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I assume he means the mod to provide more oil to the rear thrust surface.
Photo attached. It's a small chamfer at the parting line done with a small fine tooth file.
I did it to mine because I did have a thrust failure with the Clevite H bearings.
I'm now using King bearings, but did the mod just to be sure.
I have read over on the Bullet that the ACL is a better design, maybe it is.
I assume he means the mod to provide more oil to the rear thrust surface.
Photo attached. It's a small chamfer at the parting line done with a small fine tooth file.
I did it to mine because I did have a thrust failure with the Clevite H bearings.
I'm now using King bearings, but did the mod just to be sure.
I have read over on the Bullet that the ACL is a better design, maybe it is.
Good to hear that those king bearings are holding up. I was skeptical when I first heard of them because I had always heard of everyone using clevite.
King bearings are great bearings. Made in Israel. Anything in the world metal-wise that comes from Israel is going to be top shelf. Some of the greatest metal workers on earth go to Israel for training. Go price a knife made in Israel. Superb stuff. Now concerning the thrust bearing mod, it’s not necessary if the thrust clearance is setup correctly. Of all of the LS engines I’ve ever built, I’ve yet to have my thrust numbers where I want them (auto trans is different from a manual clearance for me) including King, Clevite, and GM bearings, without having to cut the thrust bearings or polish the thrust surface of the crank. I’ve used them all, and the clearances always have to be opened up. Too tight a number and you’ll run into problems every time. Most folks throw bearings in a mild engine build without any setup whatsoever ever and it’s fine. And then there’s the performance side of this, where we expect way more out of a product than it was designed for, excluding race bearings of course, with no setup time or measurements, and problems pop up. Bearings get the blame every time, when it is the installers responsibility to check numbers, which requires a lot of time, 3 or 4 mockups at minimum, and specialized tools, which cost money, even at Harbor Freight.
Ok. I used the acl bearings. This is what I noticed, the clevite has three little half *** divots on the rear thrust side and two half *** divots on the front. Looks kinda cast into the bearing I guess. The ACL bearings not only look and feel better in every way, they have three nicely machined, larger slots on the rear AND the front. And I’m referring to each bearing half so there is 6 slots per side. I set the thrust bearing in place by doing the smack the crank procedure with the cap very lightly torqued and then the thrust checks in around .004-.005 with my dial indicator. When I mocked it all up dry, the thrust was very promising feeling. It had a nice little thud back and forth. I should be golden.
Thanks Ron for providing the pic. Yes, that is the mod I was referring to. Kfx,basically it's providing a path for oil to channel from the main feed to the rear thrust surface. You're end play is on the tighter side. Upper end of spec is .008" (I previously stated .011" which is SBC). With an auto trans, the converter gets pushed towards the motor (due to converter charge pressure) and therefore crank is pushed against rear thrust surface. Check out at 2:40 for more detail on mod.
Thanks Ron for providing the pic. Yes, that is the mod I was referring to. Kfx,basically it's providing a path for oil to channel from the main feed to the rear thrust surface. You're end play is on the tighter side. Upper end of spec is .008" (I previously stated .011" which is SBC). With an auto trans, the converter gets pushed towards the motor (due to converter charge pressure) and therefore crank is pushed against rear thrust surface. Check out at 2:40 for more detail on mod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x34rdjkOuaU
Maybe Che70 will chime in with his target clearance for LS auto, 800whp at 7500rpm, and at what converter charge pressure.
well according to factory specs and everything else I’ve found, .0015-.0078 is the range. I like it to be in the middle, pretty much where I’m at. That’s 1.5 thousandths to 7.8 thousandths. And 5 thousandths is right in the middle. I should have checked that dry but I’d be willing to bet that .001 could be added due to the thick Lucas assembly lube I used. Here’s a thread on it also which falls in line with what I just wrote.... https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...clearance.html
edit: I only read the first couple posts initially before my above post. Then after reading post 5 it pretty much says the exact same thing I was thinking. Lol.
