Traction? What's that?

 

Here's the final PCV configuration. Am I correct that I do NOT need an inline PCV when using the latest LS6 valley cover?




I cut the barb off just past the threads and put the nut on with red Loctite.

 

Sounds great! Still stock gears? And what exhaust are you running?

 

Yes, you are correct. The LS6 cover has an integrated PCV, so you do not need one in line.

 

Yes, stock gears. At some point I plan to install 3.90s and a Detroit TrueTrac.

Kooks headers and Borla catback with cutout.

 

The two catch cans are un neccesary

Since you're using the LS6 valley cover block off your valve covers. Except for one fresh air inlet explained below

Run the valley cover into the catch can and the line out of the catch into the intake manifold. (like you have it already)

Run one hose with no catch or anything from your intake tube into the passenger or driver valve cover. OEM setup was to run the fresh air into the passenger valve cover

You have one catch can correct. The one between the valley and the intake. The other is useless. Take it out and run just a hose from intake tube to valve cover. It's just the air inlet side to the engine, it only pulls filtered air from the intake tube. Nothing to catch there.


Car sounds nasty and spinning is fun as hell, but get some real tires on it before it's wrapped around a pole lol. I love sliding all over as much as anyone, but too many close calls happen with power and street tires. Can't wait to see what it does on the dyno, I have high hopes for ya.

 

I've read that the PCV system can be overcome at WOT. When that happens, the fresh air side of the PCV will reverse and begin pushing air into the intake bellows rather than drawing. That's the purpose of this 2nd can. What I have done was engineered in another thread here on the forum. Is it need? I don't know. Should the the above ever happen, I'm covered.

 

Catch Can Routing

 

It's overkill, but hey I'm all about overkill usually myself so what can I say

 

I'm not a happy camper. I was under the car doing the clutch master cylinder drill mod. I found a tiny leak on the far back, bottom corner of the driver's side head, right below the water port, and on top of a boss sticking out of the block. Oddly, I've seen nothing on the floor. I'm going to put in AC Delco 10-108 Coolant Tablets and install ARP head bolts one at a time. What are my chances for success? I've seen where many recommend using these tablets after every cooling system flush. I used them when I built my truck's 6.0. I also sprayed the GM MLS gaskets with Permatex Copper spray, but was advised not to on these Cometics.

It's so aggravating. I was meticulous in my preparation. I'm hoping the ARP bolts will give me a little better clamping force, along with the coolant tablets.

 

i would verify it isnt a rear steam port before you fo full panic mode

 

That would certainly be nice. I guess it could be running along the gasket line from up above. I'll probably pull the intake this evening.

 

Since the motor has gone through several heat cycles, I'd pull the driver side valve cover and in the correct order ensure each head bolt still exhibits the proper torque spec.

My guess is it's something along the lines of a steam port as mentioned or a bolt that loosened up, etc. Since you had the heads milled and it sounds like you did a thorough job cleaning the block, you have good mating surfaces which is key.

I've always installed the Cometics .040's dry per Cometic's instruction and I've never had a leak even when reusing them. I've always used stock head bolts. Given that and your good mating surfaces I'm thinking it's something dumb.

 

If nothing else, thanks for the encouragement!

"Check for proper torque." That's the problem with factory head bolts. You can't. ARP bolts and torque to 75 ft/lb. Done. I ordered them last night.

On the other hand, I'm going to pull my intake, 15 minute job, and replace a leaking steam pipe seal tonight!

 

I second the crossover tube seals. I'd bet a solid dollar you reused to old o rings/seals lol.

I personally hate putting sealer tabs or goo in anything.I get why they can be a necessary evil at times though.

I would doubt you have a head gasket leak but doing the ARP's sounds like a good plan

Today's gaskets don't need any spray though, it's actually recommended to not use it on all LS gaskets now, that I'm aware of anyway. I've never used it on any LS head gasket. Or really any other and I do headgaskets on all sorts of makes and models. Used it on one particular situation though, late 90's dodge neons. They had a bad issue with puking the gaskets and we did everything we could to help those. So that was the only application I've used a spray.

 

Well, it wasn't a steam pipe seal.................................it was a LOOSE HOSE CLAMP!!! I couldn't be more relieved and greatful. The rear steam pipe is new with new seals, but the clamp on the new hose had started leaking. I tightened it up and added a second clamp.





While I was in there I made a proper bracket to hold the MAP sensor down.

 

While I'm celebrating, here's a cold start video. Quadruple the volume and that's what it sounds like in person!

 

lets hear it warmed up!

 

The next dry day we have I need to get it out and log it again. It only has the second revision of the tune in it. After my first log, I found out that neither of my O2 sensors were working correctly and the car never went into closed loop. I removed the extensions and installed Bosch 13111s, as recommended by PatG. The little bit that I've had it running, it looks like they're working now.

 

LOL damn I lost a dollar. I betted that because it's so easy to forget to order those seals and just reuse them and hope for the best lol

Glad it was an easy fix!