving, but who knows. Runs amazing now and makes the power it should and never fouls plugs.
Oil consumption problems with strokes motors has been improved, used to read people say that the piston come out of the cylinder too far and rock and pull oil, but talking with the piston manufacturer that I used, they fixed that with piston height.
Pay attention to everything, research as much as you can and triple check things. Best advice I can give. When going stroker, it can get crazy expensive fast. When I first started this I scored a whole 6.0 s 4l80e setup with every harness, computer, everything for dirt cheap and sold everything minus the block and made hundreds in profit selling what I didn't need and thought this was going to be cheap, free block and extra cash. I had a rude awakening very soon lol
10-21-2017, 07:26 AM
#15
go to sloppymechanics early vids and see some of the crap 4.8/5.3 he turbo'ed and made good power with. IMHO if you want one and done do a GM crate , but that takes the fun out of it. have a 6.0 project on the stand myself.