Thanks Ron for providing the pic. Yes, that is the mod I was referring to. Kfx,basically it's providing a path for oil to channel from the main feed to the rear thrust surface. You're end play is on the tighter side. Upper end of spec is .008" (I previously stated .011" which is SBC). With an auto trans, the converter gets pushed towards the motor (due to converter charge pressure) and therefore crank is pushed against rear thrust surface. Check out at 2:40 for more detail on mod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x34rdjkOuaU
Maybe Che70 will chime in with his target clearance for LS auto, 800whp at 7500rpm, and at what converter charge pressure.
I doubt it...….
Here is a quality photo of the Kings. Coated they call XPC.
Top is the STDX with additional clearance.
Bottom is the STD XPC coated bearing.
not worth it to me. I think what I have will be fine. Too late anyways. Bottom end is buttoned you and if all goes well the motor will be in the car tomorrow
These are their SI series from King. Thats what we offer in our complete rebuild kits.
Notice the machined gap at the ends. In theory it could provide the same oiling that a bearing mod could.
We havent had an issue yet in over 100 sets sold with our kits and some are pushed pretty hard. Obviously cannot use on aftermarket cranks.
Still a smokin value and ive used them on LS and Hemis and a few SBC over the years and will bw using them on my own stuff and the menagerie of engines im still huffin and puffin on.
not worth it to me. I think what I have will be fine. Too late anyways. Bottom end is buttoned you and if all goes well the motor will be in the car tomorrow
We got a bit off topic for ya. But still a good discussion. We look forward to hearing “it fired right up and all is well”
These are their SI series from King. Thats what we offer in our complete rebuild kits.
Notice the machined gap at the ends. In theory it could provide the same oiling that a bearing mod could.
We havent had an issue yet in over 100 sets sold with our kits and some are pushed pretty hard. Obviously cannot use on aftermarket cranks.
Still a smokin value and ive used them on LS and Hemis and a few SBC over the years and will bw using them on my own stuff and the menagerie of engines im still huffin and puffin on.
Interesting how the oil grooves are diff from the XP series. Stock bearings are diff still.
I laughed... that sounds great man and really think I will enjoy the 5.3LS in mine. Whenever that happens.... GTO gauges look cool almost fluid filled. Only GTO I was ever in was a old back in the day had a 06 GTO. But at the time all he had dash wise was a turned somehow made a light come on the dash to tell you when to shift for performance instead of what the computer would say. If this makes sense to you as it was back in 2006 so can’t remember if I’m saying that right...
as I’ve mentioned I sent the stall off and had it restalled to 3600. It’ll stall 3000 on the foot brake whereas before it would only stall 2200ish on the brake. It was a 3200 stall before. So that’s good, I still can build any boost on the foot brake. Maybe I need to figure out where the timing is and regard it a little there and I’ll be able to give it more throttle angle. Ideas welcome.
this morning I went for a spin. Didn’t really like the polyurethane motor mounts I put in, but either they are loosening up (maybe with engine heat?) or I’m getting used to it. I may end up going back to a new set of stockers...I want the car like stock.
the 5.3 idles well. Doesn’t seem to lope any more than the 5.7 did, which is surprising. Got had a lower, deeper tone and “sounds” like it has more power. Which is odd because I went with a smaller engine, and less compression. Same cam, heads. It makes about 2lbs more boost than it did. My tune is the same except I changed the engine size in the computer to 5.3, which scales the tune down (I don’t know what all exactly it changes). I added one more degree of timing vs what I had for the 5.7 (less compression so it should be ok, right?) and I messed with cruise and idle fueling. I did make a few 1st gear and 2nd gear hits and it feels as strong, maybe a touch stronger than the 5.7. Maybe the extra boost, or the fact I haven’t drove it in months maybe be contributing factors lol.
I had a scare this morning. I finished up late last night. Forgot to tighten the hose clamp on the bottom radiator hose. Went around the block. Drove back up in the driveway and that same tone I heard with low oil pressure starting going off. Looking up and it said coolant temp high. ****. It spit all the water out on my driveway. Saw about 258 degrees. Ugh. I was stressing until I got coolant back in it. All seems well now.
02-13-2020, 03:19 PM
