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ASP Pulley & Rollmaster Dbl Chain = 0 Oil?

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Old 07-10-2004 | 04:25 PM
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Default ASP Pulley & Rollmaster Dbl Chain = 0 Oil?

I just got thru installing my cam, and I have zero oil pressure. When putting it all together the ASP Pulley woldn't fit with the Dbl Chain. Torqued it to 240 & the engine wouldn't turn. After searching I found a note about needing to machine the pulley. So I installed a stock pulley & it turned over fine.

My question is, did I ruin the pump by torquing the pulley bolt down? Or did I just get a bad oil ported LS6 pump? Or is there something stupid I'm over-looking?

Any ideas?

Mark
Old 07-10-2004 | 04:30 PM
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Depending on how old your pully is, it may or may not have needed to be machined. Look on the front of your pully, it the date is after 8/03 then it shouldn't have to be machined. Anything before that does need to be cut.
Old 07-10-2004 | 04:32 PM
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I was there with his install, the pulley snout was for sure too thick... it would not fit without getting machined.
Old 07-10-2004 | 05:10 PM
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As I was looking at the old pump to see what I thought, I noticed we left the o-ring off the pick-up tube. So I'm hoping that is what is wrong. I can't imagine the pump would create enough suction without that. Opinions?
Old 07-10-2004 | 05:19 PM
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We Have a winner! Yep that is your problem.

Brad
Old 07-10-2004 | 05:21 PM
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I've seen people post on here when they just pinched the o-ring and they were getting low, sometimes no oil pressure... not having it on there at all would definitely make it so you'd have no pressure I would think. I'm willing to bet on that being the problem with yours, not the oil pump itself.
Old 07-10-2004 | 05:45 PM
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Yep and make sure you installed the spacers for the double roller on the correct way. There is only one way it goes on.

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Old 07-10-2004 | 06:19 PM
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Yeah, I'm also wondering if I installed that spacer the right way. That would shut off about 3/4 of the passage. I'll know soon. The pulley is coming off now....maybe. My 3 finger puller is just about shot. Thoses threads are only good for 5 pullies, and this is # 6.

I'm going to try installing the o-ring & put it back together with the new pump. I hope, I hope, I hope......
Old 07-10-2004 | 07:44 PM
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yeah, make sure the spacer is facing the correct way (facing where the triangle points towards the passenger side). if not you will have zero oil presure. don't ask me how i know
Old 07-10-2004 | 08:32 PM
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The spacer was on right, and now so is the o-ring. We'll find out soon if them pump is any good. Thanks for the responses....
Old 07-11-2004 | 08:48 AM
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You could have test fit the pulley on the crankshaft WITHOUT the timing cover installed to see if the pulley snout was going to interfere with the front face of the oil pump and therefore require machining. Only the spacer on the oil pump output port side has to be oriented properly during installation. You should take extra care to be sure the "O" ring is sitting "square" on the pickup tube as you insert the tube into the pump and be certain it does NOT get pinched in the process. Always use a NEW "O" ring. The minimal cost of a new "O" ring is not worth the trouble of having to do the job over again.
Old 07-11-2004 | 09:47 AM
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Good idea E. If I had even considered it a problem before, I might have tried to do something. But it works fine now, so I'm moving on to tuning & tweaking to get it to run right. 40lbs of oil pressure & a nasty lope sounds great! Now all I have to do is get it to idle & get the a/f back to normal. Small problem....
Old 07-11-2004 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Depending on how old your pully is, it may or may not have needed to be machined. Look on the front of your pully, it the date is after 8/03 then it shouldn't have to be machined. Anything before that does need to be cut.

Yes i have a old school pulley and it had to be machined! I had the same problem. Your probally leaking a little oil also if you look under the car.




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