As for your scare I know what you mean when I had my LT1 engine got the blower and everything hooked up and had to to turn the top radiator outlet on the water pump for it to clear. At 140mph down the highway about 1/4 mile that hose blows off and by the time I slow down heads got warped and engine was covered in antifreeze.

 

it actually cranked up like it had been running. Then it died. I forgot to plug in the map sensor. Boy I’m batting 1000 I tell ya. I should not work on cars that late. Pulling it out, yea, but putting one in when you are tired is a bad idea. Obviously. Lol.

 

same bearings I have. Part number cr807SI
had that gap. I noticed it and thought something was wrong. But then I realized it would hurt anything. Turns out it was intentional. And it survived a thrashing this evening.

 

I thought you said you used ACL bearings

 

damnit. You are right. I used acl on the mains, and king on the rods. I wasn’t paying attention lol. But my acl bearings had that same cut in the ends and had more lube grooves. On both thrust sides.

 

👍 Cool

 

The engine sounds good and looks like it wants to get up and go when you put your foot in it. Glad you got it back up and running.

 

thanks! And thanks for all your help. It’s greatly appreciated.

once I get things lined out on it and upgrade my fuel system, I’m gonna turn it up and see what it can do. Maybe you could help me out on a fuel pressure regulator for a return style system that’s boost referenced. I’d like something reliable and compact. I do t want to risk having issues or leaks on road trips. Aeromotive is my brand of choice, but if there’s something else that can save me money and not sacrifice reliability, I’m all ears.

 

Congratulations...nice to see your hard work pay off.

 

You can't go wrong with Aeromotive for an FPR. The AEI-13129 is compact and has the specs your looking for. It's also available as a kit with fittings and a gauge AEI-13130.

 

AEI-13101 would be better no? Bigger inlet and outlet incase he wants to future proof?

 

Replying to your driving video. You said the poly motor mounts made a noticeable shake or vibration? Been reading for awhile and everyone feels different or described positive or negative over the stock rubber and the poly. For a weekend warrior like mine not sure what to go with as still collecting parts.

 

Well, I cant comment just yet.My buddy told me this morning that on his GTO ( same mounts i have ) it took a little drive time to "break them in". I did notice after driving around for a while yesterday, they seemed to loosen up some. They were real loud and vibratey but seemed to calm down a bit (revshift green motor mounts) It even made a droning sound at first when the converter locked up. I wanted to turn around and go pull them out right then lol. Maybe the engine heat softened them up as i drove.

 

Okay thanks man post back up after you put some miles on them.

 

will do!

 

btw. I saw you have a thread on 5.7 vs 5.3 etc.

did this thread help you out? The 5.3 really don’t sound much different than my 5.7. The deeper tone I have now (just a little bit) is the lesser compression I have now. The cam doesn’t chop any more than it did. It pull the same vacuum at idle as the 5.7. Seems to be just as fast. I’m not wishing ida went back with a 5.7 either. My fuel consumption seems a little less too

 

Yes, thought you posted in there too... maybe not.. I have learned a lot and was against the 5.3 as only had a LT1 Z28 and always felt they sounded better then the LS1. Never was thrilled about the opti and not getting into a discussion about that other then had one act up and another hose blew off at 140mph and it was toasted. So had a Delteq which I loved and long story short my post tells the rest.

But I have learned a lot from your post and have been enjoying it. Others 5.3 builds as well. Now that yours sounds great and some others on here the sound doesn’t worry me anymore. To me it’s just a better setup starting from scratch all over again. I have never driven a turbo car and a lot more cost and work but really neat regardless. But still think I will do a procharger this time around instead of a V-1 strim. Just wish head units were as cheap as turbos.. Used Vortech I bought back in 2000 still cost me $1100.00 and was a head unit, Bracket, Pulley, belt, oil feed line, metal throttlebody pipe, couplers and stock plastic BOV. Had a buddy make me a metal pipe with a BOV flange, used eclipse BOV then bought a Chinese knock off. Just looking to hit the 600rwhp mark with a auto and will just be a in town nice weather weekend warrior. So not tearing into the motor and don’t know how to set valves well enough, install pistons, rods and all the other goodies. Don’t have all the engine tools of course either. Still waiting on a buddy to decide if he is ever going to sell me one of his 90,000 mile 5.3 engines.

 

The tone difference is more akin to smaller cid with same cam. Just like if you put the same cam in a 4.8 5.3 6.0 for trucks sakes they will all sound different with the 4.8 sounding the most aggressive.
A 5.7 will make more power than a 5.3l in nearly any form. Boosted or na. If you have a choice always go larger. It will make more power with less effort in any application.

 

"but.....but......but......that 4" stroke won't last compared to a 3.622 stroke under boost...."

Love the internet.

 

You have a 383 i take it? how does it run? i READ where they just dont gain really much, if any hp...but gain tq.

HOWEVER, in my experience, with an old SBC, I ran my car with a 350 bottom end...same heads, cam, intake....everything. Ran 12.0@117....then I put a stoker kit in it, yea a bout another point of compression...but everything else the same.....11.47@122-123
that was back in 98-99 so dont laugh at those times. lol