Short block is together, would have the complete engine together if it weren't for the summit racing oil pan and pick up tube needing a ton of modifications to work.
we degreed the cam in degree advanced from what it was last time. Also the compression went up from 11.72 to 12.06/1
engine dyno this weekend if all goes well

 

Well she is finally back to life and ready to go back in the car. Diamond engines in Hammond Louisiana machined and assembled the short block. He even ported the oil passages .seems dart blocks are better in many ways with the priority main oiling, but then leave a smaller hole to come out of at the bearing.
all clearances are set on main and rod bearings at .0025-.0027. Cmpared to before finding the mains were tight with the #4 burning a bearing at .0005 clearance, #2 and thrust at .0025(good) but ends being at .0015. Hence it lived less than 400miles.
pistons were in the hole .003 but decks were rough cut.not good for mls gaskets so we decked them .006 to pull out of hole .003.
heads were also decked .006 TO KNOCK down 1cc to 63 cc combustion chamber.
was 11.72/1 now 12.06/1 compression.
The cam is an Engine power systems (Geoff skinner) grind low lash solid roller from cam motions. 246/262@.050 .689/.672 112lsa 108 cl. Before the mishap, the cam was in on a 109.5 cl so we advanced it 2degree where it was supposed to be. Roll master chain set had it 109.5 cl straight up.
same heads as before, sps heads (Gavin Simcoe) ported 823 castings with pac1209x springs and stainless farera valves.

We engine dyno this to break it in using a fast system computer. We did set valve lash at .002 cold, ran the motor to put heat in it then checked them. Reset them to .006 hot which was all pretty close. Just easier to tell than when cold using a little thicker gauge.
anyone who thinks a sniper intake(low profile to clear fbody)dont make tq as well should look at this thing, yet it screams to 8000 rpm like it's nothing never falling off.
This combination has already been in my car and being a street car, I can tell you it is very docile and idled beautiful. Drove great. Now it should do even better with the cam advanced 2more degree. I will be posting a video to YouTube and will share that in a post as well.

hard to see the pictures on here but peak hp on pump gas is 657@7700rpm peak tq 575@5200
chp fuel from VP racing made 671@7700 same 32deg timing but added 10% fuel to map since it's an oxygenated fuel.
avg power is great though. From 4500 to 8000 rpm it made 606/522.
very broad power curve, 4800 stall and 4.10 gear it should hall the mail yet drives great. The converter does not seem loose at all until you hit the throttle hard.

 

Nice update! Bet you are super excited now

 

yes I am man, bought a bmr kmember also. Will be getting lower control arms and coil overs soon as well. Just dont want to have a rough ride

 

I am telling you the tubular K is ****. You will wish you did it first.

 

the new oil pan is supposed to clear a stock kmember. I wanted to make sure

 

Yeah but every time you go under there to work you will ask yourself - how I ever did this before??

 

which coil overs do you have now and which ones did you have that was rough?

 

I have the strano afco umi kit now. The Vikings was the kit I didn't like

 

Great to see it on the engine dyno and running strong! I agree with the tubular K member. It is so much easier to inspect and work around under the car. I am also looking into replacing my Koni yellow/vogland springs with a coil over setup soon.

 

 

you like to take turns if I recall.mine needs to ride ok and work at the track. Did the Vikings ro that? I'm thinking 350lb springs

Me too man. The power curve just keeps going so I think I'll be happy in the car.
It was the pick up tube. Would work well with a stock block but my splayed main caps didnt line up with the bracket for pick up tube.
we cut it off and mad a new one and set the depth where we he wanted it.

 

Actually, no the car doesn't really corner well at all. Mostly due to the rear axle. I'm not a road racer. It's set up for drag racing and daily driving. Here is a link, rather than hijack your thread typing everything about the Vikings that was inadequate. Short version - on a cold start, they run sort of decent, but as the car drives, they ride worse and worse. Cranking the adjusters only makes it harsher, but not better controlled. the 350 lb springs do not control the front end at all. It's floppy. More correctly, the shocks do not control the 350 lb springs. They are sold as riding ok and working at the track, but in truth they do not ride OK for longer than 3-mile trips. I believe it is due to the lack of gas charge, so the oil aerates and they lose their damping.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...co-review.html

Goes into the details of what I liked and disliked. If you plan to daily or even weekend warrior the car, I think you will end up pulling the Vikings in favor of something better.

My buddy 98_WS6_M6 worked with Menscer to set up his suspension on one of his cars which is set up for pure drag racing and getting hauled to the track. Out of curiosity, he asked Menscer what the best option was for my car - daily driver but needs to do OK at the track, and Menscer said that the kit I put on the car was easily the best choice. No hesitation. If I did anything different, I might go to rubber bushings vs solids, but more for noise than anything else.

Hope that helps

 

Yes it does. I will put my stock shocks and springs on until they prove to not work.car has always done well with them .
I ordered bmr lower a arms yesterday so atleast I have the weight savings

 

Its alive. Fought the new valve covers until I couldn't stand it anymore. They are to tall and to tight to get to anything in back. Back to stock valve covers and spacers until I find some that work better.
This time around the motor sounds much more crisp and revs faster than the last time.
K member is in but still have to install new a arms brakes and struts. I go back on the boat tomorrow so it will be next week before I do any more to it.

 

Nice build. As I'm finally getting close to being ready to finally work on my garage ornament ( after having a few life setbacks).

I keep going back and forth with NA vs Boost. I've never messed with turbo stuff and as much as I want that kind of setup a simpler NA build like you have is appealing as well. Nice numbers btw

 

thanks. It's caused some gray hair with all the head aches but when it's all finished I feel it will be a fun set up.

 

Motor is in, new tubular kmember and lower a arms. Now to run new brake lines and figure out a catch can system for crank case evacuation. I wanted a vacuum pump but honestly at the point of just taking a break from mods. I'll leave that and electric water pump for when i'm in a modding mood again.
The BMR kmember went in and lined up flawlessly, made lots of room. New Summit racing oil pan also gives lots of room for getting to the torque converter bolts. Was miserable before on my set up.

Was supposed to dyno again at EPS today but got delayed on suspension so I postponed the dyno. Car is running again and motor is very responsive. More so than before rebuilding this motor. Little bump up in compression along with advanced cam 2degree and a motor that's not to tight will do that I guess.

Will update once driving

 

Had everything done and backed the car out of shop to bleed the coolant. Reverse was gone in my transmission. How the hell do I not have reverse when it worked fine when I pulled the motor and transmission?
I called Lonnie at extreme automatic, said I broke a lug for reverse band. Put it on a crate and ship it back,he is covering shipping. Great customer service.
Will have it back some time next week.
Will update then

 

This car needs to gape nerds