Head swap... Motor in or out?
Head swap... Motor in or out? A good friend of mine used to work at an LS1 shop, and said he can get the motor out in 1.5 hours. So... If all I am doing is heads, is it worth it to drop the motor, or just do the swap with the motor in? I have Stage 8 locking header bolts and 1 7/8 headers.
From everything I have read, and experience with r/r on an intake, it seems like it would be about the same time.
From everything I have read, and experience with r/r on an intake, it seems like it would be about the same time.
Most F body guys do H/C swaps with the motor in the car...if you happen to have the resources of a hoist and shop with a competent machanic; then you're right; prolly a horse a piece
I have done two pulling the engine out the top and now I am doing one in the car. And only because the garage I am in doesn't have enough head room to either lift the engine or the car high enough. For me, it really sucks reaching or crawling in to get things done. Definitely not a time saver for me, but I'm old and cranky.
I have done two pulling the engine out the top and now I am doing one in the car. And only because the garage I am in doesn't have enough head room to either lift the engine or the car high enough. For me, it really sucks reaching or crawling in to get things done. Definitely not a time saver for me, but I'm old and cranky.
[QUOTE=FCar2000TA;19785472]I am old and cranky too. I like the idea of being able to sit in a chair and swap the heads. I get pissed off at screws and bolts a lot. And my back hurts after swapping an intake.[/QUOTE]
Plus 1 Bro. I hate working under the cowl.
Plus 1 Bro. I hate working under the cowl.
[QUOTE=wph351;19785483]my back is the 2nd issue. My wife hearing me damning children's souls to hell upon unicorn blood soaked fairies is probably #1.
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The 4th gen cowl really slows me down. Just pulling a coil pack rail in my 99 TA takes me half an hour because of that pesky rear bolt. Of course my back is killing me at that point.
Doing the same coil pack rail in my 91 RS that is much more open takes 5 minutes. No back pain.
Pulling the engine would be my choice.
Doing the same coil pack rail in my 91 RS that is much more open takes 5 minutes. No back pain.
Pulling the engine would be my choice.
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I have done two pulling the engine out the top and now I am doing one in the car. And only because the garage I am in doesn't have enough head room to either lift the engine or the car high enough. For me, it really sucks reaching or crawling in to get things done. Definitely not a time saver for me, but I'm old and cranky.
You can't pull the motor out the top, I'm tellin on you. 
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
A good friend of mine used to work at an LS1 shop, and said he can get the motor out in 1.5 hours. So... If all I am doing is heads, is it worth it to drop the motor, or just do the swap with the motor in? I have Stage 8 locking header bolts and 1 7/8 headers.
From everything I have read, and experience with r/r on an intake, it seems like it would be about the same time.
From everything I have read, and experience with r/r on an intake, it seems like it would be about the same time.
A good friend of mine used to work at an LS1 shop, and said he can get the motor out in 1.5 hours. So... If all I am doing is heads, is it worth it to drop the motor, or just do the swap with the motor in? I have Stage 8 locking header bolts and 1 7/8 headers.
From everything I have read, and experience with r/r on an intake, it seems like it would be about the same time.
From everything I have read, and experience with r/r on an intake, it seems like it would be about the same time.
However working under the cowl sucks bad enough to make it a tough call.
**** that guy. Ive had no less then 5 motors in my car, FIVE, and have done numerous other LS swaps and would never attempt to drop an engine in 1.5 hours. At that point you really are snatching and grabbing. Dropping the engine opens new worms too, like now having to recharge the ac, bleed the brakes etc. The easiest solution is do it in the car, and take your time. Work until youve had enough and stop for the day. Start again when you feel like it.
**** that guy. Ive had no less then 5 motors in my car, FIVE, and have done numerous other LS swaps and would never attempt to drop an engine in 1.5 hours. At that point you really are snatching and grabbing. Dropping the engine opens new worms too, like now having to recharge the ac, bleed the brakes etc. The easiest solution is do it in the car, and take your time. Work until youve had enough and stop for the day. Start again when you feel like it.
I'm 2/3rds of the way (or so) through my first cylinder head R&R...I am doing it as 01ssreda4 suggests...Taking my time, and quitting when my back has had enough. I have a bad back anyway...lol. Invested 2 hours or so after work, getting the car down to nothing left, but to actually unbolt and yank the heads off...I have head studs, so it'll be a trial & error thing down the home stretch. Once all the crap that's bolted on, is out of the way, it's not too bad of a job, so far.
I didn't even consider dropping the engine out...nor would I, and I have a lift and fully equipped shop.
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Depends on the engine bay. With the GTO, engine in car is fine as there is clearance. Having seen how tight it is in an F-body......do not know how you can do or head studs in an F-body with the engine in car.
Last edited by Felix C; Dec 6, 2017 at 11:52 AM.
So as a play on his question, I want to replace my lifters this winter, along with new motor mounts and oil pan gasket. I would assume pulling the engine would be the best course for this since the k member will already be loosened for the oil pan drop.
