motor treat right. slap a baby cam in it? Had the car for two years , gooning mostly, want more pop. 98 ws6 m6 Lt Catless 3" Lid and tune. I blew the rear so I rebuild it then added 373.

 

If it's in good working order why not

 

Let us know when you learn more English...

 

I have a 6-speed as well. Do you have a aftermarket cover for the rear? I'm old school, I hit the gears a little to hard. learning curve I guess. I'm doing suspension now and cam in the spring. I'm undecided Hot cam from ws6getting store, 224r, 228r. Street running is getting more popular with all the shows on tv. I'm looking to hang with some of the new models. Driver difference that's all.

 

Aftermarket cover for the stock rear end isn't going to squat basically.

 

sorry, I'm A little slow at the key board. I'm better at cars then keyboards. Old hotrodders still need the fix too.

 

I welded the collars for the diff. Just wanted to know if those would help a 10 bolt.

 

The T56 series don't like being slapped, I'll do it on a drag run but not on the street,
Their syncros are too soft for sidestepping them between gears.. (IMHO) They like a half double-clutch if you can do it..
(Rev match/lift out of the gear clutch in to the next.. )

I hate pulling motors, a decent engine kit is too cheap to me to put old rings back in the car..
But thats me.. Its a slippery slope though,, LOL

 

Back to the subject. Hot cam,224r, 228r. stock motor with Lt lid.

 

I went from a muncie to t-56. Its a learning curve. I'm thinking cam springs call it a weekend. See what happens, its not my dd, I will tune it and roll the dice. It's has a newish clutch and a rebuilt rear. Just trying to see what works for slim money.

 

Don't mind him, he's just a douche.

 

But yeah, I threw a decent sized cam in a 160k mile engine - if the compression is good and your oil pressure is good, run it.

 

Takes one to know one.... His first post was so hard to understand, it almost looked like one of those 1-post trolls. Glad to see that's not true here.

 

I understood it just fine.

 

I would suggest also changing the timing chain and oil pump at the very least.

 

My 2000 has 87k on it.

I just dropped in some Pac 1218s and a ws6store high lift hotcam. I didn't do a damn thing else. Even threw the factory water pump back on!

at 147k I'd do oil pump, timing chain, valve seals at the minimum. Water pump if the budget allows.

I hope to start mine up this week. Computer is coming back from pcmforless, gotta throw plugs in it and fix pcv hoses. But it's a "baby cam" that happens to have .600 lift.

 

To compliment the new cam regardless of which cam if your 98 still has the LS1 intake , that needs to be replaced to get the best results from your cam swap.

Several much better intake choices are available.

LS6 and use the current TB, nice upgrade for $300 to $400, the intake manifold gaskets should be replaced if they are ~15-20 years old in my opinion. Heavy rain can get get in and hydro lock the engine if the intake manifold gaskets don't seal well.

Dorman LS2 is also popular and gets a 90mm intake on the car. Cost $500 to $800 depending on TB used and other details.

Fast LSX 90/92 mm intake. Found used maybe $600. New probably around $850. Plus 92mm TBwhich can range from $135 to $400 depending on what you want.

Cam wise - the vendors and sponsors can make excellent suggestions and do custom cams too. I think cams in the range below work good with 3.73's I'm a M6.
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A good 224/224 is a great daily driver cam. Typically worth 35-45 whp depending on supporting mod's. Very daily driver friendly and you'll feel the power gain.

The 224/230 are too and carry the power band for more rpm.

My pet favor for stock cube LS1's is a cam like Lingenfelter's GT 1-2 that's 227/235 duration @ .050 lift - .614/.621 lift with 1.7 rocker 115 CL Great Muscle Car Sound.

Other stuff, I'd plan on doing a new timing set with the car having 147k. Replacing the oil pump could be considered too. Check the rockers carefully sometimes one or more may need to be replaced.

Definitely replace the intake manifold gaskets with new ones while into the car.
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Do the cam, it should be fine at 147k

The 10 bolt will break easy with hard clutch dumps, light wheels and slicks help a lot to absorb shock loads. Drag radials on heavy rear wheels and they break pretty easy.

I got a set of used moser axles for $100 a long time ago, maybe look around for a set and that will help a little. Welding the tubes and a diff cover may help a little.