When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is the Trickflow chain dampener with adapter bracket, on an LS1 block. It's definitely over against the chain on the right side, with a gap on the left side. Is this normal? I know there are a few different dampeners out there, do they all fit like this? If the chain gets pushed out on the right side, it will advance the cam timing slightly.
It's not just because the chain is pulled tight on the right side either, still have the same issue when the chain is loose on both sides.
The dampener is definitely changing the timing. I've got a pic of the same exact thing without the dampener, and the timing dots line up exactly. The dots won't line up exactly with the dampener. Also this explains why my measured PTV clearance for exhaust was a lot more than expected, since advancing the timing will do that.
There's only one way to mount it, no adjustment possible, seems like it was manufactured way off. My ingenious solution is it's going in the trash. I might send Trickflow a link to this thread even though I bought it over 2 years ago.
There's only one way to mount it, no adjustment possible, seems like it was manufactured way off. My ingenious solution is it's going in the trash. I might send Trickflow a link to this thread even though I bought it over 2 years ago.
I think you misunderstood. Shave the part that is now rubbing the chain with a file or something similar.
Not remount it as that is obviously not possible.
A little shade tree engineering...
The mounting holes on the block are not centered from the factory. GM produced a damper for the LS6, and it's holes were off center to match the block. None of the aftermarket ones seem to employ that design, instead making theirs even. It should in no way mess with timing, however.
GM sadly stopped making their damper a while back, and finding abused one is pretty tough.
Tack weld the washers to what?? The damper is plastic.
No it's not all plastic , It's a Trick Flow Flow adapter that bolts onto the engine using a metal bracket...Slot that bracket and repair those holes with tack welded washers.
Originally Posted by patSS/00
This is the Trickflow chain dampener with adapter bracket, on an LS1 block.
Yeah, good idea but there might not be enough clearance with the cam sprocket to use washers, that's why they use those type of machine screws that don't stick up as much.
Another separate problem is, with the dampener attached you can't see the lower timing dot with the oil pump on, so that would make changing cams later more of a PITA.
Yeah, good idea but there might not be enough clearance with the cam sprocket to use washers, that's why they use those type of machine screws that don't stick up as much.
Another separate problem is, with the dampener attached you can't see the lower timing dot with the oil pump on, so that would make changing cams later more of a PITA.
I knew it would be close, A person could also slot it out and weld up the unused portion of the hole but there would be more time involved.
I don't think that's an issue,You just move the pump when changing cams.
I have this on my engine and I believe everything was good, but I'll have to look at photos.
If I ran into this, I would pull the bracket off and slot the very top 2 holes on the left side of the holes so it would then pivot clockwise on the bottom center hole. Do it until it's centered.
Hell if your running an automatic I'd just take the damn thing off and run without, millions of ls engines out there without dampers running 300k mi, all day long!!!!!!.....just my 2 cents......I'm glad I never bothered putting one on my lq9...I thought about it, long and hard, but I'm sure it will hold up without....guess I could use that $75 elsewhere,
I have a dampener from another manufacturer and it sits just like yours, been fine for a couple years now. I also questioned it once I installed mine. Someone else I know, same deal. Wonder if done that way on purpose/for a reason? because all the ones I've seen have been like this regardless of LS1 or LS6 and manufacturer of dampener. Chain dampeners are nice to have on manual transmission cars that get road raced/participate in track days. People have snapped chains on the track without dampeners. It's more of a road racing/track day thing, I'd say they are much less necessary for a car that's street driven only or automatic or drag raced but regardless it's never a bad thing to have especially for how inexpensive they are.
Edit: From the Corvetteforum:
"I get a lot of questions about the dampener rubbing the chain on the driver side. I wanted to post up here to try and answer the question for as broad of an audience as possible.
The holes in the block are not drilled on center. They are biased slightly toward the driver side which will make the clearance a little tighter or even cause light contact between the chain and the dampener. This will not hurt anything. Some blocks seem to be more obvious than others. Mine looks pretty well centered while some people have sent me pictures of the chain touching.
GM specified the holes be a little off center and I have had people measure to confirm. Perhaps GM didn't get all the holes drilled completely to spec or their specs had large tolerances? Who knows..."
"If you look at the drawing for the hole locations, they are not centered either. See the drilling template below."
"So the GM dampener design has offset bolt locations to reverse match the non-symmetric offset holes in the block. Case of two wrongs making a right! Maybe GM had to space the holes non symmetric to not interfere with a cavity in the block."
A few ideas. First try loosening the bolts for the mounting bracket and pushing it as far left as it can go. If that doesn't move over far enough..
-Next call trick flow, see if they are aware of this and have a simple solution.
- If not, slot 2 holes in the mounting bracket. The left side and the middle hole, do not slot the right upper hole.
Lightyly do both of them at the 4-5 oclock position. That will allow the damper to pivot over left/up and butt up against the edge of the lightly slotted hole. Should stay in place no problem.
-If you don't like that idea lightly slot all 3 at the 3 oclock position using the same size drill bit as the hole already is to keep from opening up the holes and move it to the left.
-And if you don't like either of those take it off and run it like so many other blocks are that are doing just fine.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 09-10-2019 at 01:22 PM.
08-30-2019, 02:19 PM
chain dampener not centered 
