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hi,
So I am in the process for a turbo setup on my 2002 LQ9 6.0 motor in my 2006 Silverado 2500 HD. heres what i have in it now:
Trick Flow 30602003 Cam - 228/230, .585 lift, 112 LS
Trick Flow 21407400 Chromoly Pushrods - 7.4in x 5/16
Comp 26918-16 Valve Springs - 372lb/in, up to 8000 rpm
Stock 317 heads
80mm BBK Throttle body
36# fuel injectors
walbro 455 pump
Volant cold air intake
Pacesetter long tube headers 1 3/4
borla proxs true dual muffler
dual electric fan mod
dual electric cutouts
ngk performance wires
Maybe some more smalls I can’t think of
So what i need help with is deciding on a torquey cam model, and what model turbo to go with (i want a reliable ball bearing turbo, quick spooling). i dont know much about turbo and cam setups so thats why im asking on input.
- as far as my truck goes its a large lifted truck on heavy 35s and 24x14 wheels tires, it has 4.10 gears, so i want some lower end torque for digs, im only looking to make about 600 hp to the wheels RELIABLY i will be driving this truck across country here and there.
so far im planning on upgrading to:
- 1000cc injectors
- e85 safe 450lph pump
- LS9 headgaskets
- ARP head studs
- _____ CAM type?
- _____ turbo type?
- boost gauge
- oil psi gauge
- AFR gauge
- do i need new lifters?
The cam you have isn't a terrible boost cam depending on the turbo. You could go smaller but if it drives fine now I'd leave it alone and see how it is with the turbo. Assume you know your long tubes go away. What turbo kit hotside are you going to use? Something in the 7675 range would work well for your goals. Could go a little smaller and max out the turbo and get more low-end but also depends on your redline.
The cam you have isn't a terrible boost cam depending on the turbo. You could go smaller but if it drives fine now I'd leave it alone and see how it is with the turbo. Assume you know your long tubes go away. What turbo kit hotside are you going to use? Something in the 7675 range would work well for your goals. Could go a little smaller and max out the turbo and get more low-end but also depends on your redline.
well my builder said that 76mm should be the smallest I use. He recommended an 80mm, but between the two sizes I can’t decide what brand to go with. I’m comfortable spending up to $2500 on a turbo that will do the job and hopefully not give me issues for a while to come. He will be building me an entire exhaust setup for it 4” down all the way back. And as far as the cam the only reason I wanted to change it up is because this cam feels like it gives me no bottom end torque. My redline was set at 6000 rpm from my tune but I think it could be increased given I have aftermarket springs and pushrods?
For your goals you do NOT need an 80mm turbo. Totally unnecessary for 600whp. You can set redline to 6500 if you wanted. If you want bottom end get a turbo that is intentionally small so it lights off quick. Do you have a stall in the truck? That'll also make it snappier and get it into the power and quicker.
I agree with not wanting a stall if towing at all! it does suck unless you tune the converter to lockup at very low speeds, like in 2nd gear.
But for me 4.10 gears is not low enough with a 35" tire with stock stall ESPECIALLY with the cam you have selected, and I wouldn't even wanna attempt towing anything heavy. I would either stick with the stock cam or one or the stage 1's to get as much power off idle you can.
the Summit 8718 for the most low end (almost a stock cam though)
or Summit 8719 for a little more power
Thats just my suggestion because I've had heavy vehicles with big cams before and it SUCKS without gears. 4.10's are ok for stock size tires, even 4.56 with stock tires in a heavy 3/4 ton. With 35's id be looking at 4.88's at minimum probably 5.13's to offset the weight.
Spider is right on the money. A 7875 will be in boost almost instant. Also VS is a great brand. I use one on my car and I have actually used a couple of their bigger turbos on a couple of LB7, and LBZ diesel trucks. Also great customer service.
You do need to decide who's hotside piping you are going to be using. It is a few good brands out there, or we can name some if need be.
I also would look into some alittle larger gear, but build the kit first and see if you are happy.
P.s. if your racing from a dig and want to put really put the power down. Those AMP tires are not the stickiest thing.
Billet 7875s (gen 1) are popping up everywhere without the VS name on them for ~$250 shipped.
They are probably THE best bang/buck turbocharger on the market anywhere.
Billet 7875s (gen 1) are popping up everywhere without the VS name on them for ~$250 shipped.
They are probably THE best bang/buck turbocharger on the market anywhere.
Good to know. When I'm ready to step up from by 7665 I may have to test 1 of those out.
Good to know. When I'm ready to step up from by 7665 I may have to test 1 of those out.
I have 1 now. They look identical to a gen 1 7875 with a billet version of that cast wheel (not the 11-blade VS Gen 1 billet wheel).
I can't find a single difference other than the compressor wheel. The bearing assembly is the same.
I have 1 now. They look identical to a gen 1 7875 with a billet version of that cast wheel (not the 11-blade VS Gen 1 billet wheel).
I can't find a single difference other than the compressor wheel. The bearing assembly is the same.
OP, when it comes to cams for trucks we like closing the intake valve at about 40* ABDC. Closing the intake valve earlier builds torque and compression down low. The Trickflow cam you have closes the intake at 46* ABDC. We would recommend the stage 1 high lift SUM-8719 for your combo. The specs on this are .550/.550, 209/217, 112+1. The IVC event on this is 36* ABDC. It will have that off-idle torque you’re looking for. It will also have a strong mid-range and top-end. With your Comp beehives, it will pull strongly past 6500 rpm. With the -10 overlap, it will have good driveability and work well with boost.
Another option if this cam seems a little tame for you is the stage 2 high lift SUM-8720. Specs on this are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2. This would move the intake closing point to 39* ABDC. It has -1 overlap and works well with boost. We have a rather humorous review on this that offers qualities of it. Some quotes from said review. "If you found this cam because of its similarity to a more expensive “name brand” turbo 4.8 cam, congrats." "Sure it’s probably good in a truck, but this guy paired with a turbo will punish you and your precious vehicle with reckless abandon." "With some backyard tuning, I’ve hurled a 3700 lb 4.8 car down the track cutting a 10.3 @ 133 with a 1.57 60’." "Prepare to crush that pesky big block Chevelle at the track. You know the guy... chrome distributor, skinnies up front, every bolt-on in the catalog." "This baby is tame on the streets, idles with a lope that won’t get you kicked out of the country club." That gives you an idea of the review. You can see the full "the sauce" review of the cam here.
To help with the install we have a cam swap kit. That is part number CMB-09-0029. This includes the timing cover gasket, water pump gaskets, oil pump o-rings, LS2 timing chain, valve cover gaskets, and harmonic balancer bolt.
Thank you for your feedback G Atsma. To the eye, the 8720 appears similar to the hot cam. The valve timing at .050 is the same as the hot cam and our own SUM-8701, but seat timing and the lobe profiles are different from anything else on the market. It's of our design and manufactured to our specs. The manufacturing process of our Pro LS cams can be viewed here.
01-17-2020, 11:54 PM
LQ9 turbo, cam setup help please 
